Ray Gun Show Off Thread!

[tmax]

And another thing...

 

[JFB64]

Now that is cool. Love the rest of the collection too.

 

[Benjo]

Here are two retro ray guns made out of found parts around 2017. They've spent years stored in my dusty workshop so the aging is all natural.
I love building these stuffs.

 

[greenmachines]

Here are two retro ray guns made out of found parts around 2017. They've spent years stored in my dusty workshop so the aging is all natural.
I love building these stuffs.

View attachment 1840238View attachment 1840245

very cool

 

[cloudborn]

I just finished building a 3D print of the Shrink Ray Gun from the Outer Worlds video game. Love this gun design, it's a cross between Dr. Grordbort and other classic/retro sci-fi ray gun designs.

 

[JamesM242]

cloudborn - outstanding job! Thanks for posting!

 

[tmax]

I just finished building a 3D print of the Shrink Ray Gun from the Outer Worlds video game. Love this gun design, it's a cross between Dr. Grordbort and other classic/retro sci-fi ray gun designs.

Stunning! Talk me through that “brass” paint work. I have a Rocketeer helmet to paint and would love to hear your technique.

 

[cloudborn]

Stunning! Talk me through that “brass” paint work. I have a Rocketeer helmet to paint and would love to hear your technique.

Thanks, I really love the way it turned out!

Here's the steps I took for the brass parts...

1 - Primer coat in black, I typically use Tamiya spray can primers.

2 - Base coat in silver, any metallic brand will work.

3 - Color coat using Jumpwind Extra Metal #16 Burnt Gold. This paint line (including Prime Metal) has the best metallic finish when applied in thin coats, much better than Alclad in my opinion. These paints are lacquer-based so allow at least 48hrs for full dry time and adhesion down into the bottom paint layers. They also emit strong vapors so be sure to use a respirator when spraying and something to vent as much of the fumes as possible, i.e. spray booth or open window.

4 - Highlight using Jumpwind Extra Metal #15 Titanium Gold. Apply using light drybrushing technique.

5 - Varnish/seal using Gauzy Gloss Shine Enhancer. This is the best gloss clear that doesn't dull the metallic sheen. It's acrylic and easy to clean up...I used rubbing alcohol but warm water works also.

6 - Base shadow coat using Vallejo Wash FX Dark Grey into all the joints/seams. I tried using Black at first but it was too strong/stark, the dark gray is still very dark but creates a more realistic layered shadow. This wash is acrylic, it spreads easy and quickly but is easy to clean up with warm water. I used a wet pointed-tip cotton swab to ensure the wash didn't spread into areas.

7 - Base grime coat using Mig Ammo Black Pigment. Use a small stiff bristle brush, layer on top of all areas where the shadow coat wash was applied. These pigments are thick, sticky and a small amount spreads quickly. But be careful because a slight unexpected breeze/sneeze/sigh can blow it into areas you don't want. I use a pointed-tip cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to clean it up.

8 - Highlight grime coat using Mig Ammo Gun Metal. Apply same manner as base grime coat, near the seams and edges where you think there would likely be wear from usage and exposed to light/energy most often.

9 - Metallic highlight using Rub-N-Buff Pewter. Same as highlight grime coat, carefully apply only to the top edges that would be most exposed to light and wear. I used a small eye shadow makeup foam brush to spread it on the edges.

10 - That's it...let it all dry for a few days and then enjoy!

FYI, spray can painting is fine for primer and base coats but the metallics and gloss coat were applied using an airbrush at 20psi to ensure even layers and all the details don't get covered.

I attached a pic of the stuff I used for reference.

That's pretty much it for my technique...hope this helps!

 

[Pauleysolo]

Excellent!

Tony Stark meets 50’s Sci-fi!

 

[genZOD]

This is a fantastic thread! I've really enjoyed seeing all the amazing work!

I've built lots of blasters, but only one "ray gun". It's a resin plan 9 kit (as much as one piece of resin can be a kit) my wife bought me several years ago. I mostly used it to experiment with different distressed metallic effects. I made my own color flopping finish with various pigment powders and layers of clear or tinted coats of lacquer. In the end, I probably should have stoped a day to two before I did... live and learn.

In my head this is how there gun might appear after being rediscovered in some dark attic or basement.

Now I'm inspired to take this...

 

[tmax]

The “Pacemaker”

 

[JFB64]

Magnificent.

 

[cloudborn]

Wow, very cool!

 

[Soulinertia]

Always appreciate a TMAX post

 

[JamesM242]

Outstanding, tmax - that is a piece of art! Thanks for sharing! Any work in progress photos?

 

[Captain Dunsel]

The “Pacemaker”

View attachment 1857850View attachment 1857851View attachment 1857852View attachment 1857853View attachment 1857854View attachment 1857855View attachment 1857856View attachment 1857857View attachment 1857858View attachment 1857859View attachment 1857860View attachment 1857861View attachment 1857862

This is awesome!!

 

[tmax]

Thanks all for your kind comments. As requested, here’s a couple of progress pics…

 

[greenmachines]

Thanks all for your kind comments. As requested, here’s a couple of progress pics…

View attachment 1859143View attachment 1859144View attachment 1859145View attachment 1859146View attachment 1859147

That is some serious eye candy. Thank you very much for the process step photos.

 

[JamesM242]

I agree with greenmachines - thanks for sharing!

 

[tmax]

Updated office pics…