Saber Parts Rusted Together... HELP!

Jedi Reali

Sr Member
Welp, I done messed it up.

So a lot of my belongings wound up in my brother's attic several years ago, during a hasty move. I had since removed sensitive items from the attic to a safer place, but some things slipped through the cracks. I thought I'd relocated all of my sabers, but this evening I made a grim discovery. My Russrep parts. Covered in rust. I can't believe I missed this one box, of all boxes. :(

One steel grenade is sealed to its brass windvane.

A second steel grenade is sealed to a brass windvane on one end, and an aluminum clamp spacer on the other end.

A steel balance pipe has an aluminum cone sealed inside it, and of course the two parts of the balance pipe are sealed together.

rusty Obi-1.jpg

The rust is serious.

Two things. I'd like to be able to get the parts apart again, but I also would like to get rid of most of the rust simply because this was not how I intended to weather these pieces. Is there something I can soak these in that will do the trick? I really wanna get them apart again so I can weather each piece separately, and be able to align them how I want.

Additionally, I have another aluminum clamp spacer that was not in the attic, but has acquired some sort of corrosion on it. Should I be concerned about this spreading to my Graflex clamp in the future? How would I clean this?

rusty Obi-2.jpg

Really bummed here. Hoping there's a solution to this.
 
Try to soak the parts in WD40 (spray and put them in a sealed bag) OR use special rust removing liquid/ paste

then clean the parts with a wire brush and start drooling about the natural weathering you archieved ;)

Markus
 
Wow ... that's awesome natural weathering .... kuddo's on your brother's attic ... must be damp or something ... I love it :)

To remove any rust i.e. that emitter ... try Coca Cola ... gently ;)

Chaim
 
Try heat for the cheapest way. Heating the parts to red hot will get them apart, and in most cases, "melt" the rust away. The parts will heat differently, being made of two different materials.
I have also heard that if you place the parts in the freezer for (say) 24 hours, you won't have to heat them to red hot. But one has to think about cracking with this method...

I have found that evaporust is really good, and available at most hardware stores, and car places as well, and goes for around $10 or less. Go to amazon and find it for around $8 + shipping. You will need to de-grease them if you used WD-40. Just follow the instructions. This is eco-friendly, and bio-degradable.

Also, I have also heard about a method soaking them in inhibited hydrochloric acid after you de-grease them (if you used the WD-40) and the acid will attack the rust. But you'll have to neutralize the acid, wear gloves, maybe a mask..... Nasty stuff.
 
Ha... When I read the title I immediately thought it would be great if they were Obi grenades. They look great!

If that's not how you want them to look, you could probably unload in the junkyard rusted as is, and just get new ones from roman.
 
Thanks, everyone! I'm so relieved to hear that it's still possible to separate them. When I actually get around to working on this I'll post an update.

Ha, I knew some people would think they look great. ;) Long as I can get em apart the natural weathering may be a blessing in disguise. I wanna go for a blacker look though for the steel parts. What would happen if I used something like Permablue overtop of rust?
 
Art Andrews also did a thread on the rpf a while back caller 'derusting a webley flare gun - science is cool'. You should check it out.
 
You could also try Break Free CLP. Works great to keep guns properly lubricated, high carbon steel swords from rusting, and break free rusted components like these.
 
agreed with soak in WD40, then I actually use brass polish to make pretty. There is also a New ENgland somethingoranother polish that is a can full of soaked rags that polished metal up nice and remove rust, but fist take the major chunks off with a good oil soak.
 
Your plight is home to some serious info. When rust is cleaned off, what can you do to prevent rust from forming again? Will your parts just always be greasy?
 
A little update... I've gotten most of these parts separated using PB Blaster, but one of them still plagues me. I can't for the life of me get one of the grenades separated from its windvane stem, and I've started to gouge the top of the stem a little while trying. I gripped them with vice grips over leather, and later tried vice grips over rubber (bicycle inner tube), and the pliers managed to bite through both.

Just today I finally was able to get the cone out of the balance pipe. After soaking it in PB Blaster I placed it face down between two pieces of wood and hit it with a hammer, pushing it out by the threaded bit at the bottom. The two parts of the balance pipe are still sealed together but I'm ok with that.

Here are some updated pics. They look pretty nice with all the rust removed, and no new rust has begun to form since I cleaned them. They still need a little more weathering work before they'll get to where I want em but they're off to a nice start anyway.

If anyone has any suggestions on how to better grip the windvane stem to try and turn it I'm all ears.

Oh also, can anyone tell me what the proper depth is for setting a Russrep cone inside a balance pipe? I could eyeball it but I wonder if there's a consensus on how many millimeters.

RealiRussrepParts-1.jpgRealiRussrepParts-2.jpg
 
Those parts ended up looking great. I would soak the end of the grenade/stem in some WD-40 for a while and let the oil penetrate into the threads. It may help loosen them up. Also, put a screwdriver through that hole in the stem and use it as a handle to get leverage. Be gentle with that brass though.
 
A little update... I've gotten most of these parts separated using PB Blaster, but one of them still plagues me. I can't for the life of me get one of the grenades separated from its windvane stem


OMG THAT'S BECAUSE IT'S STILL LIVE!! CALL THE BOMB SQUAD!

I kid.

Not sure if it was mentioned above, but I've found putting jammed parts in the freezer over night sometimes helps. I also put household oil in the seams of things that seem impossibly sealed, set it aside for a few days, and let the oil seep in via microscopic openings.

The main thing you need is patience. (which I have zero of). A lot of time it's tiny movements, and letting them sit with some sort of lubricant.
 
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Soaking the parts in white vinegar works extremely well for removing rust but beware, certain types of metal will start to dissolve. I did this with the parts that bolt a horseshoe brake to a bicycle as well as the goose neck parts of a bicycle. After a few days soaking the rust just wiped right off however a few parts were ruined. The parts that dissolved were the small round parts with a half-pipe channel in them that pins up against the brake spring (most likely made from pot metal) and the angled nut that pins up against the bottom of the goose neck stem to pin the goose neck inside the forks. All other parts were perfectly fine.
 
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I know when restoring cars, rusted parts can separated by soaking in Marvel Mystery Oil. Good stuff. Probably the same result as PB Blaster. Have you let it soak all this time and still not coming apart?

Unfortunately with heat, brass expands much faster than steel. Heating the outside is just going to cause the brass to expand too. Desperation - maybe set ice on top of the brass and heat the steel part with a torch. It's going to be tough though.

Once you get it all apart: Simple Green will de-grease and rinse with water. Barricade or some sort of gun coating will keep surface rust out. Anti-sieze for threads and it'll never happen again.

Product links. Most you can find locally in auto parts stores.
http://www.amazon.com/Marvel-MM13R-Mystery-Oil-oz/dp/B0009JKGJW
http://www.amazon.com/Simple-Green-SPG13012-Degreaser-Deodorizer/dp/B00DORUJS4
www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Barricade-Preventive-Aerosol/dp/B004I9MFHU
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80078-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Bottle/dp/B000AAJTXY
 
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