Razor Crest - 1:34 - Modified/lights - Build log. (pic heavy)

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Jimw100

Well-Known Member
The HasLabs one seems more accurate to the show. Supposedly that thing on top is an escape pod

I kind of stalled on building mine since I wanted to tackle mods to the top. I am just nor sure if I can get them as #d files or if I have to try cutting up the print. My fear with cutting up to print is that the resin may be too brittle for traditional hack jobs

FDM material would probably be better to do that with over resin

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And here are some screen caps I got from the ILM Making of Razor Crest video
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Thanks Analyzer and Hoplitespear - great reference. I think I might have to try and replicate that top detail to some extent, although the sunken part with the radiators is going to be tricky without cutting a big hole in the hull.

I wish I’d noticed this before I printed it all out and stuck it together! Having said that at least I haven’t started painting yet. I need to decide whether to try to 3D model and print a replacement top part, or build it from styrene. I was hoping to be able to just add styrene bits on top, but I think I'll need to grind back the existing raised part first, or it will all stick up too high.
 

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Chuffy 70

Active Member
Is it the same scale as the one from Haslab? If it's bigger, it's the right size !:D Great printer you've got there and, as you said, almost no ridges/lines into your prints. Eager to see your next update(y)(y)
joberg, see this pic as to an answer for your question regarding the scale of the HasLab Crest razor crest scaling nd (2).jpg
 

Chuffy 70

Active Member
Guys according to Chiang, the modellers put a life pod on the Crest during the design stage and it went like this,

"there was great detail in the finished exterior model that Jon really liked. And one day, he asked what it was. 'that's a life pod.' He goes, "well, we don't have a scene for that. Let's just finish it anyway because we may eventually" Chiang - Page 37 of The Art of Star Wars - The Mandalorian.

Plus Hopli, your print is looking good watching with interest (y)
 

Hoplitespear

Sr Member
PART I (due to 20 picture limit)

Hey everyone. A weekend has passed and it was a productive one!!!

First of all thanks you to everyone who posted and liked!

Thanks Analyzer and Hoplitespear - great reference. I think I might have to try and replicate that top detail to some extent, although the sunken part with the radiators is going to be tricky without cutting a big hole in the hull.

I wish I’d noticed this before I printed it all out and stuck it together! Having said that at least I haven’t started painting yet. I need to decide whether to try to 3D model and print a replacement top part, or build it from styrene. I was hoping to be able to just add styrene bits on top, but I think I'll need to grind back the existing raised part first, or it will all stick up too high.
Thank you for the nice comments, and in this post you see 'my rendition' of the top part of the hull.


Guys according to Chiang, the modellers put a life pod on the Crest during the design stage and it went like this,

"there was great detail in the finished exterior model that Jon really liked. And one day, he asked what it was. 'that's a life pod.' He goes, "well, we don't have a scene for that. Let's just finish it anyway because we may eventually" Chiang - Page 37 of The Art of Star Wars - The Mandalorian.

Plus Hopli, your print is looking good watching with interest (y)
Thanks!! I hope you'll enjoy it. And I adjusted my top with the 'life pod' in mind.

Ok here we go!

We got to the point where I was adding detail to the engines. What I did this weekend:

-Added more detail to the engines
-Detailed the nozzles on the inside.
-Primered the engines and sanded them trough four grits.
-Made two diffuse rings for the exhaust
-Put final black primer on the Engines ready for top coat
-Chopped up the top hull
-Rebuild the top hull (about 25% done)

Nozzle detail: Again my own rendition I like the four pistons on the inside, and the upright fins. Gives it more texture for when the lights will be off.

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First reaction after primer was: damn those build lines ARE visible. But it greatly depends on the orientation. If you hold the piece vertically under an LED its very visible. When holding it horizontal in the orientation the model will be they almost disappear.

Either way I decided to give it a very good sanding with my 4 sanding sponges, and leave that as the 'finished project'. I want as much of the 'printed look' gone as possible but not planning on spending weeks on end to get them all gone.

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Two exhaust diffuse rings that go on the outer spacing. These will cover up some orange 3mm LED's in the near future.
Made them from pot lids.

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People can say what they want about 'games workshop citadel black primer' ... it is expensive but it covers and finishes like a boss.

Build lines are still visible with camera flash. But IRL they feel mostly gone and are not distracting or catching the eye at all.

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I got the two Tamiya paints suggested in Analyzer's post. The gunmetal and aluminum ones. (TS-17 & TS38) I will probably finish the engines completely as soon as I have my LED's. To test paint, weathering etc...
 

Hoplitespear

Sr Member
PART II (due to 20 picture limit)

Now for the top hull. (reference in the previous posts)

First off the very boring printed piece. I think the designer must have had no reference when making this. It is the most simple and uninspiring part of the whole printed ship.

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I Joined it up with the back part:

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Took my proxxon and went to town:
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Starting to rebuild:

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I also started on the 'pod':

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That is it! This is where I finished my weekend. Got allot done, can't wait for the LED's to arrive so I can do some finish painting on the first pieces.

Next up is finishing that top hull, adding the tail with the two back red LED's. and then onto the landing gear on the bottom of the same center piece that got the top rebuild.

