stigmorgan
Sr Member
Yeah, also I think I would be exiled to the garage if I added any more blades to my collection, the g/f wont have them on display "in case someone breaks in and uses them on us"
Sandbagger's Iron-Man builds - Now in STEEL
- Thread starter sandbagger
- Start date
sandbagger
Master Member
Built two parallelogram swinging hinges in steel today for the Iron Man face plate as well as purchased two bicycle cables to push-pull the faceplate up and down.
mrjbarl1
Active Member
This is pretty much the same concept I came up with for my own helmet, as well as my method for opening/closing my suit. I'm not entirely sure what your plans are, but it looks like The only difference between our designs; was that I had planned on using spring tension with a "ratchet-like" locking mechanism, which would remain closed until a servo/gear reduction motor would release the locks and coil up the cables/ draw the suit open.
Great minds must think alike lol
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sandbagger
Master Member
G'day mate. You've been quiet. I hope all is well with you? How is your suit going? I've been checking on your thread often for quite some time now and seen no updates.
SB
Good to see your still around mrjbarl.
SB that's a pretty heavy looking mechanism. Is it just due to the photo or could that thing support a good 200kg?
Will be good to see it in motions.
I need some some help with getting the layout for the suit, was yours just the pepakura file that you printed straight from that program?
SB that's a pretty heavy looking mechanism. Is it just due to the photo or could that thing support a good 200kg?
Will be good to see it in motions.
I need some some help with getting the layout for the suit, was yours just the pepakura file that you printed straight from that program?
sandbagger
Master Member
It's not about how much it can support, it's about being solid, precise and rigid enough that it provides a slop-free motion up and down. Smooth and no other motion laterally from the pivot pins. You can rest assured that you are not looking at the final product here. I will improve it in not only shape, but also the pivot pins will need to be more precise.
I used JFCustom's modified foam files from ROBO3687 and Sharkhead7854's helmet and yep, straight from the computer. Pretty easy if you prototype in cardboard first then just transfer onto sheet metal. Mine was pretty much at the default scale except the helmet which I think I boosted by 7.5% or was it 14% I can't remember. I had to add in an inch strip either side of the waist and cod but that was really all the mods I had to do. Did I mention do it in cardboard first? PARAMOUNT!
sandbagger
Master Member
I messed around with the hinge set-up today and got it worked out, including the cables.
The bolts you can see poking in will all have to be replaced with custom pins that will all be aligned and levelled, as well as some strategic bends in the hinge arms themselves, but it lifts and lowers with the faceplate in a good position out of my line of sight while open and a snug seal on the cheek and jaw when closed.
I've also welded a small tab on one of the hinges for the cable to pull the faceplate open. I haven't decided if I am going to have that cable relax against a spring to return, or just have a return cable to pull the faceplate down again.
I will experiment.
1. Side view. The screws will be replaced with flush pins and will not be seen in the finished helmet.
2. Even though the bolts have not been trimmed, I was surprised that when wearing it, they still did not contact my face when closed. I'm still going to replace and shorten them though.
3. Here you can see the rear boomerang hinge on the right side of the picture has a little extra tab welded on the end for the cable to attach.
4&5. Rough placement/position of the cable and hinge positions when open and closed.
Now you can see why I have been reluctant to grind back everything to a nice finish. There's still a bit of fiddling, cutting, grinding and custom mods to go before I waste any time doing that.
The bolts you can see poking in will all have to be replaced with custom pins that will all be aligned and levelled, as well as some strategic bends in the hinge arms themselves, but it lifts and lowers with the faceplate in a good position out of my line of sight while open and a snug seal on the cheek and jaw when closed.
I've also welded a small tab on one of the hinges for the cable to pull the faceplate open. I haven't decided if I am going to have that cable relax against a spring to return, or just have a return cable to pull the faceplate down again.
I will experiment.
1. Side view. The screws will be replaced with flush pins and will not be seen in the finished helmet.
2. Even though the bolts have not been trimmed, I was surprised that when wearing it, they still did not contact my face when closed. I'm still going to replace and shorten them though.
3. Here you can see the rear boomerang hinge on the right side of the picture has a little extra tab welded on the end for the cable to attach.
4&5. Rough placement/position of the cable and hinge positions when open and closed.
Now you can see why I have been reluctant to grind back everything to a nice finish. There's still a bit of fiddling, cutting, grinding and custom mods to go before I waste any time doing that.
sandbagger
Master Member
^^^ Thanks guys.
