Question about scratchbuilding with styrene...

[FakeBritishAccent]

I've never worked with styrene, but I'm planning to utilize the stuff when I start my new project (a replica gun from an indie comic book). I imagine I would start with a wooden core, but to build it up do I use thin styrene cut to shape and add to the core layer by layer?

Also, I've noticed that when I cut thin plastic with my Dremel, it melts...affecting the integrity of my cuts. Does styrene react in the same way?

Thanks again!

-Jonaas

 

[clonesix]

The best way to cut sheet styrene is the "score and snap" method.

For smaller pieces that you will never get straight enough, buy pre-cut strips from the hobby shop. They have all sizes and thicknesses

 

[silverskyes402]

Just a question, but what hobby shops sell styrene?

 

[TridCloudwalker]

I've never know a hobby shop to NOT have styrene. It's usually kept on a spinning wire rack back with the model railroading supplies. You can also get it on eBay, and even some craft stores (not A.C. Moore, though).

For a list of everything available check out: http://www.evergreenscalemodels.com/

And if your local hobbyshop doesnt have it in stock, they can order it for you.

 

[Fizbin]

I imagine I would start with a wooden core, but to build it up do I use thin styrene cut to shape and add to the core layer by layer?

Basically yes, perhaps this picture will help to illustrate the process more clearly:

Also, I've noticed that when I cut thin plastic with my Dremel, it melts...affecting the integrity of my cuts. Does styrene react in the same way?

Well, styrene will always melt a little with a Dremel, but if you use a Sanding Drum (like the one pictured below) at the lowest speed possible, the melting is kept to a minimum. The trick is score and snap large straight cuts and sand down smaller detail or curved pieces.

Hope this helps.

 

[FakeBritishAccent]

Basically yes, perhaps this picture will help to illustrate the process more clearly:

Well, styrene will always melt a little with a Dremel, but if you use a Sanding Drum (like the one pictured below) at the lowest speed possible, the melting is kept to a minimum. The trick is score and snap large straight cuts and sand down smaller detail or curved pieces.

Hope this helps.

Would I score the sheet with a basic #11 Xacto? Or will any sharp tool do?

Thanks for all the good advice!

 

[FakeBritishAccent]

Also, what brand or type of Model putty should I use to fill in gaps and seams? Keep in mind I eventually plan to mold and cast this sucker.

 

[jonny5]

what izzit called? Sqaudron Green model putty?

 

[silverskyes402]

I've never know a hobby shop to NOT have styrene. It's usually kept on a spinning wire rack back with the model railroading supplies. You can also get it on eBay, and even some craft stores (not A.C. Moore, though).

For a list of everything available check out: http://www.evergreenscalemodels.com/

And if your local hobbyshop doesnt have it in stock, they can order it for you.

Sweet, thanks very much!

 

[Fizbin]

Would I score the sheet with a basic #11 Xacto? Or will any sharp tool do?

Any sharp hobby knife will do, but I usually use a common utility knife (for better grip and pressure) and a metal straight-edge (aka "ruler") for most of my cuts.

Also, what brand or type of Model putty should I use to fill in gaps and seams? Keep in mind I eventually plan to mold and cast this sucker.

Well, if you want to make it easy on yourself, use Apoxie Sculpt. It's water soluble, smooths very well and completely air dries to a rock hard substance in 24 hrs. Easy to sand, too. Here's a link for it:

http://www.avesstudio.com/Products/Apoxie_Sculpt/apoxie_sculpt.html

Good luck!

 

[BlindSquirrel]

Bondo Spot Filler putty appears to be the same as the hobby putty but at a fraction of the cost. You can get it at Wal-mart or auto supply stores.

I second the recommendation of Apoxie sculpt. Great stuff!

I've also had great success using hardware store lacquer thinner as a "glue" for styrene. It literally melts the pieces together. You can apply it with a ruling pen and it'll run down the seams via capillary action with minimal mess.

 

[Fizbin]

I've also had great success using hardware store lacquer thinner as a "glue" for styrene. It literally melts the pieces together. You can apply it with a ruling pen and it'll run down the seams via capillary action with minimal mess.

Dude, awesome tip!!! :thumbsup

I've never tried that before, but the theroy seems very sound, thanks!

 

[Darth Lars]

I second the recommendation of Apoxie sculpt. Great stuff!

Never tried Apoxie. There are other "epoxy putties". Milliput, Tamiya model putty, etc. All of them are much better than auto body filler.

I've also had great success using hardware store lacquer thinner as a "glue" for styrene. It literally melts the pieces together. You can apply it with a ruling pen and it'll run down the seams via capillary action with minimal mess.

Acetone? I have used it with limited success. I have had much better results with "poly cement". For smaller stuff, that don't flex, superglue can be more efficient to use just because of its drying time.

 

[Gordon Gekko]

This is a pretty good book to have around if you want to scratchbuild with styrene.

http://www.amazon.com/Evergreen-Sca...e=UTF8&s=toys-and-games&qid=1201884421&sr=8-3

Many hobby shops carry it too.

 

[FakeBritishAccent]

Bondo Spot Filler putty appears to be the same as the hobby putty but at a fraction of the cost. You can get it at Wal-mart or auto supply stores.

I second the recommendation of Apoxie sculpt. Great stuff!

I've also had great success using hardware store lacquer thinner as a "glue" for styrene. It literally melts the pieces together. You can apply it with a ruling pen and it'll run down the seams via capillary action with minimal mess.

Thanks for the tip, Blind Squirrel! And just so you know, I've been reading through your blogspot for tips and tricks for the last six months or so. I know your advice will yield great results.