This is how my workbench looked on sunday evening:
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I hope you enjoyed this progress! More to come!

-Hopli
 

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Jimw100

Well-Known Member
PART II (due to 20 picture limit)

Now for the top hull. (reference in the previous posts)

First off the very boring printed piece. I think the designer must have had no reference when making this. It is the most simple and uninspiring part of the whole printed ship.

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I Joined it up with the back part:

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Took my proxxon and went to town:
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Starting to rebuild:

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I also started on the 'pod':

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That is it! This is where I finished my weekend. Got allot done, can't wait for the LED's to arrive so I can do some finish painting on the first pieces.

Next up is finishing that top hull, adding the tail with the two back red LED's. and then onto the landing gear on the bottom of the same center piece that got the top rebuild.

This is how my workbench looked on sunday evening:
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I hope you enjoyed this progress! More to come!

-Hopli
Looks great, you’re working fast! Also, in the space of one post, you’ve highlighted the main disadvantage (build lines, although to me they look pretty minimal compared to most filament printers) and one key advantage (you can cut ABS fairly easily, whereas no chance of cutting the resin version to fix the top) of filament printing versus resin.
 

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Hoplitespear

Sr Member
Hey everyone!

Thank you again for the nice comments! A quick update before the start of the weekend, another will follow after.

I had a busy week but got some stuff done. I received the LED's in the mail and decided to do the installation immediately. Basically the print provides a channel for LED's to guide them back to the main body.

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Now the type of LED's I use are standard pre-wired 12v LED's. 3 5 and 10mm. In this case a smd led ring would have been better but I decided to stick with what i know.

Since the LED's in the circle around the center exhaust will show hotspots (even with the diffuse ring) a lot of time was spent making sure they where evenly spaced on both exhausts. All wire leads where joined up with the center 10MM LED. and extension wires soldered on, long enough to reach trough the engine - wings and into the body.

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I am very happy with the result and will put allot of time in diffusing as much as I can, but it doesn't look odd since the spacing is even.

I couldn't resist putting some stuff together to give you guys an Idea of the 'look' so far (all pics are made with my phone camera, witch isn't made for this at all but it gives a general idea) :

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After an electric break, back to detailing the top hull, I went ahead and made the radiator fins viewable on the reference. again, my interpretation 'losesly' following the ref.

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I am pretty happy with al this work. The top will look less 'crowded' with some primer. And then I'll move to the landing gear on the very same piece of the model. All going to happen this weekend!


I hope you like this small update :)

-Hopli
 

Jimw100

Well-Known Member
Looks really good. I’m going to steal your ideas for the top hull! I started 3D modelling it but still not sure if it will be easier to print or just build it with styrene.

I think your LEDs will look really good too. I was intending to light up that outer “halo” on mine as well, but ended up sort of accidentally printing the rear of the engines in non-transparent resin, so I’m just using 10mm LEDs in the centre.
 

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Hoplitespear

Sr Member
Looks really good. I’m going to steal your ideas for the top hull! I started 3D modelling it but still not sure if it will be easier to print or just build it with styrene.

I think your LEDs will look really good too. I was intending to light up that outer “halo” on mine as well, but ended up sort of accidentally printing the rear of the engines in non-transparent resin, so I’m just using 10mm LEDs in the centre.
i never tought of modeling it. Might have been a really good idea. Just cutting out a square and plopping in the new part.

I dont think 'no halo lights' will make that much of a difference.

A question! Do you know what color lights go into the tail section? There are two cutouts but I cant find anything online or in the series concerning tail lights. Except for some lego stuff.

I think it might be added by the modeller, but I'm not sure.

-Hopli.
 

Jimw100

Well-Known Member
i never tought of modeling it. Might have been a really good idea. Just cutting out a square and plopping in the new part.

I dont think 'no halo lights' will make that much of a difference.

A question! Do you know what color lights go into the tail section? There are two cutouts but I cant find anything online or in the series concerning tail lights. Except for some lego stuff.

I think it might be added by the modeller, but I'm not sure.

-Hopli.
I used red SMDs for the rear lights - let me have a look and see if I can figure out why I did that! I think I must have found some reference somewhere...

edit: well I’ve looked at all the reference I could find and I think you’re right, there are no rear lights on the ‘real’ razorcrest. I suppose if there were it would make sense for them to be red, both to match the front ones and to follow the theme of the ‘landing lights’ that are on the Millennium Falcon.

interestingly I did notice that there are small red lights on the top of each engine, and possibly on the bottom of each one as well, plus in one of the hangar scenes it looks like there may be white floodlights under the wings. 0FD688BF-18FC-405C-AB2E-D0EAC600CD0E.jpeg
 
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Chuffy 70

Active Member
Hopli, looking good on the l.e.d front - anyone lighting the front of the engines? Episode The Child, after Mando & Kuiil put the Crest back together - they fire up the engines with glows at the front.
Jimw100 - I have seen somewhere too of those rear lights, but cant remember where, re-watched a lot of episodes recently and finding it hard to see them on the screen. Yes to top and bottom of engines for the red lights

keep up the good work
 

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