The "I'm painting a Captain America Shield" thread

[Chris92]

You guys are right. I'm sorry, i forgot about the issues Marvel has with shield replicas.

Why exactly are they trying to stop people making replicas? I read through the thread, but I didn't see any specific reasons, and it's late, so if I just missed it I apologize... In spite of MARVEL, is accuratemetalspinning.com still making spun aluminum shields if requested?

 

[BoogieBear]

You guys are right. I'm sorry, i forgot about the issues Marvel has with shield replicas.

I find it kind of ironic that Marvel has been busting balls over replica shields but the only officially licensed shield (other than the crappy toy plastic ones) was announced 3 years ago and still hasn't made it into production. If efx had actually put their Avengers shield out there for purchase I could see Marvel griping about lost sales, copyright infringement, etc.
But ah well, the bottom line is that it IS their property to do with as they please.

 

[Doc Spengler]

I am surprised they have such a problem with the blanks being sold. It'd make more sense if they were just going after people mass producing finished shields but yeah, it is their intellectual property to protect and stepping on their toes is the last thing anybody wants.

 

[oldsaggypants]

I PMed him all the info (what you mentioned) he needs. We really should stop bringing up this (among other) company openly in the threads. There's been too much interfering in our hobby lately.

thanKs guys. really appreciate that. since the crack down Ebay has really become sparse. i tried checking out accurate metal spinnings on what appeared to be their website before i posted but looks like you cant even get on that. bring in the UK really seems to be causing a problem. but the feelers out to another 5 companies in my area last night so we'll see if they have the courtesy to get back to me first.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[cap06]

It cost me a bomb to get one shipped over to the uk but it was worth it. I also dont get what the problem is with individuals making a single shield for themselves. But anyway, whatevs. Also ive just finished the paint job on my shield and I am planning to go for the battle damaged look. Whilst I am happy with the paint job is there any way I can get he metal grain to come through a tad more without wetsanding? (Which I have heard mixed reviews and results with) any help is appreciated. Thanks guys. And a public thankyou to all you guys who have contributed with this thread. And to valor for the star. 'Tis a thing of beauty

 

[uncanny]

I made two shields last year--one for me & one for my brother for his birthday. Used Metalcast with a Krylon Satin finish. They turned out wonderfully, and ever since, I've been interested in making a glossy shield for myself. Along the way, I've accumulated some requests from friends….so in a few days, I'm making a drive to pick up FOUR sleds to start working on! It's going to be quite a bit of work, but I'm psyched--this is *highly* addictive! I'm trying to decide whether to clear coat my glossy one myself or to get an automative coat put on professionally. We'll see.

A note on using sleds: Most everyone prefers to use the aluminum blanks, especially as they are certainly more screen accurate. I have to say, though, you can make a gorgeous shield out of a steel saucer sled after you trim the lip and strip the paint. A lot of folks started off that way, but it seems most have moved on to the aluminum blanks. If the $200 blank intimidates you, you can find a steel saucer sled for $35, plus you don't have to worry about painting the grooves that go along with the blank.

Just a little public service announcement for anyone who might be following this thread but is turned off by the cost of the blanks.

FYI, though: Paricon has run out of their steel saucer sleds & isn't planning on making more until August. Most sites that still list them either don't actually have them or want far too much for them because of the short supply. However, I found a place called thetoolworkshop.com based in NJ & NY that not only has over 300 sleds left, they're actually selling them for only $26. The only issue is that they ship them via freight shipping--so $100 per sled---hence my car trip this week. If you don't live too far from the NJ/NY area, are open to using a sled as your base, and don't want to wait until August, this is a great option.

