The Blade Runner PKD Blaster Green LED

Your current LEDs are Charms candy green. Those are incorrect. The old LEDs are very close to true green. If you can find old electronics, you may be able to see the difference.

As I mentioned, the white switches are a challenge. There are white switches available, but I have not seen the correct size in decades. I do not know who made the originals.

Otherwise, your circuit looks very nice.

Perhaps the plastic parts of the switches can be printed.

How do you keep the clip from falling out?
 
This is approximately the right green:

004876-77313921.jpg



Because colors in digital pictures can vary, the green looks about right but the red is wrong.
 
This is approximately the right green:

View attachment 1850884


Because colors in digital pictures can vary, the green looks about right but the red is wrong.
Thank you for the reference. Alas, that green is hard to locate and whatever LEDs I have now is based on this era's manufacturing technology. Earlier in the thread, my problem with green LED was that I had two versions. They both looked like Charms Candy Green but when it was lit, one was a sickly yellow/green while the other was just green. I was overthinking a little since in actual Movie, they were never lit. I do have some vintage LEDs but never the 3mm ones, either with diffused or clear lens.

With reference to the AndersFP files, the clip was held with eight 5mm neodymium magnets where the pair or magnets at the rear also serves as connectors to power the green LEDs. I have included that in the circuit board and it is optional if they need to light the green LEDs.
 
The story so far...
The pre-Production Boards are in and I will populate them and test them for one final time sometime this week. Then I'll have to rush to complete the Manuals.


YmD8SLKRTVwOJEcqgDN1m4FKS5U2p2qj7qUKU0QhHZwI=w2400.jpg

 
The ones that do are through-hole switches which solders directly onto the PCB and thus, will not flex when being inserted into the Ammo Clip.
You'd have to break the resin and then epoxy it back. Furthermore, it is hard to locate the ones which has 4mm spindle.
 
Where can you order the switches with the white shafts?

Yes, it might be a messy process to assemble, but having the correct color would be worth the extra work.
 
Where can you order the switches with the white shafts?

Yes, it might be a messy process to assemble, but having the correct color would be worth the extra work.
True but as far as I know, those switches are hard to find nowadays from this side of the World. The ammo clip's switch cavity (3.5mm x 3.7mm x 8.5mm), accepts the current switch. The closest has almost the closest shape but it was too big and the spindle too short.

The alternative would be to design a slip-in spindle cover and then 3D print it in white resin.
 
True but as far as I know, those switches are hard to find nowadays from this side of the World. The ammo clip's switch cavity (3.5mm x 3.7mm x 8.5mm), accepts the current switch. The closest has almost the closest shape but it was too big and the spindle too short.

The alternative would be to design a slip-in spindle cover and then 3D print it in white resin.
or just a dash of white paint on the switch ;)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20240923_102421_edit_462819886030941_resized_20240923_102520204.jpg
    IMG_20240923_102421_edit_462819886030941_resized_20240923_102520204.jpg
    2.4 MB · Views: 10
Been there. The paint chips off very quickly.

A molded switch is the ideal solution.

The next best solution is to slip on a styrene tube to extend the shaft. These are not very durable, but will work temporarily.
 
Back
Top