The Found TMOST/Finney Phaser Going Up For Auction causes a change in my phasers.

Chrisisall

Master Member
Now I can look at photos of the Jein phaser and see clearly that it had been (IMO) repainted post series cancellation. Darker grays on the body & the P1? Possibly. Darker bronze on the handle? Most definitely.
The TMOST/Finney is in amazingly great condition, and the original colours are right there, though of course a little worn from age.
So, goodbye Rustoleum Dark Bronze Metallic for the handle. Hello Krylon Antique Bronze. In some light it looks a little like a lighter bronze (without the brown qualities of DBM), and in other light it looks almost like the colour of the mid-grade handles. A win for guys like me that have to use rattle cans.
As of today, all my hero replicas have it, with the notable exception of my Wand phaser, which will remain unaltered.
Here are pictures in some very different lighting situations....
Anyone else here gonna change their hero handle colour?
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Looks good! The thing that really makes the paint on the original prop handles so frustrating is the seeming total lack of any metal flake in the paint. They look metallic, but not like most metallic paints.

My favorite paint for the handle is Testors titanium. It really seemed to capture that pencil lead look really well. I wish they hadn't discontinued it. :(

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In our ongoing quest for multidimensional expansion... (sorry, I just had a "They Live" moment there), I mean in my ongoing quest to perfect my phasers, I tested brushing on Pledge acrylic floor wax (which I just found out has been discontinued!!!) on the Matte Deep Gray I used on the P2 bodies (which was just a bit too 'matte') on my mid grade Shanko. Works nicely. Gives it a proper gloss & even makes it appear ever so slightly darker. My heroes are next.
Some day I will be done, but not I guess, today.
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Well, it's transferred directly from film which is pretty accurate- you just have to consider the original set or location lighting....

It should be noted that any film or show—TOS included—does not present the look of the raw film/negative when transferred for home media. The color-timing process specifically nudges colors and brightness in the filmmakers’ desired direction.

So, the colors one sees when watching a film or show should not automatically be taken as indicative of what the on-set colors actually were.
 
Having no skills, how do you determine correct colors, when you compare your visual viewing of the props to a screencaps, or other display hardware?
 
Having no skills, how do you determine correct colors, when you compare your visual viewing of the props to a screencaps, or other display hardware?
Well, I took lots of art classes in high school and college, color theory being among them. You get a sense from looking at hundreds of photos and screencaps what the colour probably is from seeing all the variations with different exposures, lighting & ambient colours surrounding a subject. In the end, you gotta pull a Spock and "make the best guess" you can.
 
Well, I took lots of art classes in high school and college, color theory being among them. You get a sense from looking at hundreds of photos and screencaps what the colour probably is from seeing all the variations with different exposures, lighting & ambient colours surrounding a subject. In the end, you gotta pull a Spock and "make the best guess" you can.

If being a TOS phaser fan has taught me anything, it's that gray is especially hard to really pin down. It picks up nearby tones really well and reacts to light in an exaggerated way.

I made my peace with only being "close enough to make ME happy" on my builds a long time ago. It's great to see more pics and especially more original props come to light because it adds more data points to experiment with, but I think getting the "right" color is always going to be something of a moving target.
 
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