Rebound 25, klean clay, wed clay, questions!

[Pannaus Props]

Hey guys, since I'm going to give a try at sculpting, I was wondering few things and I didn't find the right answers anywhere.

What's better between wed and klean?
I found both in the UK (i'm in italy) and the wed costs less than the klean.

I'd like to know the following things:

Which is better for (i.e.: iron man helmet) molding with rebound 25 (i got a lot of it stored here)
which is harder?
which is reusable?

I learned that rebound has problems with sulfur clays (plastilina) but I didn't find confirmation that someone has successfully molded something made with oil or wed clays.

Also, is wed hard enough to sustain the brushing layering of a mold?
Do I just have to wait so it hardes by itself or it's hard by itself?
I'm used to plasticine hardness so I have no clue about other clays...
Also...I'm trying to find someone here to teach me the basics, but it's hard...it seems like I have to go through the patrick swayze ghost thing if I want to learn something...

Any advice on all this?
Thanks

(Rich, don't hate me please ahhaha )

 

[NoTsOsErIoUs]

Try contacting this guy. He distributed the stuff in the U.K. at one time, don't know if he still does. But he should be able to tell you all you need to know.

http://www.therpf.com/f24/yes-another-iron-man-wip-xrobots-version-55778/

 

[Ozymandius]

WED is a water clay and will eventually dry out and harden, which will help you in molding, but then it won't be reusable. While moist it is very soft and you'll have a hard time getting sharp edges with it, but once dry you can of course sand it.

Klean Klay is oil based and therefore never hardens, but it is probably the softest oil clay there is. Very bad for sharp details and a pain to handle while molding.

For your application I'd recommend Chavante's NSP clays (Non Sulfar Plastilena). They contain no sulfar, don't harden, but are stiff enough to be handled easily without damaging.

I'd especially recommend NSP Hard as you can get very sharp detail and even lightly sand it to get glassy smooth surfaces. It's stiff enough that you can pick it up and handle it without damaging any of your detail.

Oz

 

[CustomPropSculptorGuy]

Oz hit the nail on the head - However... If you're new to it, go with the NSP Medium... You can still get the crisp lines, but it wont kill you with the heat when it comes to blocking the clay out, and it's somewhat pliable if you need to make a major change...

Also, with WED clay, if you don't wrap it wet, be prepared to be heart broken the next morning. It's great for doing quick, big sculpts, but for something like an Iron Man helmet, again, go with the NSP line. If you go look at my turtle, it's sculpted in NSP Soft.

With Rebound 25, you MUST use a non-sulfur clay, or it wont cure. Just outta curiosity though, how much Rebound do you have "stored" as you say??

 

[Pannaus Props]

ehhehe, tricky question incoming... eheheh, I think I should have 10 lbs in all (I know it's not that much, considering I'm going to use it to mold my 3-pieces-iron man helmet), but I was just wondering.

Anyways, here in italy is very difficult to find NSP, there is a shop in the netherlands that sells them, but its like 10.90 Euros for 2 pounds. RIDICOLOUS!

Any idea if there's someone selling it anywhere in europe?
Thanks guys!

 

[NoTsOsErIoUs]

Only places I know are Tiranti and Mouldlife but both are in the U.K. so it's a question of shipping charges.

 

[Pannaus Props]

Guys, one more question:

can you please provide a good online store located in europe where I can buy modelling tools?

Thanks a lot!

 

[fettster]

I hate you.lol.

I have not used klean clay but wed is pretty much my favorite clay of all time.

you can sculpt mechanical with it if you can get your head around it.

it starts off a very soft clay but as it dries out, if firms up and tools beautifully. if you dont want to wait for it to naturally dry out, you can always hit it with a hair dryer and get it nice and leathery.

you can also help yourself by getting some nice metal scrapers and rubber kidney tools.

its also sulfer free so no problem with the silicone and if you spray it with a couple of coats of laquer before you mould it, you wont have to worry about damage brushing the rubber on.

Bud, you know i got nothing but love for you so email anytime if you get stuck.

also, mouldlife are the cheapest supplier here in the uk

 

[Pannaus Props]

Well I got my hands dirty eventually.
I first tried with regular clay to sculpt a really plain shinguard (to cast and later use as base for my projects) and it was really satifsying...but...it was way too thin and it cracked all over the place. So I switched to NSP Soft from chavant. Switching was like getting a freaking reality check. After getting my first blister on the thumb I decided to heat the NSP.
So now it's easier, but while with regular clay I could get rid of the bumps and depressions really quick and easy, with NSP it's a pain in the neck. It's not about smoothen it, which I understood how, it's about getting the shapes right, trying not to destroy my fingers. I'm thinking that probably regular clay it's the better way to do this, just making thicker I guess. I own no tools at all, and they should get here from the UK in about a week. Right now I'm just using a spatula, but it seems impossible to get the shapes right. Right now, I see no better solution than get all the NSP off (GOOD LUCK TO ME!) and try with clay again.

Any really mind-opening advice on this fellows?
Thanks a lot!

 

[Crusader]

Thanks for the info

 

[Rwdcoupe]

How is van aken plastilina? With rebound25