Tamiya Acrylic over Lacquer. Ok?

Mark2000

Active Member
Hey all. Apparently there is a shortage of tamiya bottle acrylics out there due to (according to my local shop) tariffs? Anyway, with me out of white and no store nearby or on the internet that could get me more in a reasonable amount of time I bought a rattle can of tamiya insignia white, which I assume is lacquer. It will be my base coat. I have everything else I need for detailing as bottle acrylic for my airbrush. Can I paint acrylic ok over this spray stuff? I would also want to put a coat of future on it for decals and then a final coat of rattlecan matte as a final finish. Kosher? Will there be problems down the line?
 
Hey all. Apparently there is a shortage of tamiya bottle acrylics out there due to (according to my local shop) tariffs? Anyway, with me out of white and no store nearby or on the internet that could get me more in a reasonable amount of time I bought a rattle can of tamiya insignia white, which I assume is lacquer. It will be my base coat. I have everything else I need for detailing as bottle acrylic for my airbrush. Can I paint acrylic ok over this spray stuff? I would also want to put a coat of future on it for decals and then a final coat of rattlecan matte as a final finish. Kosher? Will there be problems down the line?
Should be fine, as long as you allow the lacquer to completely dry.
 
The dangerous combination is painting lacquer over enamel paint (especially gloss). The lacquer solvents tend to attack the underlying paint causing it to wrinkle up. But the other way around is usually fine.
You should be fine painting other types of paint over lacquer.
 
You'll be fine. Tamiya rattle can lacquer dries very quickly. Several hours should be fine, but you can wait longer if you want to.

You can also paint lacquer over acrylic, as long as the acrylic is dry.
 
I had an issue. Don’t know what happened but after letting the rattlecan dry for a day I did some green frog tape masking. A bunch of areas pealed off taking the primer as well. Bare styrene. I don’t think it’s from poor cleaning of the part, but it could be. Really upset.
 
Pre-washing the parts is very important for good paint adhesion. I like to use very warm water with Simple Green and a scrub brush to remove the mold release. The parts should squeak when rubbed with your finger. Also, for large, smooth parts, it can help to slightly scuff the surface with fine steel wool or fine-grit sandpaper (600 or higher) to create a slightly rougher surface for the paint to bite onto. Lastly, you could spray the surface with an adhesion promoter (which can be found at most local auto supply/auto paint stores) and allow it to dry for a few minutes before spraying on your first coat of primer.

Good luck. Hope this helps!


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