ST Enterprise Xindi Rifle Build
- Thread starter TymerDC
- Start date
TymerDC
Sr Member
I removed all the wrap and tape then test fitted the headpiece to see if it now sits square against its base but it still was a bit off. I made note on which side it was leaning a bit off retaped the headpiece to protect it and mixed up some more filler and added a bit to that side where there was a gap. I then repeated the process that I had before and then trimmed off the excess filler with a sharp knife.
TymerDC
Sr Member
On to the main body and sanding down the seams then filling with finishing putty. I went out and bought a different color glazing putty. When I add black to the new lite yellowish color, it turns blackish gray rather than the chocolate I was getting before. At this time I also filled in a few "imperfections" that cloned to the casting from the screen prop. Again this is my own method and others might want to do something different.
TymerDC
Sr Member
At this time you'll also see areas you may have to "improve" or fix since stunt props are not made for close-ups you'll find imperfections on them that you may have to fix. This is where having an abundance of needle files comes in handy to get into tight or tiny areas. I have almost every shape and size file you can think of....even some you didn't think of. You won't find alot of these at hobby shops since most of the time they only carry the basics. You'll have to go to jewelers supply houses for the more unusual ones. Pictured below are a few examples. The tiny flat files I have pictured are especially good at fixing and cleaning up slots on the rifle. One tiny flat file I found fits perfect near the inside area of the grips. The other flat file is a watchmaking file used to cut slots on tiny screws. Some of these files pictured don't apply to this particular build and I'm just showing a few examples of whats available so keep that in mind.
Note that this is just one individuals preference and some might want to leave the imperfections there....the choice is the builders. I prefer cleaning it up.
Note that this is just one individuals preference and some might want to leave the imperfections there....the choice is the builders. I prefer cleaning it up.
TymerDC
Sr Member
While sanding the body I've come across a couple areas needing repair. The line that goes around the rear grip needed some attention because it was nearly invisible which is more profound on the hero prop. I also found some detail that was already chipped off the screen prop we used that of course was cloned to my casting so I added material and will detail it up once the putty hardens.
TymerDC
Sr Member
Right now I'm concentrating on the inner area of the grips. This particular area needs some tuning up. On studying this closely I feel there was a very thin gap where the grip area meets the underside of the main body. Its hard to see in the photo but it looks to me this part broke off on the stunt gun and I could make out what looked like a gap. Now if I'm wrong this can always be filled in.
In the meantime I made a little shim out of brass and painters tape. The brass will reproduce the gap and the tape will keep putty from sticking to it. Once it hardens I can trim the excess putty and then remove my shim.
In the meantime I made a little shim out of brass and painters tape. The brass will reproduce the gap and the tape will keep putty from sticking to it. Once it hardens I can trim the excess putty and then remove my shim.
TymerDC
Sr Member
I just checked and the putty I applied is still slightly soft but hard enough to cut so I figured I might as well remove my shim. I took a sharp Exacto knife and sliced the area you see being careful to keep my blade just above flush to the grip. Then once that was done I simply and slowly slide up the shim and there's the gap I wanted. Once this hardens completely I will sand it down flush. The gap actually gives it a nice sharp look instead of it looking like its molded into the body. Now I know some guys will say this doesn't make sense there would be a gap there....didn't make sense to me either but I figure if later I find it wasn't there then I can simply fill it in and no harm done. Seeing a hero would help but that may be a long time away before I do. The blue tape is still in the gap but I will remove that with tweezers or a razor blade later.
TymerDC
Sr Member
Once I have them separated then its off to my disc sander. Now some may not have such a machine so you'll have to improvise with a Dremel Tool or whatever you feel will work. Sanding off a little at a time I sand flush with their base. You want to keep the small conduit base square so they attach to the main body straight which I'll show later. Taking a knife I then scape off the extra flash and seam lines. Then I will lightly sand later being careful not to remove too much material and just enough to erase the seam lines since these are very small.