Arc reactor nearly done. Just got to do the copper windings and install one illuminating strip. The inside of the body has reactor-grade reflective tape so that when the strip lights go in, they will double the refraction by reflecting the outward-facing LED's back into the acrylic body.
I've varied the light output in the photos from bright to dim so you can see the detail.
Arc reactor nearly done. Just got to do the copper windings and install one illuminating strip. The inside of the body has reactor-grade reflective tape so that when the strip lights go in, they will double the refraction by reflecting the outward-facing LED's back into the acrylic body.
I've varied the light output in the photos from bright to dim so you can see the detail.
sandbagger
Master Member
I got stuck into it straight away tonight, winding and installing the transformers.
After winding them all I put the last one through the end of my thumb. Lots of blood and a few swear words because I had to stop to patch up my thumb, then use it to unwind the broken wire and redo it. However, the transformers are done!
Now a drop of solder between each to complete the circuit and add the final strip light.
After winding them all I put the last one through the end of my thumb. Lots of blood and a few swear words because I had to stop to patch up my thumb, then use it to unwind the broken wire and redo it. However, the transformers are done!
Now a drop of solder between each to complete the circuit and add the final strip light.
sandbagger
Master Member
Electronics work begins! Exciting times!!! To tell you the truth my electronic skill is pretty limited... 
I'm a bit worried by all this and hope I can do it.
Success!!!!
LED strip installed on inner acrylic body.
Powered up.
Full power! Notice now how the outer ring is illuminated where in previous photos it is dark? Mission accomplished before midnight...That's a novelty.
Sometimes you gotta run before you can walk.
I'm a bit worried by all this and hope I can do it.
Success!!!!
LED strip installed on inner acrylic body.
Powered up.
Full power! Notice now how the outer ring is illuminated where in previous photos it is dark? Mission accomplished before midnight...That's a novelty.
Sometimes you gotta run before you can walk.
sandbagger
Master Member
I just found some stepper motors hidden away in the back of my shed. I wonder if I can use these to pull the cables for the face-plate.
sandbagger
Master Member
^^^ Ta mate.
Part of my intent on this build is to illustrate to others that there are many ways to skin a cat.
I don't always have access to a lathe, mill and an engineer to help me, so I have to come up with creative ways to fabricate parts that would otherwise be turned and machined.
This is an imprint an overhead projector lens in clay-sand and filled with aluminium. It's for the chest piece to frame the arc reactor. After a clean up and sand it should be pretty good.
Part of my intent on this build is to illustrate to others that there are many ways to skin a cat.
I don't always have access to a lathe, mill and an engineer to help me, so I have to come up with creative ways to fabricate parts that would otherwise be turned and machined.
This is an imprint an overhead projector lens in clay-sand and filled with aluminium. It's for the chest piece to frame the arc reactor. After a clean up and sand it should be pretty good.
sandbagger
Master Member
Aluminium ring all cleaned up.
Fits nicely over the reactor lens.
- - - Updated - - -
A couple of hours in a stinking hot tin shed carving fine details ready for casting in aluminium tonight.
Using blocks of household insulation foam.
A bit of patience with an exacto knife and some sandpaper.
Burying a couple of M6 studs in the foam to be cast inclusive.
Some of the neck details to set it apart from the rest.
Fits nicely over the reactor lens.
- - - Updated - - -
A couple of hours in a stinking hot tin shed carving fine details ready for casting in aluminium tonight.
Using blocks of household insulation foam.
A bit of patience with an exacto knife and some sandpaper.
Burying a couple of M6 studs in the foam to be cast inclusive.
Some of the neck details to set it apart from the rest.
sandbagger
Master Member
I'm a bit nervous about this pour. Pretty fine detail and ages spent carving the pieces. I'll try to get the aluminium way above melting temp to see if it gets right into the corners.
Here you can see all the parts with the inlet and breather sprues glued on, then buried in compressed green-sand.
Here you can see all the parts with the inlet and breather sprues glued on, then buried in compressed green-sand.
sandbagger
Master Member
A video of the aluminium casting.
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sandbagger
Master Member
Three worked perfectly, one not quite all the way to the end, one lost a leg, two studs didn't embed and one piece didn't come out at all. I'll use the ones that worked and make the others out of sheet aluminium instead. Failures teach more than success.
Polishing up ok. I have a bit to fix, but I'm happy I at least made some progress tonight.
Polishing up ok. I have a bit to fix, but I'm happy I at least made some progress tonight.
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