Star Trek III through VI Tricorder

greatwazoo42

Sr Member
This is amazing! Perfect job so far.

The original popup mechanism was a large syringe hot glued in place with a spring inside. The speed of the head raising was adjusted with putting dabs of hot glue on the opening until it was restricting the airflow just enough to allow for a smooth speed up and down. I had planned to replace that mechanism in a resin replica I have with a rotary electric motor and arm, like a steam engine wheel and piston but where the wheel drives the arm and not the other way around.

I love the work you've done for the read out on the back. The original prop just had an amber light to illuminate the actor, your screen is such a perfect step forward.
 

Gatekeeper

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Wow. Fantastic work! My favorite tricorder... I so regret selling a kit I got from Sporak years ago.
I'm very interested in a possible future run too.
 

BAJA TYM

Active Member
This is amazing! Perfect job so far.

The original popup mechanism was a large syringe hot glued in place with a spring inside. The speed of the head raising was adjusted with putting dabs of hot glue on the opening until it was restricting the airflow just enough to allow for a smooth speed up and down. I had planned to replace that mechanism in a resin replica I have with a rotary electric motor and arm, like a steam engine wheel and piston but where the wheel drives the arm and not the other way around.

I love the work you've done for the read out on the back. The original prop just had an amber light to illuminate the actor, your screen is such a perfect step forward.
Thanks for the kind comments.

As to the "original" prop, you're correct. I have detailed photos (inside and out) of the "real deal" from the owner of the screen used SFS unit.

When I began this build I wanted to use a stepper motor to control the raising and lowering of the head, but it just didn't work out. Plus I believe a real device like this (something intended to be used in field conditions) would be better suited to a manual mechanism like I'm using. My next project will be a screen accurate build... well as close as possible.
 

BAJA TYM

Active Member
A small update...

My buddy came through on the Arduino sketch. Unfortunately I’ve not been able to test it because while assembling all of the components, I damaged the delicate ribbon cable that connects the 1.5" screen to it’s PCB backboard. I can't see it, but it seems at least on of the leads is broken on the ribbon.

IMG_7137.jpg


In an effort to keep the scope/screen housing as small as possible I removed the screen from its PCB (secured w/ double sided tape) and ran an extension cable from the screen to the PCB. I did this about 2 months ago and have been playing around with it ever since with no problems. Well that is until yesterday; while laying everything out on a breadboard the screen started display little black lines and then went blank.

After playing around with it for around 2 hrs I gave up and ordered a replacement, it should be here in a day or so.

So until then, here is a list of the “primary” components I’ll be using:

Arduino pro mini:
IMG_7139.jpg

IC 4017:
IMG_7141.jpg

Battery Charger:
IMG_7142.jpg

3.7 volt Li-ion Battery:
IMG_7147.jpg

Adafruit audio FX sound board, amp, and speaker
IMG_7138.jpg

Generic SD card reader:
IMG_7140.jpg

PCA9685 16 Channel 12-Bit PWM Servo Motor Driver IIC Module:
IMG_7143.jpg

1.5 in RGB OLED Module:
IMG_7136.jpg

3.5mm jack, receptacle, and switch:
IMG_7145 3.jpg
 
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the_doctor

New Member
I love this thread. Brilliant work so far. I'm trying to make an accurate 'V' version. Was also going to go down the CAD route, but interested in runs, bits and pieces etc.
 

BAJA TYM

Active Member
I love this thread. Brilliant work so far. I'm trying to make an accurate 'V' version. Was also going to go down the CAD route, but interested in runs, bits and pieces etc.
Nice, I like TFF version a lot. So, have you started with your drawings? Are you going to do a thread?

Thanks for the comment!
 

BAJA TYM

Active Member
Sorry for the long delay, I’ve being dueling with my Arduino setup... I’m having a tearable time understanding C, I give big credit to all you programmers out there! I’m getting there, it’s just freaking slow.

Anyway, I received my replacement screen and finished connecting all of my componants. I spent about an hour modifying code last night to ensure everything was working properly and invissioned.

Test footage: note, the flickering is only seen on camera.


Based on the video above, I changed the following:

1. Updated the transitions, they no longer go black between screens. They simply wipe to reveal the selected function.

2. Altered the clock speed relative to the function; the LEDs on the scanner head change speeds depending on the function displayed.

Also, I’m still finalizing the sound FX I’ll be using, well, beyond the SFS “Boo Boop”. I taken directly from the film.

In addition to the scanning beep there will be a :

1. startup tone (triggered during start up)
2. button tone (triggered by any button press)
3. processing data tone (triggered where appropriate)
4. Shutdown tone (triggered on shutdown)

I was setting up to make another video to show my mods in action this morning when I acidently ran 8 volts through my breadboard and blew my SD card and reader. I’m luck that I didn’t kill everything, but I still need to replace those before I can make a new video. Also, even though it wasn’t videoed, all of the LEDs function well.

So for now, I ordered new parts that should be here by Wed, I’ve started to rework some of my previously mentioned cosmetic concerns (since I now have the time) and will hopefully have everything done by this weekend.

Cheers — James
 

the_doctor

New Member
Nice, I like TFF version a lot. So, have you started with your drawings? Are you going to do a thread?

Thanks for the comment!
If I have anything of substance I'll post. I have two casts, one of the III, one a V and working electronics for the V. Some references here and there and a build diary that someone did a few years ago when they did a group run. Hoping it will be enough! :)
 

BAJA TYM

Active Member
Where did you buy theses camera strap lugs?
They're the same as what was used on the "REAL" SFS screen-used tricorder (see photos) . Most replicas use the self tapping eye screws (also see below). While eye screws work great, the lugs look a lot better and help the tricorder look more like a real-world device... well, IMO that is.
IMG_3584.jpg
IMG_3587.jpg
NO.jpg


Link: DAG Camera Parts

Take care -- James
 
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BAJA TYM

Active Member
Wow, thank you that's very kind. Unfortunately I've been a little distracted with other things this past week. I'll get back to it very soon.
 

BAJA TYM

Active Member
A little update: although I've been distracted with life stuff, I've managed to devote a small amount of time to refining the electronics, resurfacing the exterior parts, and 3D designing the "disc/wheel" device for the front. The screen-used disc is actually a composite of two separate parts from the Tamiya RENAULT RE-20 kit (see my earlier post), part numbers D1(front wheel) and D9 (oil can assembly). Originally I was going to take the two parts and cast them, but I've since changed my mind. The actual oil can assembly has a hose/tube that runs across the lower part of the disk, if I was building a screen accurate device I'd just cast a copy, but since this is an idealized version I think the parts should be as clean as possible. Anyway, here's an example of my CAD drawings. Please not that the bolt heads and 3 extrusions along the interior are all aligned as seen in the parts.
33b.jpg

33.jpg


Anyway, I've printed several tests and I'm currently printing some updated designs (shown above)... so more to come... soon.

Cheers -- James
 
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BAJA TYM

Active Member
Okay, I think I've got it and am finalizing my disc design. The picture looks horrible, but the scratches are only ultra fine surface scuffs from my brush during cleaning. They look way better in person. I'm going to throw down a coat of primer and the scuffs should fade away.

IMG_7242.jpg
 
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