 

[Jwave]

I'm about to start painting, I just wanted to confirm which is the smarter way to prepare the surface before spraying. For starters, I have a dupli-color pre wipe and a metal polish cream for chrome/aluminum wheels, and some applicator pads... should I first prepare the surface with the polish, or just the bare portions of the shield I want to remain untouched? OR should I apply this polish after the other layers have been painted to use as an after/final? I have multiple scratches that need fixing on the shield, parts to be painted and parts to remain bare... also I have a dupli-color perfect match protective clear coat finish to apply, should this be used before or after said cream? I presume either of these are used in the final portion, but I need to find a way to remove the remainder of the glue bits and scratches on the surface... sorry guys, just super paranoid and finally have the time to start working on this, should have been asking questions before so I could plan better >_>

Trying to get it all ready for wondercon in 2 weeks so I'm going into o crap mode

 

[drakeprimeone]

All you need to do before painting is make sure the surface is clean / oil free. I'm not sure what that pre wipe does. Definitely do not use that polish before painting. I usually wipe the whole shield down with acetone. Then tape up in preparation to paint the blue. As to the scratches, minor ones will be covered by the paint. What glue bits are on the shield?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[HaNDiCaPZaCH]

I've got two questions regarding paint/looks..

#1: I'm making a shield with Wonderflex, so I wanted to ask about what spray paints are good for color and for a tiny bit of flex? I have an aluminium skeleton in between layers of plastic for strength but between the metal will still be a little flexible.
#2: Since I'm using plastic, What is a good way to give the look of the spun aluminium shields? (those circular, tiny, and faint lines) I'd really love to get these in there. I've heard of people trying to use sandpaper/steel wool and rub it around the unpainted face but I haven't seen how effective it is or if that works on plastic at all.

 

[Chris92]

I've heard of people trying to use sandpaper/steel wool and rub it around the unpainted face but I haven't seen how effective it is or if that works on plastic at all.

That one I can answer. I tried that and the paint just covered it up. It didn't give the brushed metal look.

 

[Verbal21]

anybody free to paint a blank shield?

 

[Kevin Gossett]

Frosty has a thread in the junkyard

 

[Tengu3]

What product have people here found works best for masking-off areas when painting, so that when it's peeled up later, you get a good clean crisp line?

If you use a painter's tape, what brand and model?

Does anyone use a film frisket or masking fluid? Are they superior to tape?


I'm about to start painting, so I'd really like to know what to use to get a good result. THANKS!

 

[drakeprimeone]

3m makes a great masking tape specific for metal surfaces. The real trick is making sure to wait 24 hours before pulling the tape off

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[Doc Spengler]

3m tape is good, i also got good lines using Frog Tape.

 

[drakeprimeone]

actually what I was really thinking was Scotch blue tape

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[mtrixman]

I used Frog tape here as well for the lines. However, I used a low adhesion painters tape by 3M when I had to mask the blue painted center. Annoying part is that it leaves a residue sometimes which you might need to gently rub off

 

[Jwave]

Oh god, I'm so sorry, I almost crashed the post. Finally was able to edit and remove all the pics that weren't mounted properly... ok take 2.

I just used regular blue painters tape, just cut it down and use the scissors blunt edge to push the tape into the indented circles.

So as an update, I've managed to tape off, spray, use acetone paint remover on certain spots, and use steel wool to get ride of heavily painted areas... and now I'm left with this abominable paint job that I really don't want to have to entirely start over from scratch, but I'll leave that up to the jury (aka whomever replies) if its salvageable or not.
​

As you can see, its rough. Close up its worse. I found that I had these fuzzy things collecting on the surface, I have no idea if I'm layering on too much or if thats apart of the spray painting...
​

and keeping the divider rings bare as well, painters tape pulled off sections, and the paint remover I used to clean after for extra spray that made it through the tape took some off as well. I'll have to find a better way to cover those spots without overlapping the lip.. has anyone tried hot glue? I imagine it should work, its easy, doesnt mess with the metal and can be (hopefully) removed with ease afterwards.

I still have an issue with the bare aluminum, scratches and blemishes on the star for instance and I'm not sure how to fix it: These were caused by magnets to hold the star down while the glue was setting to the shield:

I also have a rather pronounced scratch on the red section but its flat (doesn't feel like its there) but in the right light it catches. How can I resolve this?:​

Lastly the biggest spots that I need to navigate are these wonderful dabs of paint remover used on heavy paint spots... I initially tried using steel wool to shave down the heavy sections but they didn't cut it. Now I have these lovely marks to try to correct my attempt at fixing it...​

That in essence is where I am now.. and I'm rather afraid to jump back into it before I make more 'fixes'... =(​

 

[Kevin Gossett]

To be totally honest? Strip it down and try again. Most of us have had to do that several times to get a good finish.

