Revisiting the Training Remote

I have one of those too .... as it is, I'm not to thrilled about it .. It keeps loosing alignment, so the radius either gets bigger or smaller ...... but I think a couple of glued on ABS strips would keep it aligned .. hmmm perhaps I should try that.. a lot of circular cuttings in a couple of upcoming projects :)

Found out yesterday, that there are two versions of the Olfa cutter. A crappy one (the one that I have) and a great, more sturdy one, which I borrowed at a buildingsession yesterday. I Can totally recommend the sturdy one :)
 
Re: Build Diary: Revisiting the Jedi Training Remote

I started my own Training Remote yesterday.... I've taken the vac-form approach as Frank recommended, for the styrene-details ..... I really can only recommend this approach, because it'll result in a super-snug fit of the styrene detail

1_11_06_12_10_49_38_0.jpg


(A big thanks to Moe for help with the vac-forming)

(And I promise, no more hijacking of Nighteyes' thread .... I promise to start my own thread, once I get a bit further with the project :D )
 
Re: Build Diary: Revisiting the Jedi Training Remote

You did it!

Just check the dates a few pages back to see how long we've been talking about vac'ed hemis.

Had my own remote at Wonderfest this year so some of you guys might have seen it.
 
Thanks to Paul's tip I have cast nearly everything I need for the project. That Elmers worked like a charm! But before you get a peak at my duplicates why not take a moment to review those Tamiya parts like I promised.

Hi Nighteyes.

I'm sorry to bring now an issue that you mentioned four years ago, but I'm always trying to learn new techniques.

What's Paul's Tip that you reference in that old post? :confused

Very good work with your Training Remote.

Rafa
 
Hey Rafa,

When I made my molds from silicon it bonded with the double sided tape I had used to hold the parts in place. The tip was to brush on Elmer's white glue over the tape to prevent this from happening.

I very lightly weathered my remote but I continue to work on matching the original spot for spot, so in my mind it is still unfinished.
 
Ok, I get it.
And I find it very useful that advice because I also use double sided tape to attach the pieces to be molded.

Many thanks.:)
Rafa
 
what measurements did you guys use for the inner and outer diameter of the rings? I used 23mm (inner) and 46mm (outer) as stated in Franks tutorial ..... I should have seen it right away, that these numbers doesn't add up, since the outer diameter of the rim is 23mm ... the the inner diameter of the styrenering should be closer to 30mm and the outer diameter should be somewhere between 46-52mm

Oh well ... I need to make some new rings .. glad we made a couple of extra vac-pulls :D
 
Did some new measurements, plus got some measurements from Franks rotocasting .... this gives me the following measurements

Rim: 23mm

Inner diameter: 32mm

Outer diameter: 54mm



what measurements did you guys use for the inner and outer diameter of the rings? I used 23mm (inner) and 46mm (outer) as stated in Franks tutorial ..... I should have seen it right away, that these numbers doesn't add up, since the outer diameter of the rim is 23mm ... the the inner diameter of the styrenering should be closer to 30mm and the outer diameter should be somewhere between 46-52mm

Oh well ... I need to make some new rings .. glad we made a couple of extra vac-pulls :D
 
I started with Franks measurements, referenced one of his rotocast kits, and finally eyeballed some adjustments. I am traveling at the moment but when I get back tomorrow I'll measure what I've got on mine. Fairly certain it's very close if not dead on.
 
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Mine are measuring about 56mm for the outside diameter. I recall the original being slightly irregular in regards to geometry and placement.
 
Mine are measuring about 56mm for the outside diameter. I recall the original being slightly irregular in regards to geometry and placement.

Quick question .... how did you measure the ring.. and did you measure a mounted (curved ring) or a flat, cut ring?

Because this will have a lot to say on the outer diameter (see pic) ... so is 56mm measured along the curved surface (#2) or measured in a straight line with e.g. a caliper (#1)
 
I've just made some remeasuring... and I think the outer diameter on the curved ring, measured with a caliper (#1) should be roughly 53mm... this would compare pretty good to a 55-56mm ring cut from a flat piece of styrene and then bend'n'curved
 
I measured with the curve by marking a piece of tape on the remote and then laying it flat. I still think its closer to 55.5 than 56.
 
what measurements did you guys use for the inner and outer diameter of the rings? I used 23mm (inner) and 46mm (outer) as stated in Franks tutorial ..... I should have seen it right away, that these numbers doesn't add up, since the outer diameter of the rim is 23mm ... the the inner diameter of the styrenering should be closer to 30mm and the outer diameter should be somewhere between 46-52mm

Oh well ... I need to make some new rings .. glad we made a couple of extra vac-pulls :D


46mm ring....cut in the middle, spread apart by 7mm = 53mm Which is Ballpark, just like the article says. (They end up being closer to 55/56 dont ask me while its a FLAT thing glued on a ROUND thing mystery, which is why I suggest the vacuum formed version)

I'll edit it to make it more clear because I can understand the confusion.
Any other suggestions for the tutorial are also welcome.

;-)

Frank
 
That's the same one I used, and yes it has all of the rims. Keep in mind the original remote uses 4 truck rims with lugs, and 4 without... so don't be alarmed when you open the box. You do need them like that.

The Kenworths with the axle brackets you need have the rims too, but the Midnight Express was the only one I was able to find at the time that included all 8 chromed. So if you don't mind painting a couple, I'd say don't waste the loot on an extra kit.
 
right on, thanks for the info! this thread has been extreamly helpful. Im a bit late to the game of prop bulding and this will be my first so im very excited about getting started on this.
 
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