The "I'm painting a Captain America Shield" thread

[Rodimus]

I finally got my blank and cant wait to start. If I use Duplicolor, do I want the Metal cast blue and red? Or is there another type in that brand?

 

[drakeprimeone]

Those are the two you want

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[IamJAd]

Has anyone ever had a blank made that has the star carved into the blank? I believe that would be the most authentic replica.

 

[Kevin Gossett]

Chris has done it himself

 

[Rodimus]

Thank you

 

[jax]

Got my blank and Star....wish me luck.

 

[batmanrz]

Good luck! It's so exciting to see all this great work here

 

[Rodimus]

Good luck, jax! Im waiting on a star and brackets from Valor. I want to get it started but I should probably wait for those.

 

[Valor]

Good luck, jax! Im waiting on a star and brackets from Valor. I want to get it started but I should probably wait for those.

Don;t wait for me. Get painting ... brackets and star will be a while yet, and you may need to start over on painting a time or two – I swear everyone does

Good luck on your project!

 

[drakeprimeone]

I agree with valor. Painting and clearcoat going to take 3 or 4 days on its own assuming you don't start over. just make sure you leave a bare spot so you can JB Weld your star down.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[reddtiger]

So after lightly reading through this whole thread in preparation for painting mine, I decided I didn't want to put that glossy shiny finish on like most people are doing. Now don't get me wrong the shiny looks cool, but not very screen accurate to me. After seeing winter soldier again and getting some good looks at the shield, that's when I decided to go not shiny.
I've heard warnings about what happens to the bare aluminum after a while if not coated, so what will protect the shield and keep the fresh metal look? Also has anyone considered brushing the paint after your done so it's not so smooth and "perfect"? So it has that brushed metal look but more pronounced and on top. I think thats what I want to do but I want to know if anyone has tried it and what to do and not do? As soon as I get my blank I'll check in and get your advice before diving in. Thanks.

 

[Kevin Gossett]

If you're using the anodized paints, you still get the spun finish showing through since they're more or less transparent. No need to brush the paint.

 

[DFanatic]

I've heard warnings about what happens to the bare aluminum after a while if not coated, so what will protect the shield and keep the fresh metal look?

Good question. I have been wondering about that as well because I have seen shields where the unpainted part in front looks very shinny and reflective while in others, not so much. Does coating reduces the shine of the metal? Also, are you guys coating the back of the shield as well?

 

[Rodimus]

I agree with valor. Painting and clearcoat going to take 3 or 4 days on its own assuming you don't start over. just make sure you leave a bare spot so you can JB Weld your star down.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Making sure the star attaches to bare metal is the reason I was waiting. I thought I would trace the star onto some material and then spray over it to keep a clean surface for the actual star. Do you guys have a different method for that? Maybe I'm trying to be TOO careful and should just go for it. But after reading everyone's experiences, I thought this would be best. I'm open to suggestions. I could do the red rings first....

 

[dontfeedmyego]

As in the entire star shape? or just a blank spot in the middle?

I agree with valor. Painting and clearcoat going to take 3 or 4 days on its own assuming you don't start over. just make sure you leave a bare spot so you can JB Weld your star down.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[peter74]

Hi guys, I tried to read (translate) all the pages of this thread very interesting, but I have not yet figured out where to recover a rough shield, is there anyone of you give me some contact?

 

[Rodimus]

As in the entire star shape? or just a blank spot in the middle?

I have seen photos of some shields with the entire star shape left blank in the middle of the blue circle. That is what i'm going for. I think you want as much bare surface as possible to ensure that the star doesn't peel off. I'm no expert , so this is just my opinion. Valor and these guys probably have a better idea , and I would listen to them because they are the experts.

 

[Chris Fields]

It honestly doesn't matter too much, I've glued down stars to fully painted shields with no problems. I usually leave a small square free of paint though just in case. The epoxies usually melt the paint any way and blend it in to the epoxy mix.

 

[Rodimus]

It honestly doesn't matter too much, I've glued down stars to fully painted shields with no problems. I usually leave a small square free of paint though just in case. The epoxies usually melt the paint any way and blend it in to the epoxy mix.

could you just use acetone in some areas after painting to make it a metal to metal contact?

 

[spiderfan11]

It honestly doesn't matter too much, I've glued down stars to fully painted shields with no problems. I usually leave a small square free of paint though just in case. The epoxies usually melt the paint any way and blend it in to the epoxy mix.

I'm more in agreement with this than what I see some others do. What I actually do is a square of tape in the center and a thin line of the same tape I use for the rings for each point of the star. It ends up looking like an asterisk. Then the glue has at least a small track down the cent of each point and I don't have to mess around with taping out the exact star shape.