halopepakura
Well-Known Member
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Sandbagger's Iron-Man builds - Now in STEEL
- Thread starter sandbagger
- Start date
sandbagger
Master Member
BRILLIANT! Just call Ron Sandbagger from now on.
I figured the first kid to get a ring should be my three and a half year old boy.
I still think the head is twice as big as it needs to be, which is too small for my tooling to do. Also there are problems with skin allergies and the dangers of strong metal rings on kids hands. Metal rings are really only for adults in my humble opinion.
So, I think if I am going to continue, its time to design them with a split in the ring for safety and 3D print them in plastic.
stigmorgan
Sr Member
You could cast them without the ring and insert a magnet in back, or make them as key chains with a clasp so the kids can hang them anything hey want, bags/belts/keys etc
Honus
Sr Member
Platinum melts at 1,768°C
It also needs to be cast in an inert atmosphere. I work with that stuff every day.
Plastic is definitely best for kids. For adults I'd cast them in stainless steel. You can do a bunch of them in one shot and it's a lot less expensive than silver.
sandbagger
Master Member
It also needs to be cast in an inert atmosphere. I work with that stuff every day.
Plastic is definitely best for kids. For adults I'd cast them in stainless steel. You can do a bunch of them in one shot and it's a lot less expensive than silver.
My forge doesn't get hot enough to melt Stainless. It needs to get over twice the temperature to melt Aluminium and then some.
I think I'll give it a rest for now. It was a good experience and experiment. Toying with the idea has shown me how much time it takes to make one, (too long) with the actual clean-up and sizing of the finger hole taking forever!
If and when I decide to continue down this road, I will find a local 3D printer to run me off a batch or two. Kids are kids and they will love a little memento, plastic or not.
Thanks for all your feedback blokes.
SB.
Honus
Sr Member
Sorry, I should have been more clear. What I meant was take it to a foundry to have castings done. I had a friend do this with some stainless pendants he made. They typically charge by the flask size so it comes down to however many pieces you can fit in a single flask. Beats the heck out of casting multiples yourself in metal.
And yes making rings does take forever! I remember many years ago I did a run of Green Lantern rings and there was a pretty big size range I had to deal with. Cleaning up castings, finishing and painting those was a boatload of work...
And yes making rings does take forever! I remember many years ago I did a run of Green Lantern rings and there was a pretty big size range I had to deal with. Cleaning up castings, finishing and painting those was a boatload of work...
sandbagger
Master Member
I turned the bigger one into a key ring by attaching a brass plate to the back of it.
I've concluded that the time taken to carve a model, cut up scrap aluminium, mixing sand, casting, clean up, detail, polishing and attaching back-plate/sizing finger diameter etc is far too long. I know there are ways to shave time, but it's really not worth it to do by hand.
Back to the suit.
SB.
I've concluded that the time taken to carve a model, cut up scrap aluminium, mixing sand, casting, clean up, detail, polishing and attaching back-plate/sizing finger diameter etc is far too long. I know there are ways to shave time, but it's really not worth it to do by hand.
Back to the suit.
SB.
sandbagger
Master Member
Progress on the arc reactor,
I have decided to build a modified arc reactor based on a couple of guidelines I think are important. As this unit is only going to be visible from the front and not designed to be removed from the suit, the appearance from the front is paramount while appearance from the sides and back is irrelevant.
The other thing is that reference material shows each of the transformers around the outside of the reactor appear to be shorted out at every piece. To give scientific and electrical credibility to this miniaturised power-plant, I will be winding the coils in a continuous power feed line from one transformer to the next.
We have built the main body out of solid acrylic, turned and recessed to fit all the internal brass and aluminium components and illumination. parts of the acrylic will be transparent to let light through in the right places while other facets will be semi-opaque to diffuse the light and give the appearance of massive amounts of stored energy.
We still have the outer ring and transformers/electromagnets to go. More on that soon.
I have decided to build a modified arc reactor based on a couple of guidelines I think are important. As this unit is only going to be visible from the front and not designed to be removed from the suit, the appearance from the front is paramount while appearance from the sides and back is irrelevant.
The other thing is that reference material shows each of the transformers around the outside of the reactor appear to be shorted out at every piece. To give scientific and electrical credibility to this miniaturised power-plant, I will be winding the coils in a continuous power feed line from one transformer to the next.
We have built the main body out of solid acrylic, turned and recessed to fit all the internal brass and aluminium components and illumination. parts of the acrylic will be transparent to let light through in the right places while other facets will be semi-opaque to diffuse the light and give the appearance of massive amounts of stored energy.
We still have the outer ring and transformers/electromagnets to go. More on that soon.
sandbagger
Master Member
This is what an hour of buffing aluminium looks like!
sandbagger
Master Member
Work continues on the arc reactor. Fired it up today with 50% of it's illumination in place. Machining of the electromagnetic receivers next.
There are many great machinists out there, but it really makes a difference when you can be in the workshop with them to consult on every aspect of how you want it to look, what you want to achieve and how you are prepared to compromise to arrive at the end result.
Without housing.
With housing.
Powered down.
There are many great machinists out there, but it really makes a difference when you can be in the workshop with them to consult on every aspect of how you want it to look, what you want to achieve and how you are prepared to compromise to arrive at the end result.
Without housing.
With housing.
Powered down.
Ninjapatato
New Member
Great work! As i was looking at your pictures i noticed that your paper models were perfect, no gaps or anything messed up. I was wondering what glue you used to do that? I have tried many glues and the seem to always interfere with the model.
sandbagger
Master Member
If you are talking about the paper/pepakura/fibreglass suit I built, I used PVA wood glue for the pep. I started with super glue but found it wasn't always the best thing to use. PVA much better. The cardboard suit I built was all hot-glue.
Ninjapatato
New Member
Thanks so much for he feed back! I will definetely try out pva glue. Super glue made my hands all messed up and stuff and hot glue makes it really thick so I will try out pva. Thanks.
stigmorgan
Sr Member
The advantage with pva is that it doesnt dry instantly so you have 20-30 seconds to get the position perfect and it doesnt increase the thickness of the material. Plus if you buy it from a builders merchant it canqbe very cheap.
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