ST Enterprise Xindi Rifle Build
- Thread starter TymerDC
- Start date
TymerDC
Sr Member
Next step is removing the seam lines between the V grooves. This very thin flat diamond shaped file worked great for this purpose. Note while filing these to be careful not to file too deep on the inside curved area since the grooves on this side are not as deep or as wide. The same goes for the smaller tubes like these.
TymerDC
Sr Member
The 3 little "flex tubes" can be cleaned up the same way but its best to do this using a Magnifying Visor to work on these small parts since its very easy to file off way too much material quickly because of their size....a little filing goes a long way. With size in mind also be careful of how you hold these pieces since they can easily be snapped in 2 if held too tightly.
TymerDC
Sr Member
Once all the seams have been removed and a little "fine tuning" with a file then some light wet sanding to finish them off. I then scrub these with an old tooth brush under water to remove any resin dust caught in the grooves then I recheck to see if everything is filed straight or if I missed anything. The photo is just to illustrate so please scrub this under a running faucet, its just hard to take pics when you only have 2 hands and are alone at the time.
TymerDC
Sr Member
I then carefully took each drill bit in my hand and "reamed" out the holes ...this is to round them out , Just be sure to keep the bits straight to the holes as you do this.
I DO NOT recommend you try this with an Electric Hand Drill. You don't need the power because the resin cuts like butter just fine by hand with a good sharp bit and also the drill may grap your prop out of your hand and cause damage to you and/or your prop. The holes are adequately deep enough too...doing this by hand gives you better and safer control. Just be careful you don't cut your hands. You can always wear gloves or wrap tape around the bit if your not sure.
I DO NOT recommend you try this with an Electric Hand Drill. You don't need the power because the resin cuts like butter just fine by hand with a good sharp bit and also the drill may grap your prop out of your hand and cause damage to you and/or your prop. The holes are adequately deep enough too...doing this by hand gives you better and safer control. Just be careful you don't cut your hands. You can always wear gloves or wrap tape around the bit if your not sure.
TymerDC
Sr Member
After your done then check to see if all the tubes fit ok. if not then go back and ream again the hole thats the problem or if one tube doesn't fit then you may have to sand it a tiny bit so it fits. NOT TOO MUCH. What you want is a "slide on fit" and not a too tight or too sloppy a fit....just a happy medium.
TymerDC
Sr Member
Then try a "dry-run" to see if everything fits together. Do this slowly and don't force anything because you can snap in 2 the smaller tubes. I found the tubes aren't the same exact length or curvature so you may have to switch them around to see what fits best then you may want to mark them on the ends to remember which way they went. This is due to the screen prop we used...stunt props are made in a hurry and accuracy isn't a priority so there can always be some very tiny slight unnoticeable differences in parts. This can be refined or left alone depending on the modeler but I will revisit this at another time to 'fine tune" this part of the rifle.
clancampbell
Sr Member
Excellent and interesting build! Can't wit to see the irridescent paint job on this!
Rich
Rich
TymerDC
Sr Member
Theres a picture of a Hero Rifle on the 1st page of this thread. The Rifle you have pictured is a stunt. I'm actually almost done fixing the stunt rifle's "faults". The last 3 things I need to do is re-center the top forward rib of the rifle , add the triangle screen with setting switches and create a jig to saw out the front emitter accurately so the correct white acrylic can be added.
One other thing causing delays is hunting down a Hero where I can mic the triangle screen and setting switches accurately and make a pattern/jig to position them correctly on the top of the rifle so further ones can be done the same way only faster. Fortunately I think I know where I can get a personal look at one but its 2 hours drive from where I am.
These things take time and since this is only a project right now it will take a back seat to work that pays bills and family needs. We also have a talented painter who works in the film industry waiting to paint these correctly. He already has a game plan in recreating the "bug look" of the rifle. So hang in there guys....it will get done.
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