scratchbuilt TOS Enterprise..anyone done this?
- Thread starter saberMaN
- Start date
Paging RShanko...
phez
Sr Member
Here are some plans to start with.
http://www.cygnus-x1.net/links/lcars/index-bp.html
http://www.cygnus-x1.net/links/lcars/index-bp.html
You can tell what alsmost all of the materials are in the original 11 foot model from this resoration blog. Thank you kurt Kuhn for an amazing website :thumbsup.
http://www.modelermagic.com/?p=8672
http://www.cygnus-x1.net/links/lcars/index-bp.html
http://www.cygnus-x1.net/links/lcars/index-bp.html
You can tell what alsmost all of the materials are in the original 11 foot model from this resoration blog. Thank you kurt Kuhn for an amazing website :thumbsup.
http://www.modelermagic.com/?p=8672
it looked like the original models secondary hull was made by gluing long rectangular strips of wood together in a circle then sanded and puttied down. does anyone see this
http://www.modelermagic.com/wordpre...03/kg_star-trek_tos_1701_studio_model-034.jpg
my idea was to use this same method using wooden disks as a frame
what do you guys think
http://www.modelermagic.com/wordpre...03/kg_star-trek_tos_1701_studio_model-034.jpg
my idea was to use this same method using wooden disks as a frame
what do you guys think
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What I am amazed at is no one yet has built a studio scale replica of the 11 footer. Seems some nut would have done it by now.
Of course this whole board is full of nuts, me included.
robn1
Master Member
Here's details on David Merriman's build.
culttvman2.com/dnn/Articles/tabid/74/ctl/ArticleView/mid/408/articleId/3/Default.aspx
culttvman2.com/dnn/Models/ModelingStarTrek/StarTrekClassicEnterprise/DavidMerrimansClassicEnterpriseGallery/tabid/110/Default.aspx
It's on my "some day" list :lol
culttvman2.com/dnn/Articles/tabid/74/ctl/ArticleView/mid/408/articleId/3/Default.aspx
culttvman2.com/dnn/Models/ModelingStarTrek/StarTrekClassicEnterprise/DavidMerrimansClassicEnterpriseGallery/tabid/110/Default.aspx
It's on my "some day" list :lol
phez
Sr Member
It does look like strips from that shot laid over a frame. Post some progress pic's as you go.
robn1
That scratch build walk through that you posted is great. One of these days my 3 ft MR will piss me off enough (failing electronics, oil in the nacelle covers, etc...) to light it on fire and try a scratch build
lol
feek61
Sr Member
The secondary hull was sugar pine turned on a lathe according to Richard Datin. The saucer was vaccum formed plastic called Royalite. The warp engines were wood forward of the struts and sheet metal behind the struts. The articles in the old Communcator mag are priceless for details on the construction of both miniatures.
Will
Will
seeing the wood strips i guess you could do that. but my dad has been a woodworker for 25 years and he said that would be impossible to turn unless both ends were completely solid. but whatever i would never argue with richard datin the god himself. :love
so heres what im going to do
tonight im starting on the saucer. its round piece of wood that i will add wooden ribs to the top to make the dome shape..will post pics later tonight
so heres what im going to do
tonight im starting on the saucer. its round piece of wood that i will add wooden ribs to the top to make the dome shape..will post pics later tonight
ok guys im stuck
on the saucer domes on top and bottom i was going to use smaller disks of wood then sand them down to form the dome shape like this
http://s188.photobucket.com/albums/z309/saberman_album/?action=view¤t=saucer.jpg
but i think this is a bad way to do it. whats a way you guys would do it
on the saucer domes on top and bottom i was going to use smaller disks of wood then sand them down to form the dome shape like this
http://s188.photobucket.com/albums/z309/saberman_album/?action=view¤t=saucer.jpg
but i think this is a bad way to do it. whats a way you guys would do it
Use much thinner discs, perhaps masonite 1/8" then taper their diameters smaller as you stack them. now you have a contour that you can putty or bondo over.
Look at a sketch of the enterprise saucer from the side. Scale the picture up to your size, then see where the bump starts to form and break it down into thin layers. Each layer will give you a diameter of the next disk to stack. It's like building a round pyramid. Disk, slightly smaller disk, etc.
For the dome on top you can get hemisperes in sizes up to several inches from Plastruct.com
RGP
Look at a sketch of the enterprise saucer from the side. Scale the picture up to your size, then see where the bump starts to form and break it down into thin layers. Each layer will give you a diameter of the next disk to stack. It's like building a round pyramid. Disk, slightly smaller disk, etc.
For the dome on top you can get hemisperes in sizes up to several inches from Plastruct.com
RGP
would foamcore board work? will the putty eat it ?
QUOTE=RGPFX;876501]Use much thinner discs, perhaps masonite 1/8" then taper their diameters smaller as you stack them. now you have a contour that you can putty or bondo over.
Look at a sketch of the enterprise saucer from the side. Scale the picture up to your size, then see where the bump starts to form and break it down into thin layers. Each layer will give you a diameter of the next disk to stack. It's like building a round pyramid. Disk, slightly smaller disk, etc.
For the dome on top you can get hemisperes in sizes up to several inches from Plastruct.com
RGP[/QUOTE]
QUOTE=RGPFX;876501]Use much thinner discs, perhaps masonite 1/8" then taper their diameters smaller as you stack them. now you have a contour that you can putty or bondo over.
Look at a sketch of the enterprise saucer from the side. Scale the picture up to your size, then see where the bump starts to form and break it down into thin layers. Each layer will give you a diameter of the next disk to stack. It's like building a round pyramid. Disk, slightly smaller disk, etc.
For the dome on top you can get hemisperes in sizes up to several inches from Plastruct.com
RGP[/QUOTE]
Serafino
Sr Member
You can turn the hollow 'barrel' of wood by inserting temporary plugs at the ends. You need something for the centers to touch, at least at the tailstock end. If you've got a big enough chuck at the headstock you can maybe use that but a drive center would be better since it would not get in the way. Plugs at both ends seems the way to go.
Well, I would encourage saberMaN to do a lot of research first - both in how the original was made, and also some basic woodworking techniques. Feek61 could do the job based on the TOS Shuttlecraft he's done, but scratchbuilding a TOS Enterprise in a large size is not easy. And from saberMaN's question, I get the impression that he is just starting out in this hobby. And starting with something too difficult for one's skills (despite the advice and talent from this place) is a good recipe for getting frustrated, throwing the model against the wall, and giving up prematurely.
The secondary hull of the original was assembled much like a wooden ship model - plank on frame. Then it was sanded smooth and details added.
Gene
PS - Keep going saberMaN.....
The secondary hull of the original was assembled much like a wooden ship model - plank on frame. Then it was sanded smooth and details added.
Gene
PS - Keep going saberMaN.....
thanks man
well right now im going through some trial and error stuff. first off i bought some foam blocks it called cellfoam 88 or something like that.
http://s188.photobucket.com/albums/z309/saberman_album/?action=view¤t=faom.jpg
i'm going to sand the disks down hopefully getting some sort of general shape i need for the dome shape then will coat it in plaster or glue and if it works attach it to my saucer outline
like you said i am a newbie but im sticking to it :cool
what do you guys think?
well right now im going through some trial and error stuff. first off i bought some foam blocks it called cellfoam 88 or something like that.
http://s188.photobucket.com/albums/z309/saberman_album/?action=view¤t=faom.jpg
i'm going to sand the disks down hopefully getting some sort of general shape i need for the dome shape then will coat it in plaster or glue and if it works attach it to my saucer outline
like you said i am a newbie but im sticking to it :cool
what do you guys think?
