T1 and T2 Endoskeleton Research Thread

I always wondered if that thing would instantly turn “Un-cool” the second your friend’s voice came out of the mouth and the jaw flapped around like a cartoon skeleton. I imagine that thing would have been expensive too. I can just imagine people having regret. Hehe.

-Dana
 
I’m still working with an old printed hand (Pose3) but I think I’ve figured out how I’m going to install this set of pistons. They use DuBro 4-40 rod ends to attach pistons from the palm plate to the second knuckle of the four fingers (I only had enough rod ends to build 3 of them). It’s pretty amazing how they designed the mechanics of these hands. Anyway, here’s some pictures of the WIP:
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Fun fact - I redesigned those pistons 5 times since the last time I posted about them. Also, I am now aware that each hand uses about $75 USD worth of RC parts and screws/hardware. Ask me how I know :lol:

I also received some samples from the vacuum metalizing place. Actually it was a whole lot of samples:
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These were really the only ones I wanted to see in person:
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That’s all for now, It will likely be a few days before I have more DuBro parts in hand, and I’m working on the other pistons with the control cables for curling the fingers.

-Dana
 
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Hey does anyone know where to get the clear part for the eyes? T1 or T2 version?
I don’t know of the specific part they used in the film, and there is a debate to be had about the whole notion that T1 had different lenses compared to T2. Especially the supposed waffle texture lenses you used to be able to buy at RadioShack. lol. What look are you trying to recreate?
 
I always wondered if that thing would instantly turn “Un-cool” the second your friend’s voice came out of the mouth and the jaw flapped around like a cartoon skeleton. I imagine that thing would have been expensive too. I can just imagine people having regret. Hehe.

-Dana
They have a video showing how it worked. It was text chat and the voice was that old style electronic voice and I don't remember if the jaw moved, but the head likely did, as that was the camera (hole in the forehead?)
 
I always wondered if that thing would instantly turn “Un-cool” the second your friend’s voice came out of the mouth and the jaw flapped around like a cartoon skeleton. I imagine that thing would have been expensive too. I can just imagine people having regret. Hehe.

-Dana
Oh for sure. I only wanted it for the skull itself. Coming straight from Stan I figured it would have to be pretty accurate. I remember when they were talking about making it. I was so excited. But yeah probably really expensive.
 
I’m still working with an old printed hand (Pose3) but I think I’ve figured out how I’m going to install this set of pistons. They use DuBro 4-40 rod ends to attach pistons from the palm plate to the second knuckle of the four fingers (I only had enough rod ends to build 3 of them). It’s pretty amazing how they designed the mechanics of these hands. Anyway, here’s some pictures of the WIP:
View attachment 1907709
View attachment 1907710
View attachment 1907711

Fun fact - I redesigned those pistons 5 times since the last time I posted about them. Also, I am now aware that each hand uses about $74 USD worth of RC parts and screws/hardware. Ask me how I know :lol:

I also received some samples from the vacuum metalizing place. Actually it was a whole lot of samples:
View attachment 1907712

These were really the only ones I wanted to see in person:
View attachment 1907713

That’s all for now, It will likely be a few days before I have more DuBro parts in hand, and I’m working on the other pistons with the control cables for curling the fingers.

-Dana
Those hands look soooo good. Using the DuBro parts is cool also. They do add up though.
 
I’m still working with an old printed hand (Pose3) but I think I’ve figured out how I’m going to install this set of pistons. They use DuBro 4-40 rod ends to attach pistons from the palm plate to the second knuckle of the four fingers (I only had enough rod ends to build 3 of them). It’s pretty amazing how they designed the mechanics of these hands. Anyway, here’s some pictures of the WIP:
View attachment 1907709
View attachment 1907710
View attachment 1907711

Fun fact - I redesigned those pistons 5 times since the last time I posted about them. Also, I am now aware that each hand uses about $75 USD worth of RC parts and screws/hardware. Ask me how I know :lol:

I also received some samples from the vacuum metalizing place. Actually it was a whole lot of samples:
View attachment 1907712

These were really the only ones I wanted to see in person:
View attachment 1907713

That’s all for now, It will likely be a few days before I have more DuBro parts in hand, and I’m working on the other pistons with the control cables for curling the fingers.

-Dana
Those hands are really cool:cool::cool:(y)(y):love::love: Eager to see the metalizing effect on them!
 
