StarshipBuilder's Studio-Scale Galactica #3

While there haven't been any updates from me in a while, the head section is now done (has been for a while) and is ready to go in the crate. Same goes for the neck section.

I've been slowly finishing the last details on the engine section as I'm juggling other stuff. The last few custom parts have arrived (my laser-cutter had technical issues that delayed the delivery). The client was kind enough to allow me to do some extra work such as installing the ventilation fans and designing a custom plug-and-play wire harness and lighting system for the entire ship. All that required some extra engineering, time, new hardware to special order, and a few custom parts such as adapter plates for sealing the airstream around the fans.

Fortunately, I have the crates ready to go. All the packing materials are in place as well. Final delivery will take place soon! I plan to will take one final round of photos before it all leaves the shop.

In the meantime, here's a minor update. I created some special adapter plates for installing the fans. I chose some of the finest computer case fans available. They are very efficient and super quiet. But, as you will see, there is only a tiny mounting surface around the perimeter. This made it impossible to apply weatherstripping to seal around it. Fortunately, I was able to come up with a good workaround.

The solution was to secure each fan to a custom adapter plate via silicone caulking. Then, the assembly is bolted to the front engine bulkhead by way of elastomer anti-vibration mounts. You could argue these aren't absolutely necessary. But, given this is an all-Plexiglass structure and fans do create at least some vibration, I prefer to be better safe than sorry. All my builds are made to last and this is the sort of extra effort I like to go to.

At any rate, the anti-vibration mounts stand proud of the surface of the bulkhead. The resulting gap was filled with weatherstripping to make a draft-proof seal. I finished by hooking up the fan to my 12V benchtop power supply for a test run. It was so quiet I had to listen real close to even hear it! And, it moves a lot of air.

As I was installing all this, I tried to think ahead to what might happen if a fan ever quits working and has to be replaced. Once the front sloping panel goes on, there's no way to access the screw heads on the other side of the bulkhead. I could imagine it being a nightmare to work on later. This is often the case with products you buy that are designed to be easy to put together at the factory even if that means they are impossible to service later on.

Well, I just don't believe in that sort of thing. So, I managed to install jam nuts inside the anti-vibration mounts using thread locking compound. This turned the loose mounting bolts into fixed studs. This way, each fan can be removed and the mounting bolts will stay put. Just twist off the lock nuts, slip the fan off the studs, and replace it.

BTW, I used rubber washers on the back side of the bulkhead so the mounting bolts do not make direct contact. This plus the anti-vibration mounts isolates the fans from the surrounding structure to ensure the smoothest possible operation.
 
This is why you are the guy who is known as the one who (literally) wrote the book on model making! You're in a league of your own, Charles! Nice work!
 
Thanks, guys! :)

Another update. The engine section is sooo close to being done. I have only one more piece to install, a skin panel on the front upper slope. I hope to have that on Friday so I can start crating the head, neck, and engine sections over the weekend. The crates are assembled and ready. . .

I spent time this week dealing with the lid, front air vent, and rear thruster openings. For the lid, I had to get all the tie-downs in place and everything precisely aligned. Because I made the upper side boxes removable to aid in detailing, much of the top can only be assembled after those are permanently glued in place. But, I want as much done as possible prior to delivery to make it easy on the client. So, I carefully fitted and pre-installed whatever I could, all the while making sure the whole thing could come back apart once it gets to its destination.

The same thing goes for the rear thruster openings. Those come apart to make it easier to detail the insides. Yet, everything must be fitted and assembled prior to delivery. After that, it all has to come apart again. As a result, many of the parts are only taped in place for now, or screwed down in such a way that they can be disassembled later.

One interesting experience was making the Plascore honeycomb engine vents. I have never worked with this material before. It's made from paper-thin aluminum and its about as hard to find as KoolShade. So, I could not afford to make any mistakes.

The center opening on this design has a "tunnel" with a red Plexiglas insert. This means the Plascore must be carefully trimmed to fit inside the tunnel. It took some practice, but I was able to cut it cleanly using sprue cutters.

