Saber Parts Rusted Together... HELP!

[Jedi Reali]

I know when restoring cars, rusted parts can separated by soaking in Marvel Mystery Oil. Good stuff. Probably the same result as PB Blaster. Have you let it soak all this time and still not coming apart?

Unfortunately with heat, brass expands much faster than steel. Heating the outside is just going to cause the brass to expand too. Desperation - maybe set ice on top of the brass and heat the steel part with a torch. It's going to be tough though.

Once you get it all apart: Simple Green will de-grease and rinse with water. Barricade or some sort of gun coating will keep surface rust out. Anti-sieze for threads and it'll never happen again.

Product links. Most you can find locally in auto parts stores.
http://www.amazon.com/Marvel-MM13R-Mystery-Oil-oz/dp/B0009JKGJW
http://www.amazon.com/Simple-Green-SPG13012-Degreaser-Deodorizer/dp/B00DORUJS4
www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Barricade-Preventive-Aerosol/dp/B004I9MFHU
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80078-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Bottle/dp/B000AAJTXY

Great info, thanks!

I have had it soaking all this time. And by soaking I don't mean it's submerged in the stuff... I just sprayed it liberally on both sides of the joint area, rolled it around and sealed it in a plastic bag. I'm trying WD40 now, maybe I'll try that Mystery stuff next if this doesn't work.

 

[rogerrabt]

Another penetrating oil is Kroil.

http://www.amazon.com/Kano-Kroil-Penetrating-liquid-KROIL/dp/B000F09CF4

Heat is really the last option when dealing with brass. It may deform or worse, crack, because you really need to get it up to red hot and try and keep the brass cool. Fill a can with MMOil or Kroil and let it soak and soak and soak.

 

[Romans Empire]

I can't for the life of me get one of the grenades separated from its windvane stem, and I've started to gouge the top of the stem a little while trying. I gripped them with vice grips over leather, and later tried vice grips over rubber (bicycle inner tube), and the pliers managed to bite through both.

Have you tried sticking a thin rod or allen-wrench through the vent holes in the windvane? Hang on to the frag body... and use the allen-wrench to help turn the windvane.

Should be a piece of cake

 

[Jedi Reali]

Have you tried sticking a thin rod or allen-wrench through the vent holes in the windvane? Hang on to the frag body... and use the allen-wrench to help turn the windvane.

Should be a piece of cake

I will try that after its next soak. :thumbsup

 

[thd9791]

I'll also say things like Briwax, Johnsons paste wax and other furniture wax work well at sealing items. Buffing them with a cloth means theres no wax residue and the prop is sealed, I used three kinds of black/brown paste wax on my ANH DL-44 to preserve the Blued and weathered finish.

A clear coat works too, not gloss, never gloss. Matte clear (or even polyurethane) spray. I did this on my Obi Wan saber so I can handle the real parts.

 

[matty matt]

Have you tried sticking a thin rod or allen-wrench through the vent holes in the windvane? Hang on to the frag body... and use the allen-wrench to help turn the windvane.

Should be a piece of cake

This is what I meant when I said to put a screwdriver through the stem. Roman' explanation was a little better. As for maintenance, periodically oiling the grenades will keep it from happening again.

And you should probably stop showering with them.

 

[Mr Mold Maker]

Russrep?

More like Rustrep, am I right? :lol

Okay, moving on. I can also recommend Johnson's Paste Wax for sealing. Hit it lightly with a hair dryer after you've applied it and it will get nice and flowy. Use a brush to get into hard to reach areas and then buff it off. Should seal it off pretty well.