Thank you all for the kind words. Reverse engineering these things has been a journey. I thought I was pretty close when I did my first model a few years back. But I never built it until now, and while I got the broad strokes correct, I didn’t have some of the measurement and nuances right. I also didn’t have some ref that I needed to clear up some confusing bits. I think I’ve got 99% of it figured out now.

Made some more progress, DuBro shipment came in yesterday. Yay! So I managed to wrap up that last palm piston. But I was also able to start testing the upper knuckle-to-tip linkage which uses some DuBro shaft collars. I didn’t want to buy a big batch of the wrong size, so once again I got 1 baggie of the 1/16” size (based on ref and my CAD mockup, this was the most likely size) which includes 4 shaft collars and is only enough to do 2 fingers. But seeing I got the size correct, I pulled the trigger on the rest. Basically what they did is take a 1/16” or 1.5mm diameter rod and ran that through a cylindrical metal space (mine is printed) that has a hole in it (perpendicular to the thin rod) for the 4-40 rod to enter and that little bit of 4-40 then runs up into the DuBro rod end that mounts to the finger tip tab. I think they likely used solder to make all of these connections since they were moving the fingers. But in my static version for my 1:1 statue, I don’t even need glue and everything sits solidly in place!

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I’m looking forward to printing my new base hand (what I call Pose4) because it has some nice improvements and many subtle ones. I’m holding off until I can also incorporate any adjustments/learnings from the pistons and cable installs so that I can avoid wasting more big prints. But I’m really itching to see the new one in the real world! :lol:

-Dana
 
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I don’t know of the specific part they used in the film, and there is a debate to be had about the whole notion that T1 had different lenses compared to T2. Especially the supposed waffle texture lenses you used to be able to buy at RadioShack. lol. What look are you trying to recreate?

I think the skull I printed is maybe 98% accurate, but that's good enough for now. I know there are slight variations between movies, but I'm just going for "Hey look a T-800 skull!" :lol: So whatever version I can find the parts to replicate would be cool. I do kind of like the texture version. I was thinking maybe I could find a grid decal or something to put behind a clear lense and see if that looks good.

You can use 11-12mm cabachons, depending on the size of the cast eye opening.

Thanks!
 
Interesting. I bought the SKYNET-2029 Skull model but it doesn't have the grid on the eye lens, so I've made my own.
This is a test print in a translucent black. I've colourised it show it in red with light shining through it. I was worried the grid might be too small, but I dunno, might be ok?

IMG_20250225_004054.jpg
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Interesting. I bought the SKYNET-2029 Skull model but it doesn't have the grid on the eye lens, so I've made my own.
This is a test print in a translucent black. I've colourised it show it in red with light shining through it. I was worried the grid might be too small, but I dunno, might be ok?
looks cool but I like the clear lens better, without the grid, like the T1. It's more logical, it looks like a lens, not a brake light. It's also cool when you can see the mechanical diaphragm through the lens.
 
looks cool but I like the clear lens better, without the grid, like the T1. It's more logical, it looks like a lens, not a brake light. It's also cool when you can see the mechanical diaphragm through the lens.
My personal preference aligns with yours, but I do understand why some people like the grid look. If they’re looking to get that look because of the closeup insert shot from T2 referenced above, I think it’s more subtle than any commercial replica where they used the RadioShack style lens. I think the best way to replicate it would be to use a clear front lens, behind that have a thin representation of the black iris blades opened up to whatever “aperture” size you like, followed by a red lens/disc that has a higher density gird/waffle/reflector pattern, and finally an LED mounted behind that (likely best use a red color as well). If their LED causes too much of a “hotspot” still, a layer of diffusion material between the LED and the grid disc could even out the glow.

That’s how I would do it if that look was my goal.

-Dana
 
The lens should always be clear, no grid, no pattern. The grid is only ever seen in the upscaled endo eye piece used for the close up.
 

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I think I know why companies don’t sell life size T1 endoskeletons… lol
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What an amazing nightmare of a project these hands have been. Loving it though! Received the remaining DuBro components, sorted out the palm pistons and cables used to puppeteer the fingers.

I’ve discovered even more little secrets the hero hands had hidden. Going to incorporate those for the final rev of my hands. Moving on to the thumb for now.

-Dana
 
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