The "I'm painting a Captain America Shield" thread
- Thread starter GeneralFROSTY
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seekingsummits
New Member
For me, I found that Acetone was good for stripping paint but for actually wiping the shield down prior to painting etc, Lacquer Thinner worked better because it didnt leave streaking that the acetone can do. If you dont have any scratches or blems youre trying to remove, no real need to hit with a scotchbrite pad, just wipe the surface you are ready to paint good, give it a few min to flash off and then if need be hit with a microfiber towel or something to knock any settling dust etc off. After painting mine no less than 4 times, I found it best to keep a scrap of aluminum sheeting from Lowes handy and I would hit that first with my paint to make sure it was flowing and leveling well and then if all looked good on the test, move right into the shield
Looks pretty dark. How heavy did you go?
Krush
New Member
I did 4 coats, but I don't think I understood what a light coat was and went too heavy on each of them. I'm guessing my goal was supposed to be get all the metal covered after the 4 coats, not cover it after each coat?
This is the Duplicolor Metalcast Blue spray paint by the way.
The goal is to still see the metal shine through. You're not looking fir a solid blue or red, but rather translucent. Personally I prefer 1 heavy coat with the duplicolor
Krush
New Member
I had to strip all the paint off anyways i scratch the metal, so i had to fix that, so i'm giving it another go
drakeprimeone
Well-Known Member
Try using a sharpie marker in blue or red to touch it up before you take an acetone dipped Q tip to it
seekingsummits
New Member
I had some good luck with a blue sharpie for cleaning up small issues (not the dark blue one but there is a slightly lighter blue). I didnt have a lot of luck with the red sharpies but that could related to the duplicolor I used and how much/little. For the red though I did have good luck with decanting the can, addling a little lacquer thinner and then using a refillable paint pen I bought on ebay. I used an exacto knife to trim the tip so it was even a little sharper than what it was out of the box. worked great for touching up grooves and the edge, especially if you do a little light wet sanding after (I used a 3m 3000 grit paper from the auto parts store).
seekingsummits
New Member
Finally got my shield done (or at least mostly as I may still clear the back). Wanted to say thanks for all the folks I badgered on here and who helped me out, especially Valor after getting me a new star after I scratched mine and got it to me by the weekend so I could have it for C2E2. Also got a lot of good stuff from drakeprimone and Kevin Gossett. Here is how everything ended up
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Turned out great!
seekingsummits
New Member
Actually thats a great point. I kinda forgot about that but would also like to know where to get the rivet heads. Cant imagine folks just started cutting an sanding regular rivets.
JD
Master Member
I'm going to try Fastenal - there are two location near me. Good luck.
I did pick up a rivet gun at Harbor Freight for $5, not sure if the button head's will work with it.
lovelyandy
Well-Known Member
ive got a slightly similar trouble, but not as bad. im bought some syringes off ebay and i plan to squirt some JB weld intot he gap. maybe.
also in some places its squeezed out of the sides so im going to very carefully try and scrape and pick it off. then maybe mask the star up and give it a light coat of blue to cover any bad bits.
luckily, i decided long ago that i was doing a battle damaged shield so i'm going to chalk an awful lot of my mess down to baddies.
also in some places its squeezed out of the sides so im going to very carefully try and scrape and pick it off. then maybe mask the star up and give it a light coat of blue to cover any bad bits.
luckily, i decided long ago that i was doing a battle damaged shield so i'm going to chalk an awful lot of my mess down to baddies.
seekingsummits
New Member
I think I may have to start over. I ordered some very strong neodymium magnets from a company called K&J Magnetics (part #s D93-N52, and DC4-N52). I used a smaller star outline (1/2 inside of the size of your aluminum star per Valor) and I placed my JB Weld just into that star footprint. I also cleared off just a q tip size down to metal about an inch and a half back from the star points and put a small dab there and then I used a toothpick and put the smallest amount just at the points (this may not be needed by I wanted to do so). THen I used the magnets (with each one inside a piece of cut off latex glove finger which helped avoid any scratches to the surface) and let the whole thing sit for 24 hrs. Even taking this much care, I still got squeeze out so I wiped it up and then masked around the whole star to catch any more squeeze out which it continued to do little by little over the course of maybe 90 min. At that point I peeled the tape off so it wouldnt get stuck. By morning it was almost perfect. There were 2 tiny bits of squeeze out by the point but a little 2000 grit wet sanding took it right off and didnt cut through my clear coat so then I just polished out those scratches. One think I didnt do and would next time is put a small bit of tape on the back of the star to cover the pinhole in the center as I did get JB weld squeeze out through that hole but was able to hit it lightly with a wood working chisel and then polish and you cant tell it was ever there. I think putting the star on for me brought the most panic for me but if youre careful (and you dont let those extremely strong magnets slam into each other) itll work out better next go around especially if you get the star bent really well first of all.
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seekingsummits
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