Star Wars Credits and Coinage - References and Recreation

pretzel399

Active Member
Well, I'm very unfamiliar with casting with the metal powder but is it the amount of time it takes for the resin to cure that lets the metal sink to the bottom? Would if be possible to use a different resin with a shorter cure time?

Also, what if you made the ingots just a little thicker and we could sand off the bottom of them where the line shows?

These are just thoughts, and probably not good ones. Personally I don't mind the thin line of flashing if nothing can be done about it. So sorry you're having so much trouble.
 

Muddler

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Well, I'm very unfamiliar with casting with the metal powder but is it the amount of time it takes for the resin to cure that lets the metal sink to the bottom? Would if be possible to use a different resin with a shorter cure time?

Also, what if you made the ingots just a little thicker and we could sand off the bottom of them where the line shows?

These are just thoughts, and probably not good ones. Personally I don't mind the thin line of flashing if nothing can be done about it. So sorry you're having so much trouble.
Thanks for your comments and thoughts!
Using resin with a shorter curing time is unfortunately not really possible. The one I'm currently using has already got a pot life of only 10 minutes. Taking even faster curing resin won't leave me with enough time to properly fill the molds.

And casting excess to be sanded off is also not possible. The polishable metal layer is only thick enough on the very surface of the cast (where it actually has contact to the dusted mold). If you sand away too much, you'll only get a very dull color without any shine...

But I think I'll just go with the last version. The thin line on the bottom is tolerable. And this way I'm able to produce constant results. If my next casts come out okay, I might be able to start a run next week! :D
 

pretzel399

Active Member
Well, that sounds good enough for me! Maybe someone else will chime in and post they're opinion about the thin line. I think they look great!
 

fraktilfilth

New Member
Have you considered using urethane instead of resin? I know it was used to produce other props on Solo. Are you purely looking for an in house solution? You could cast in wax and have them sent off to be made in aluminium which can then be anodised and then dyed.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
 

Muddler

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Have you considered using urethane instead of resin? I know it was used to produce other props on Solo. Are you purely looking for an in house solution? You could cast in wax and have them sent off to be made in aluminium which can then be anodised and then dyed.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
Thanks for your comment!

The resin I'm using is actually polyurethane-resin. (I don't know if the expressions are more distinctive in English. In German "Gießharz" is used for resin more commonly, which could be Polyurethane as well as Epoxy.)

Having the parts cast by a foundry and anodized would surely be the gold-standard (pun intended), but for now way outside my financial limits. If I ever considered turning this into a real business I might rethink this. But I actually like making things myself. So the "in-house-solution" is the goal at the moment...;)
 

Muddler

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
So finally gathered up my courage and started a run for the Credit Ingots! :$

(Under Project Runs in the Classified Section).
 

division 6

Master Member
On the Solo 2 disk BR there is a round table discussion with the director and cast at the table with several close ups of the assorted coins.
 

Joek3rr

Sr Member
Andi Gutierrez on the Star Wars Show had a segment on how to play pazaak. Had some nice shots of the props.
 

Muddler

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
On the Solo 2 disk BR there is a round table discussion with the director and cast at the table with several close ups of the assorted coins.
Andi Gutierrez on the Star Wars Show had a segment on how to play pazaak. Had some nice shots of the props.
Thanks! Any reference will surely come in handy!
Next project-part will be the crystalline coins. (I'll also search the pet shops for dog-treats, though...:lol)
 

Muddler

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Few more pix from the end game.
link
Cool! Thanks a lot! :)

Already working on the next bunch of credits!

This is just a teaser:

6hHKtAQ.jpg

Just started making the molds.
But as these coins are all supposed to be double-sided, I'll have to carefully work out where to divide the two mold-parts. I don't want too much visible flashing on the sides.
And I'm trying to combine transparent centers on the two coins in the back with a metal-cast body.
Don't know yet if this is gonna work...:unsure
 
Last edited:

Muddler

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Got my first test-cast of the crystalline coin done!

q7bxfVy.jpg


Really took some time to get the underlying symmetry right, but I think I'm pretty close.
And by now I'm convinced that I also got the right acrylic crystals!

n3lwkYN.jpg


kywKUvh.jpg


They've got a perpendicular x-shaped pattern with rectangular facets. Looked around the net for quite a while to find matching ones.
Quite exciting to see how the parts come together! :D
 
Last edited:

Muddler

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Seems like I finally got the Crystalline Coins right! :D

cHYTwq1.jpg


I'm now able to produce these in constant quality.
Also found the right glue which is strong enough to keep the crystals in place when throwing them on the table. ;)

What can happen with the wrong type of glue can be seen here: (NOT from throwing the coins around, but just from drying! I don't know, if it's the shrinkage or the solvent...)

tYzSk6k.jpg

Time to move on! These guys are really giving me a headache:

55HXzGh.jpg 67jto5w.jpg

I've tried to put red acrylic crystals into the mold and metal-cast the body around them. (I know that's not screen-accurate, but just painting the items felt kind of lame...)
But the layer holding them in place is very thin on some places, so it's hard to get a solid coin.

JZzDv8z.jpg

I'll keep on experimenting, but it might turn out that doing massive casts and painting them is the only practical way...:unsure

Test cast in "massive" here:

avzxSiC.jpg
 

Sluis Van Shipyards

Master Member
Some of those coins don't look practical. Can you imagine having to have a whole pocket full of something that big? The Mando version is at least twice the size of a US 50 cent piece.
 

Muddler

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Woooaaahh! Hi-Res detailed close-up pix!! :cry::cry::cry:
(Dammit.... Now I see all the little details I haven't gotten perfectly right yet!:confused:)

But honestly: Thanks a lot! This will definetly help with the coins I'm still working on.
(And I can tell from some of the pix that the prop-guys had the same issues with flashing-lines on some of the double-sided coins that I faced :lol:)
 

CAKComedyProps

Active Member
Just wanna share with you guys that I also started creating my own credits and chips, and I thought this was the right thread for it. This was a test print I did for paint and stuff so the surface texture isn’t great, but I’ll be printing a few more with a bit more thickness as well to make it more accurate.

E71B7CE7-A5A8-4168-B00C-5E467409743F.jpeg
 
Top