I also built the KoolShade vent in the front. That was pretty tricky. It turns out they used two layers on the original to try and keep you from being able to see through the material. The top layer runs at a right angle to the bottom layer. I made the bottom piece oversize and glued it around the edges underneath with CA. But, the top piece just sits in the opening and nothing attached it on the original. In fact, they used the kit parts to hold it down!

This stuff is like a fabric so it doesn't want to lay flat. I came up with a unique solution. I took a short piece of stranded aluminum electrical hookup wire and removed the insulation. Then, I separated some of the strands. (Each one was not much thicker than a human hair.) I used these to "stitch" the KoolShade panel in place. By touching the strands with a black Sharpie marker, they completely disappear against the KoolShade. This worked so well, I plan to use this method in the future whenever I need to work with this material again.

I finished by installing a baffle under the vent made from scrap black acrylic. With this in place, you can't see anything at all inside the vent and yet air can still flow. It should work very well.

At any rate, here are the latest pics. I really wish I could take better pictures. This thing looks so much better in person than it does in these snapshots.
 
This project is ready for final delivery. Unfortunately, I was down with a nasty bout of flu for nearly two weeks and that delayed things. The worst part was I had the head and neck sections ready to go. The engine section had just gotten a coat of putty in a few places and was ready for final clean-up.

I'm still getting my strength back and trying to get up to speed. But, I have the head and neck sections boxed up and ready to tape shut. I still have to do some finish sanding on the engine section though and get it in its box. But, it will all be out the door shortly. . .
 
Good for you Charles i remember when things were
a little rough for you....... glad your busy! I am not
going to say "it looks good" it's just "Charles Adams"
stuff nuff said!:lol:thumbsup

Regards,
Michael

P.S. Still miss the old site!:cry
 
Yeah me and 3-D builder were talking the other day about the old site. I miss it too.


Charles its looking great, if your looking for a change of pace. Ive got plenty of work left on the Betty. (Joking)

Al
 
Outstanding build Chrles. There's goings be another happy customer of yours for sure.
 
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Thanks guys! Mike, bring a video camera, will ya? It would be really cool to see the unwrapping. . . :D

Jim, I feel very lucky to have my own dedicated workspace at long last. It's a first for me. Not only is it light and bright (and now even heated), but I even have a window -- that opens! LOL That's not too common in garages. . . And, as if that weren't enough, I have a really great view from the shop. Gotta love being in the mountains. :)
 
Thanks! :)

The client plans on using LED light bulbs. These do generate at least some heat, so it's better to have air circulating in there than not IMO. The CR model used 120 volt LED bulbs and those get pretty warm. In this case, the plan is to use 12V LED light bulbs. They have rather large heat sink fins and they do get somewhat warm. Having the fans will ensure no significant heat builds up in there.

Another idea I had was adding an alarm that will go off if either fan quits working. This is simpler to implement than a cut-off circuit that would kill the lights if the fans stop. Is it totally necessary? No. But, after investing all this time and $$$, I feel it's better to be safe than sorry.

Now that these items have been shipped to the client, my side of the project is pretty much complete. With that said, I've also been asked to design and build a complete wire harness for this model and I have already completed the drawings and specs for that. I'll be building it soon and making these available to other G builders as well.

I've also been asked by the client to make 3D pattern masters for the mystery parts on the front sloping panel of the engine section. More on that when I get to it. . . :)
 
I think everyone whos popped in on this thread or even just knows how Charles goes about things understands the man doesn't do things by halves. LOL

Tuesday night was a chance for me to see some of Charles building abilities first hand when i took delivery of the sections he built in this thread. Gee everything about them is very impressive. I'm more than happy with what i've received, i got a great service and incredible job for the money spent. I definitely got way more than i was expecting build wise but thats just how Charles goes about things. He builds em to last!:cool

As i said, i couldn't be happier with the service or results. Already i'll be having him do a few other things of a different nature for the build as well. He's pretty talented in a few things i've found but then anyone that knows Charles already knows that!:lol

Thanks Charles!

So, heres a quick lil mock up with them sections added to the rest!:love
 
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