Replica Terrahawks Sergeant Major Zeroid Build

Z

Zeroid101

New Member
I really should start by saying hello....as I'm new to the forum.

I'd be grateful of any recommendations, tips etc...as to how to improve my build or just feel free to comment.

I'm from across the pond and live in the UK, so some of you may not heard of a Terrahawks. Anyway, one of the leading characters are the "Zeroids".
My build is a replica of "Sergeant Major" which I hope will be fully radio controlled with working eye shutters, moving eye's and eye sockets, opening hatches, flashing mouth unit with phraises from the show.

The build started life like this....
 
Here's a picture of one of the three working original studio "Zeroid" models pictured at a Gerry Anderson Convention.

I'm using this example, as well as book reference material to try and the get the proportions right. I got a friend of mine to calculate the size of the spheres using CAD.
 
Lower sphere while it was clear was cut down by 25mm. I had to allow for the thickness of the two brass machined centre sections, as well as the height of the eye sockets. I then screen matched the holes that spport the brass plates and the internal mouth section which will light up his mouth.
The next step was to use CAD to work out the curve of the mouth mask to match the curve of the sphere. After this was done the mask was applied in position.
Five holes needed drilling out next, two either side, and one to house the dummy speaker below the mouth. The side holes were fitted with the appropriately sizes ABS tube with end caps.

Now it was time for some primering....

Light dusting of grey primer applied, carefully rubbing down each coat before reapplying more primer. Next a coat of black (to prevent light bleeding through from internal lighting). Then a coat of alluminium and a clear gloss coat.

This is how everything looks so far....
 
3mm brass laser cut, routed, drilled plates. Both identical with matching eye shutter channels.

Was disappointed with the edging finish of the laser cut brass. A chunk of the brass on each plate was missing :angry You don't expect this after paying over £175 for each plate!!!!
 
I spent a while correcting the edge of each plate and bringing the quality of finish back to how it should be!

Eye shutters being tested to fit the routed channel.






Question: Does anyone know how I might be able to stop the brass from tarnishing??? Would a clear gloss varnish work???
 
Eye units underway. It took me ages but I tracked down what was originally used for the eye sockets. Turns out they are ABS End Caps from E.M.A. Supplies at Shepperton Studios.
The eye's are ABS Sphere's glued together with a square cut out to fit the block of LED's. Each one mounted on a floating screw and bolt to pivot smoothly left and right. The eye graphics are custom waterslides.
 
Upper section opening panels have been cut-out and hinges fitted. Again just to clarify 25mm was cut of the base of this upper section as well.
Drilled mounting points for the brass plate are done.

I sprayed it using the same method as the lower section. Trimline detailing tape applied to upper section like I did with the lower section (I somehow forget to mention Trimline Tape in my earlier post when I was building the lower section :facepalm ).

Inner gun hatch detailing also pictured.
 
Here's how the two halves look bolted together.

The side wall details I had done in CAD and had them built up using a laser building process.

So far so good....
 
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I have some excellent reference books imported from Japan (Only wish I could read what's written lol).

I held the eye unit in place to check for fit....and yep it fits phew!!!!
 
Seriously amazing work, do recall this show. Have to say that vid of the eye LED function is superb, clinical work, welcome to the RPF :thumbsup

Lee
 
Yes, welcome to the RPF Studio Scale section.

Stunning work there & really brings back memories of this Anderson series.
I loved it at the time & thought the Zeriods were totally cool as were all the Terrahawk craft. Loved the Overlander especially. I believe David Sisson restored this piece to it's former glory.

I agree with the Japanese Anderson books, they are a treasure trove of info, even stating all the donor parts for Thunderbirds etc... , even if you can't understand Japanese:lol.

Oh, thanks for the video link, loved it:)
Stu
 
Very impressive work, so far!

Zeroid101 said:
The side wall details I had done in CAD and had them built up using a laser building process.
Click to expand...

There are actually more pieces from the EMA range tucked in there on the original. The rectangular blocks with a half-round bump on them are column wedges (PW-12 from Plastruct. I think the EMA code is KW-12), and the T-shaped parts are ladder clips.
 
Wow...thanks all for the encouragement :) It's great to hear what other fellow modellers have to say and recommend :thumbsup

I'll definitely have a look at the EMA parts you mentioned JD1, that's brilliant info :thumbsup If you notice anything else from EMA or kit bashing then do let us know.

I have since found out from David Sisson that the original Zeroids were spun from Alluminium, and not from clear acrylic :facepalm So now I have two choices, the first being to carry on with the one's I made in acrylic, or two, to somehow get somebody to make two Spun Alluminium Sphere's for me with laser cut hatch panels???

Any suggestions guy's?
 
Carry on.......the work and effort put in here is astounding, hell, maybe, if it sticks in your craw, you could sell off the acrylic model when done, to fund an all alloy build?
Just a suggestion, but, being clear acrylic detracts nothing from this project, its top drawer!

lee
 
Cheers Ralphee, good idea!

I suppose the only negative point in keeping with the acrylic would be it's less durable than an all alluminium version. And I quite like the idea of the acrylic clear mouth section of my Zeroid too, looks seemless having been in clear acrylic.

I also have the problem with alluminium of finding a reliable company to build me two alluminium halves. And what about the mouth part in alluminium, I'd also have to work out a way casting a clear cast mouth section that would fit perfectly flush and level in the mouth.
 
Here's the latest picture of my Zeroid build so far. The round access panel has now been painted and detailing applied. I hope to be doing some more work once the weather cools off here in ole blighty.
 
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