Yep, I understood and agree with you. I appreciate the guidance for sure!
You know, from your reference list, you might as well have been sorting through my storage container full of trek stuff
[emoji41][emoji106]
Star Trek III through VI Tricorder
- Thread starter BajaTym
- Start date
Yep, I understood and agree with you. I appreciate the guidance for sure!
You know, from your reference list, you might as well have been sorting through my storage container full of trek stuff
[emoji41][emoji106]
Hey -- we know our own.
don1701
New Member
I was wondering what kind of hinge you used for the bottom of the Tricorder, linking the front and rear main body pieces?
Hello Don1701, well I just used a couple of these round shelf pins and a spring. I picked both items up at Home Depot for a couple bucks.
Sorry, I forgot to mention that I'll be changing the hinge design for my next build. With the above design there's no way to remove the door/face after it's been installed. My current thinking is to either leave a small slit in the center just wide enough to retract the spring so one of the pins can disengage from the sidewall with a toothpick or printed lever (I was able to remove my door, but only after cutting a hole in the center, but it wasn't easy), or place small slots on both ends of the tube for a toothpick or printed levers. I'm sure there're 100 ways to accomplish it, but I've been fixated on the electronic side of things and haven't put too much though into it.
Also, I ran into trouble because of the tolerances I used for the mating of the spring and tube, very close, that in turn made it difficult to retract the spring. I did this in response to an earlier prototype I built where the spring annoyingly rattle around with general use. My thinking at the time was to just tighten everything up. While that stopped the rattle, it made it difficult to retract/remove the spring even prior to final assembly.
So please … BE WARNED MY FRIENDS … anyone who using the method above without modifications will probably have a difficult time removing the front half after installation.
*** Just stuff to think about for anyone trying to use the hinge-style above.
--James
I just need to say again, thank you for tackling this. Even with your current build destined to be a "learning experience", it helps all of us, not just you. I've narrowed my search for suitable screens down to a half-dozen possible candidates. I'll let you know which one or ones I order samples for after the weekend. As with zapwizard's Pip Boy project, I'm already looking at what you've done with an eye toward how we can make refined versions more functional, interactive, and exciting for people (including us) to see in action. In addition to screens, I've also re-upped my searches into IR sensors, compact radar chips (what they use for collision-avoidance systems in cars -- about the size of a postage stamp and not much thicker), various meteorological sensors, etc.
One of the things I think I've always loved most about this site, over most others, is seeing people do things and then others get inspired by that and build on that, often in turn inspiring the original poster, in the loveliest echo effect the internet can achieve.
One of the things I think I've always loved most about this site, over most others, is seeing people do things and then others get inspired by that and build on that, often in turn inspiring the original poster, in the loveliest echo effect the internet can achieve.
You're welcome. I’m a big fan of sharing ideas, concepts, and full-on collaboration (although I tend to be slow at collaborating). I personally enjoy lurking around the various posts and discovering clever ways other people accomplish tasks/builds. It alway amazes me the how talented most people are and how many ways there are to accomplish the same end idea... humans are amazing (IMO)
As to sensors, the shell of the Type B tricorder is pretty spacious, unfortunately much of that space is consumed the scanner head is retracted/stowed. In order to make even the simplest lights fit, the builder MUST plan in advance how any internal components will fit. For this last build I originally planned on making a custom PCB, but I still didn't have any guarantee everything would fit...and it didn't. For my next build I'll be mapping every little detail to ensure the components fit prior to printing a single part, this will require that I accurately model each component. One simple solution will be (as previously planned) to use a DIY PCB with SMC's.
Also, I'm considering dropping the Arduino and using a Raspberry Pi. This'll give me more functionality, speed, power, and screen control (smoother animations and a cleaner graphics). Hopefully I'll be able to integrate some additional functionality; sensors and such. As to actual screens, I discovered an almost perfect sized screen, so my unless you have something more accurate my updated design will include the one I mentioned and will allow me to more closely replicate the actual screen-used prop, most particularly the scope/screen protrusion. For those who don't know or didn't realize, I had to grossly enlarge this area to accommodate the screen I was using. This actually didn't look bad (I think it looks better), but my goal is to design something that, as much as possible, replicates the screen-used prop.
don1701
New Member
HI. I was also wondering whether you used a matte or glossy clear coat for the tricorder?
I never actually got to the point where I sprayed it with a clear coat, my plan was to use a mate. The screen-used SFS prop isn’t glossy at all, the others variants (St V, VI, and Generations) may have a different finish (beyond the color, they were a blackish color).
Hope that helps.
don1701
New Member
Do you have any graphics for the front buttons?
I do, I’ll post them when I get home this evening.
don1701
New Member
Cool. Thanks. If you have the rear computer display graphic, that would be appreciated too.
I couldn't find them, so I drew these this evening (PDF below). They match the screen-used SFS pretty closely. As to the screen, there is no screen used in the movies, but if there is something you're looking for let me know and I'll see what I can do.
--James
--James
don1701
New Member
What're the dimensions of your scope?
Here's a fast a dirty for you. Good luck.
don1701
New Member
I started it and got close to a final design, but all my modeling projects have been kicked to the back burner for a while. My first issue is with my computer and 123D no longer being supported. I started to play with other software offerings, but my Mac book is struggling with most of them. Anyway, I always have too many projects going on and just decided to focus on finishing the restoration of my 1951 Willys M38. I will get back to my modeling, but it won’t be until after the summer...maybe sooner, it just depends on a few things.
Thanks for the kind words!
Starbase101
Sr Member
I would love to build one of these. I'm a professional CAD engineer/programmer and have high-end CAD software on my Mac. I could help with the modeling...
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