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Limited Run RUN CLOSED * DL-44 ESB Blaster Machined Parts Set * RUN CLOSED
- Thread starter Boba Debt
- Start date
Curmudgeon
Well-Known Member
Re: DL-44 ESB Blaster Active Project
Getting really excited for this project :cool
Getting really excited for this project :cool
Boba Debt
Master Member
Re: DL-44 ESB Blaster Active Project
I would like to use one of my Accuruzed Denix Mausers for my own personal ESB Blaster and Alberto has offered to buy my MGC based ESB Blaster built from my last AP, but he wanted me to update it a bit.
I worked on the left side details and this is what I came up with.
I know the flash hider is wrong for this version but it will get replaced, along with the scope bracket.
What do you guys think of the left side details so far?
As a group do we want Vince to modify a resin Moto/Coil part and make molds of it or do we want to modify them on our own?
I would like to use one of my Accuruzed Denix Mausers for my own personal ESB Blaster and Alberto has offered to buy my MGC based ESB Blaster built from my last AP, but he wanted me to update it a bit.
I worked on the left side details and this is what I came up with.
I know the flash hider is wrong for this version but it will get replaced, along with the scope bracket.
What do you guys think of the left side details so far?
As a group do we want Vince to modify a resin Moto/Coil part and make molds of it or do we want to modify them on our own?
Last edited:
ataru72ita
Sr Member
Re: DL-44 ESB Blaster Active Project
Love it! Can't wait to apply one of the three Hoth flash hiders and the real scope waiting at Scott's!
Regards,
Alberto
Love it! Can't wait to apply one of the three Hoth flash hiders and the real scope waiting at Scott's!
Regards,
Alberto
kev011
New Member
Re: DL-44 ESB Blaster Active Project
Are the greeblies going to be resin or is there a chance, since the scope is being cast in metal, to add these pieces to the mold run to have an all metal blaster?
I keep thinking how cool the ANH blaster looks from DE with that front grille done in aluminum as opposed to a resin piece.
Are the greeblies going to be resin or is there a chance, since the scope is being cast in metal, to add these pieces to the mold run to have an all metal blaster?
I keep thinking how cool the ANH blaster looks from DE with that front grille done in aluminum as opposed to a resin piece.
Re: DL-44 ESB Blaster Active Project
Alright I've been mulling this over for a while. We kind of backed ourselves into a corner with last year's plaque. Since the Vintage SW logos aren't consistent, it is difficult to keep a consistent look with the plaques. Here is last year's for reference:
There is no ESB logo like that. Trying to fake it looks stupid:
Using the ESB logos out there we have the following options:
Anybody have any ideas?
Alright I've been mulling this over for a while. We kind of backed ourselves into a corner with last year's plaque. Since the Vintage SW logos aren't consistent, it is difficult to keep a consistent look with the plaques. Here is last year's for reference:
There is no ESB logo like that. Trying to fake it looks stupid:
Using the ESB logos out there we have the following options:
Anybody have any ideas?
Boba Debt
Master Member
Re: DL-44 ESB Blaster Active Project
Which Greeblies are you referring to?
How would it look if you made it as wide as the ROTJ Plaque sort of like this, you could even add a dropped decender to the "B" in BACK to mimic the "J" in Jedi
Which Greeblies are you referring to?
How would it look if you made it as wide as the ROTJ Plaque sort of like this, you could even add a dropped decender to the "B" in BACK to mimic the "J" in Jedi
Re: DL-44 ESB Blaster Active Project
Richard: Bottom one looks great!
As for the greeblies... black resin or plastic is best. Metal means you have to paint them... and they they will wear to metal under... which isn't accurate and is way more a pain in the booty.
Actually the BEST DEC grill is the one you could make from three radial parts cut up like the original. It never wears to an incorrect color.
I prefer black resin or plastic.
Richard: Bottom one looks great!
As for the greeblies... black resin or plastic is best. Metal means you have to paint them... and they they will wear to metal under... which isn't accurate and is way more a pain in the booty.
Actually the BEST DEC grill is the one you could make from three radial parts cut up like the original. It never wears to an incorrect color.
I prefer black resin or plastic.
kev011
New Member
Re: DL-44 ESB Blaster Active Project
I was referring to the Revell model parts. Understanding of what they originally were, yes, plastics are the most accurate. The debate of which would wear better, they would have been originally painted black anyway, so that argument is moot. I was thinking about the attachment of them would be better to silver solder or braze parts on rather than a glue or epoxy.
I was referring to the Revell model parts. Understanding of what they originally were, yes, plastics are the most accurate. The debate of which would wear better, they would have been originally painted black anyway, so that argument is moot. I was thinking about the attachment of them would be better to silver solder or braze parts on rather than a glue or epoxy.
Re: DL-44 ESB Blaster Active Project
I can try that. I figured there would be a desire to stick with an actual ESB logo but we can see what it looks like. Totally up to you.
I can try that. I figured there would be a desire to stick with an actual ESB logo but we can see what it looks like. Totally up to you.
Re: DL-44 ESB Blaster Active Project
I don't hate this...I thought I would.
I don't hate this...I thought I would.
Re: DL-44 ESB Blaster Active Project
kev011
New Member
Re: DL-44 ESB Blaster Active Project
Hmm… Guess that depends on what Mauser you are referring to, perhaps a Denix? I'm planning on a real Mauser just for this project. You certainly can use silver solder on them and I believe there are silver solders or brazing sticks designed specifically to work on the potmetal like make up of the reproductions. These are often used in automotive restorations on old cast parts that break or crack.
That's fine, I just thought I'd bring it up since it would be minimal materials to add to larger casting runs, so to do them at the same time would have been ideal. Just asking since I believe I read a few folks who were planning on live fire versions. Having parts that were on more securely would be more ideal to hold up to solvents, oils, temperatures and jarring or bucking of recoil.
Hmm… Guess that depends on what Mauser you are referring to, perhaps a Denix? I'm planning on a real Mauser just for this project. You certainly can use silver solder on them and I believe there are silver solders or brazing sticks designed specifically to work on the potmetal like make up of the reproductions. These are often used in automotive restorations on old cast parts that break or crack.
That's fine, I just thought I'd bring it up since it would be minimal materials to add to larger casting runs, so to do them at the same time would have been ideal. Just asking since I believe I read a few folks who were planning on live fire versions. Having parts that were on more securely would be more ideal to hold up to solvents, oils, temperatures and jarring or bucking of recoil.
Curmudgeon
Well-Known Member
Re: DL-44 ESB Blaster Active Project
The plaques and side details look great!
Will you do a plaque for the Luke blasters as well?
The plaques and side details look great!
Will you do a plaque for the Luke blasters as well?
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