 

[drakeprimeone]

Oh god, I'm so sorry, I almost crashed the post. Finally was able to edit and remove all the pics that weren't mounted properly... ok take 2.

I just used regular blue painters tape, just cut it down and use the scissors blunt edge to push the tape into the indented circles.

So as an update, I've managed to tape off, spray, use acetone paint remover on certain spots, and use steel wool to get ride of heavily painted areas... and now I'm left with this abominable paint job that I really don't want to have to entirely start over from scratch, but I'll leave that up to the jury (aka whomever replies) if its salvageable or not.
​

View attachment 309256

As you can see, its rough. Close up its worse. I found that I had these fuzzy things collecting on the surface, I have no idea if I'm layering on too much or if thats apart of the spray painting...
​

View attachment 309257

and keeping the divider rings bare as well, painters tape pulled off sections, and the paint remover I used to clean after for extra spray that made it through the tape took some off as well. I'll have to find a better way to cover those spots without overlapping the lip.. has anyone tried hot glue? I imagine it should work, its easy, doesnt mess with the metal and can be (hopefully) removed with ease afterwards.

I still have an issue with the bare aluminum, scratches and blemishes on the star for instance and I'm not sure how to fix it: These were caused by magnets to hold the star down while the glue was setting to the shield:

View attachment 309258

I also have a rather pronounced scratch on the red section but its flat (doesn't feel like its there) but in the right light it catches. How can I resolve this?:​

View attachment 309259

Lastly the biggest spots that I need to navigate are these wonderful dabs of paint remover used on heavy paint spots... I initially tried using steel wool to shave down the heavy sections but they didn't cut it. Now I have these lovely marks to try to correct my attempt at fixing it...​

View attachment 309266 View attachment 309267

That in essence is where I am now.. and I'm rather afraid to jump back into it before I make more 'fixes'... =(​

I would start over. Some of the things I can help you address:

1. That debris is most likely from particles that landed on the shield as you were spraying or more likely as you were waiting for it to dry. This happened to me when I let my shield dry in my garage. I remedied it by bringing it in to the cleaner adjoining laundry room. You can also remedy that by creating a plastic cover to place over the shield as it dries.

2. You don't want to leave the divider ring between the blue and red bare. Ideally you want to split the ring 50/50 so that the ridge on the blue side is blue and the ridge on the red side is red. Mask the entire shield and remove the tape on the blue circle by cutting away near the blue ring side. Fold the tape down so it covers the red ridge. When it comes time to paint the red rings, recover the blue and re cut the tape near the red ring side this time. Then fold the excess tape so it covers the blue ridge.

3. If your painters tape is pulling up your paint job then that means you either have some bad tape / not using the appropriate type or you are not letting the paint job dry completely.
I use Scotch Blue Tape specific for metal surfaces. I get the widest tape roll so that I can mask the entire shield. Paint the blue first, let it dry a minimum of 24 hours before you cover the blue up with painters tape and move on to the red rings. (If you don't already do this paint both red rings simultaneously)

4. To even out your paint job its all about technique, make sure you are doing several light even passes over the entire shield. Do not start your spray directly on the shield. Start the spray off the shield and pass over the shield completely.

Which leads me to your heavy spots you tried to shave down....

5. Those bare spots alone are reason to start over in my book. Ive accepted that I won't try to spot fix a paint job. Its either entirely satisfactory to me or I'm starting over completely.
The paint job should be even and uniform. Shaving heavy spots of paint may cause you to scratch the aluminum itself.

6. Most importantly, be ok with the idea that you may/will have to start over completely a couple times or more. This shield is a beautiful piece when you apply a good paint job and unfortunately it takes practice. Rather than using Acetone to wipe out that much paint, many of us use Citristrip to get it off en mass and then clean it up with an Acetone rub down. Further back in this thread I have a string of posts that shows me having to start over along with pics. Check it out. Don't feel bad about starting over and good luck with a repaint!