PVA and Professionalism

Plokman

Active Member
Hey all,
I got a tiny question for you this time perhaps not as kooky as my one on real rust in a Faux Ivory wash, check that out if you can I'd appreciate it very much. Anyway I have a question for all of you about PVA glue, and no it's not one of application like with my Epoxy troubleshoots and all but it is one I am not sure on for professionals. I recently created some powder pigments (Not sure if they will be good in Resin but experiments must be made for one who must be frugal, no not cheap frugal) made from mixing Cornstarch, PVA Elmer's Glue all, and food coloring, well at least the RGB ones were food coloring I also made a mix from a rediscovered powder of Fruity Pebbles (again experiments can lead to cool unique stuff.) now this blended the colors together and made a kinda gross looking mess that looked like old teeth and I've put it to good use as a mix I call Tooth Rot making quintaped teeth for wand cores.

The other mix was to see if I could do what Peter Brown could not, make cheetos pigment. I dunked a few cheetos in water to make the "Cheese" into a water mix, this meant I needed a lot of PVA and Cornstarch to counter it and the stuff diluted to a odd light orange that was so full of water I had to bake it for a bit to get it to a decent hardness. The foil it was in stuck to it in the back and the color after drying was slightly oh what's the word.. it wasn't translucent as it isn't see through but light passes through and it kinda makes look like cloudy crystal and I realized it looked a lot like a orange Quartz in a way.

Due to the stuff being baked it had a lot of air bubbles in it, but it was as hard as a rock and even my father who is quite strong could not crack it with a hammer. Maybe if it were a anvil but we lack any kind of those, I was amazed and I know some crafters will sell mod Podge covered items as it is a sealant as well as a PVA glue derivative so my quandary is if I took that "Quartz" which I finally ground down and cast it in a solid PVA and polished it up like any other thing would I be professional in selling it, I want to make a wand Handle out of the stuff and I am 100% ok with selling the resing made and carved ones but to a community of pros what is your opinion?

Would it be cheapened, would sealing it with a good top coat make it better, maybe a resin clear coat? I honestly want to know what you guys feel on this as to me I still connect PVA with school crafts to a degree and that is mainly because I only started using Glue All and not the bottles labeled School Glue. So please some advice would be welcome both here and on my topic about a crazy idea from a inventive Maker.

I really could use all the help I can get and I don't know, I know you guys are cool but I think either I come off like a little kid or I sound stupid and just make everyone roll their eyes. Anyway hope all is well, happy making.
 
The trouble with pva is it absorbs moisture in the air... And over time changes its characteristics. That lump your dad couldnt break could be a slodgy mess in a year you two... I wouldn't use it in anything that Important.


Using it as a wood glue though... That's fine.
 
It may absorb moisture from the air, and there are micro-organisms that can degrade it, but if it is coated with a non-reactive substance, that should prevent both. I've also heard that CA glue is not a long term solution for gluing models, or props, but chances are, the bonds will outlive us.

TazMan2000
 
The trouble with pva is it absorbs moisture in the air... And over time changes its characteristics. That lump your dad couldnt break could be a slodgy mess in a year you two... I wouldn't use it in anything that Important.


Using it as a wood glue though... That's fine.

It may absorb moisture from the air, and there are micro-organisms that can degrade it, but if it is coated with a non-reactive substance, that should prevent both. I've also heard that CA glue is not a long term solution for gluing models, or props, but chances are, the bonds will outlive us.

TazMan2000

Would it help if I gave the piece like ten clear coats of a enamel paint, like brushed on Clear Fingernail Polish? I mean that will keep water out and should allow the PVA to keep the unique look it has. That's the biggest reason I ask as I don't know if my Quartz Dust would look the same mixed into resin since that tends to make what is mixed look damp permanently at least in the case of my "Tooth Rot" Pigment. I'm not surprised since it is a liquid at start Hmm is there any way around that situation, keeping powders from looking damp? I am not building a model railway (Yet) here I don't always want wet stone and sand.
 
You can try Testors Dullcote. But try it on a test piece first. My history with it is excellent and it has a low reactivity to most things, however I haven't tested it with PVA glue in large areas. Spraying 10 coats of it will be excessive, and I've had issues with other matte coats getting shiny after about 3-4 coats.

TazMan2000
 
You can try Testors Dullcote. But try it on a test piece first. My history with it is excellent and it has a low reactivity to most things, however I haven't tested it with PVA glue in large areas. Spraying 10 coats of it will be excessive, and I've had issues with other matte coats getting shiny after about 3-4 coats.

TazMan2000

Testor's Dullcote is great stuff, I used to the stuff extensively in the past as a protective coating for model kits and miniatures that I've painted. It absolutely does not react with either acrylic or enamel paints.
 
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