Retro / Steampunk raygun - Finished! Showoff thread

DARTH SABER

Master Member
Well, after driving myself crazy, for over month trying to find the spare time, and the supplies I needed, I finally finished my Retro Steampunk ray gun.

A big thanks to all the RPF member who helped me out with tips and suggestions....And a big thanks to DropshipBob, who volunteered and supplied me with the grip for the ray gun (Had it not been for him, I'd probably still be driving around town trying to find the right wood, and I'd probably still be trying to cut it with my primative tools.

Now, on to the raygun -

This is the ZX-1933 Cosmic Viper Atomic Obliterator-

The gun is equipped with an internal centrefuge and reactor which produces a concetrated conical beam capable obliterating almost any object.
The weapon comes with an interchangable, side mounted lead containment unit which transfers the Uraniam 238 to the internal reactor through a lead lined copper walled coil.
The reaction process creates an incredible amount of heat, so a cooling unit is need. The cooling tube is located at the top rear of the gun. The special cooling liquid (Classified) is injected into the reactor through a suction created by the atomic reaction.
The beam from the gun remains a constant as long as the user keeps the trigger pulled. However, a constant beam for a prolonged period of time will cuase the internal hardware to overheat, thus resulting in a meltdown and possible explosion (which in turn would destroy 3 square miles , along with the user.). A temperature guage has been added to the top of the raygun to keep the user informed of the internal temperature.
During the special reaction process, a certain amount of oxygen is needed, which may vary, depending on the planet you are on.
An antenna has been added to the raygun to regulate the amount of oxygen which can be extracted from the atmosphere. The antenna emits electrical waves which indicate the amount of oxygen on your current planet. If no oxygen is available, the raygun computer will make calculations for a substitute gas.
Since the body of the raygun is basically a vaccum tube, oxygen must be obtained though a valve based suction port found on the side of the gun.
Just behind the suction valve is the recharge port plug. After using your raygun for a period of 74 hours, the internal battery will need to be recharged by plugging your recharge port to a power unit.

Regulating the amount of power emitted by the gun can be customized by turning the knurled knob on the side of the gun. There are three settings -
1- Stun
2- Kill
3- Obliterate (Stand at least 50 yards away from target when using this setting.)

BTW, I made all of this crap up on the spot, so try not to be too niutpicky about the details :lol


(For those interested, here's WIP thread - http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=32781 )


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Thanks again everyone....


DS
 
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That looks STUNNING !!

It looks like it came right out of a 1920's Buck Rodgers serial or classic Sci-Fi movie.

I read your build thread with great interest. I know you were going for a kinda-retro-steam-thing, but that looks classic ray gun all the way.

You did an outstanding job, that is a fantastic piece.

Any cool dispaly stand or wall mount for the office?
 
Thanks Guys!

That looks STUNNING !!

It looks like it came right out of a 1920's Buck Rodgers serial or classic Sci-Fi movie.

I read your build thread with great interest. I know you were going for a kinda-retro-steam-thing, but that looks classic ray gun all the way.

Hey James, yeah I was on the fence of how I should paint the gun..A greyish iron color, brass, bronze, etc....I ended up painting about 4 times before I liked the results. In the end I decided to go with more of a Buck Rogers type metal.


You did an outstanding job, that is a fantastic piece.

Any cool dispaly stand or wall mount for the office?

Yeah, since the gun has a recharge port on the side, I, going to build a stand with a power supply. I've already got the greeblies for the stand (Going to use some ribbed wire casings, vaccum tubes from a radio, a few dials, and possibly read out units.


DS
 
AAAAaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah!
Dude.
dude.
Too beautiful...absolutely breathtaking. This is one of my favorite things I've ever seen built on this board.
I'm in awe.
I have only one small criticism / request.
PLEASE apply the same paint treatment that you did to the rest of the gun on the black knurled tube cap. To my eye it sticks out like a black plastic bit that just doesn't belong and it draws me out of the belief that it's a real artifact of a bygone era.
Other than that it's absolutely perfect and a thing of awe-inspiring beauty. Can't wait to see the display and booklet that you come up with.
:thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup

-Rabittooth
 
Awesome work, Pat. Glad to see you were able to finish it off. The paint job came out great. Would you mind giving some details on how you achieved the final, overall look?

Sean
 
Outstanding work! I followed the WIP thread with great expectations, and you certainly delivered! Love the finish. I think it's weathered just perfectly - I like subtle weathering. Also, I like the fact that it's not over-greebled, which is something I think can destroy a good idea. I think Rabbittooth nailed the only nit to pick with it, and it's a really small one.

Now I can't wait to see how your display for it comes out...

Jim
 
That's GREAT! Love the paint job, & the design is perfect. Like MarVell said, it's not "over-greebled". :thumbsup :thumbsup
 
Thanks guys....Ive always wanted a Buck Rogers type gun, so I guess this a little treat for myself. Also, next week my WETA FMOM raygun should be arriving.

I have only one small criticism / request.
PLEASE apply the same paint treatment that you did to the rest of the gun on the black knurled tube cap. To my eye it sticks out like a black plastic bit that just doesn't belong and it draws me out of the belief that it's a real artifact of a bygone era.
Other than that it's absolutely perfect and a thing of awe-inspiring beauty. Can't wait to see the display and booklet that you come up with.
:thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup

-Rabittooth

Thaks Rabbittooth...As for the plastic cap, it seems to be made of some kind of soft plastic (almost rubber), do you think the paint will crack off if I apply it to this piece?

DS
 
Awesome work, Pat. Glad to see you were able to finish it off. The paint job came out great. Would you mind giving some details on how you achieved the final, overall look?

Sean

There were a few times during the painting process where I thought the gun was ruined. I actually painted it about 5 times.

Off the top of my head here's the steps -

I used 2 coats of dark grey auto primer.
After the primer was dry I buffed it with a tight threade piece of cloth

I then applied light grey spray paint.
After the paint was dry I want ahead and did the same routine of buffing it with a cloth (This gives even flat paint a kind of metallic sheen)

Misted it with dark gray paint (Spray can about 4 ft away)

Then a light coat with silver textured paint...The texture was a little over powering so I hit it extra hard with cloth buffing to smooth the bumpy texture.

I then misted the gun (spray paint can about 4 ft away) with antique bronze. Then repeated the buffing process.

After it was dry I took some red oxide acrylic, watered it down a bit and added the rust with a brush. Same technique for the aqua stains.


DS
 
Thaks Rabbittooth...As for the plastic cap, it seems to be made of some kind of soft plastic (almost rubber), do you think the paint will crack off if I apply it to this piece?
DS

Hmmm...there must be a good primer you can use. And truthfully, even if it did crack and even peel a small bit it might be a good look anyway. It'd certainly be better than the black, only because my eye can't see anything but plastic there and it really sort of draws my attention as something out of place.
Also...could you post the artwork you've done in this thread, including any updates to the printed material you're going to display with the piece? :cool

-Rabittooth
 
I've been following this build on a daily basis.
A fantastic result Pat!

So what's next?
 
Wow! I don't know a whole lot about the steampunk genre, but I sure do like what you've built! You've done an outstanding job! It looks very, very cool. I can't wait to see your display for it!
 
Lovely work! I have a minor nit of my own-- the Philips screws. The Philips was patented in '36; I doubt any existed in '33, and if they did, they'd have been used for car manufacture, as that's what they were intended for.
 
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