Preferred spot putty?

[sesl]

So I've been trying to find a good spot putty. I've been using squadron putty but noticed that when I go to paint, the toluene in most of my rattle cans cause the hardened putty to get soft, peel, and well... basically turn back into putty. It's mostly with primers that have toluene listed as their number 1 ingredient. And I wouldn't want to mix up bondo for every little thing. Also I just *discovered* filler primer which should help some lol

So what's been working for you?

 

[BarryZ28]

Two part polyester spot putty. I use a big can of autobody quality 2 part and it sands/feathers out beautifully and primer sticks like it’s suppose to. Never had a problem with paint attacking it of changing its chemical make up. Just don’t like mixing it and the strong smell of the chemicals and short working time before it starts to harden. That can also be a good thing as you can start sanding right away. If you don’t add enough hardener it will stay soft and never setup properly. Takes practice but I will never use any hobby putty again.

 

[swgeek]

I like Nitro-stan.

 

[sesl]

Two part polyester spot putty. I use a big can of autobody quality 2 part and it sands/feathers out beautifully and primer sticks like it’s suppose to. Never had a problem with paint attacking it of changing its chemical make up. Just don’t like mixing it and the strong smell of the chemicals and short working time before it starts to harden. That can also be a good thing as you can start sanding right away. If you don’t add enough hardener it will stay soft and never setup properly. Takes practice but I will never use any hobby putty again.

You mean like Bondo right? Yeah I use it too but mostly in larger quantities and larger "spots" but I mean for little tiny pinholes that come up mixing up bondo would get old fast.

I like Nitro-stan.

Never heard of it before. Is it something I could get locally like at an Autozone?

Also seen this around along with something called liquid plastic and liquid metal. Anyone try any of these?

 

[Nintendophile]

The "Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty" is designed for filling pin-holes in Bondo and body filler and stuff like that, so I think it'd be exactly what you're looking for. And it should be able to take any kind of paint you can throw at it.

 

[b26354]

Any auto paint store should sell nitrocellulose based spot putty which is usually red in colour. Nitro-stan and the 3M one you linked to seem like variants of the same thing.

If you lay this stuff on too thick the surface will form a skin and slow down the setting of the underlying putty so it's not recommended for filling big holes.

 

[Zombie_61]

The "Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty" is designed for filling pin-holes in Bondo and body filler and stuff like that, so I think it'd be exactly what you're looking for. And it should be able to take any kind of paint you can throw at it.

That's what I use for small jobs like minor seam filling. Available at almost any auto parts store and not too expensive. And, yes, it takes primer and paint very well. It also sands nicely, making it easy to blend in with the surrounding material.

It does have some cons though. It has a relatively short working time, a minor amount of shrinkage (not noticeable in small quantities), it's not particularly durable if you plan to use it to add thin surface detail (i.e., it breaks easily), and if used in large quantities it can melt thin styrene as it cures.

For large gaps and/or adding sculpted surface detail I prefer Aves Apoxie Sculpt, a two-part epoxy-like putty. It's more difficult to obtain and it takes a little getting used to, but it sculpts easily, can be thinned or smoothed with water, and has a 2-3 hour working time (allegedly--I find it starts curing within 45-60 minutes).

Aves Apoxie Sculpt also has some cons. It takes 24 hours to cure completely (i.e., before you can drill, grind, carve, etc.) and, in my experience, is usually harder than most styrenes and resins when fully cured, which can sometimes make sanding/blending difficult.

That said, I find these two products to be easier to work with and better than most other spot and two-part putties.

 

[robn1]

You mean like Bondo right? Yeah I use it too but mostly in larger quantities and larger "spots" but I mean for little tiny pinholes that come up mixing up bondo would get old fast...

When I use Bondo for small pinholes, I apply the filler and some catalyst on a pallet. I mix a pea sized bit of filler with a tiny spec of catalyst, and work with it until it's too hard, then mix some more. You can go pretty fast this way once you get the hang of it, and it really helps to avoid waste.

 

[Sluis Van Shipyards]

When I use Bondo for small pinholes, I apply the filler and some catalyst on a pallet. I mix a pea sized bit of filler with a tiny spec of catalyst, and work with it until it's too hard, then mix some more. You can go pretty fast this way once you get the hang of it, and it really helps to avoid waste.

That's the best stuff I've found for small areas.

Aves Apoxie Sculpt also has some cons. It takes 24 hours to cure completely (i.e., before you can drill, grind, carve, etc.) and, in my experience, is usually harder than most styrenes and resins when fully cured, which can sometimes make sanding/blending difficult.

I don't have a huge amount of experience with Aves, but I've found it's the best thing to use for large areas. I've had a lot of luck restoring curves or building curves.

 

[Maelstrom]

The "Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty" is designed for filling pin-holes in Bondo and body filler and stuff like that, so I think it'd be exactly what you're looking for. And it should be able to take any kind of paint you can throw at it.

Ditto. Love the stuff!

 

[Zombie_61]

I don't have a huge amount of experience with Aves, but I've found it's the best thing to use for large areas. I've had a lot of luck restoring curves or building curves.

One of the things I like about Aves Apoxie Putty it that you can work it and shape it very much like clay--something I haven't found in most putties. The trick is, once you've mixed the two parts thoroughly you have to let it sit for 15-20 minutes before you use it; otherwise it's quite tacky and tends to stick to your sculpting tools, fingers, etc..

 

[sesl]

Thanks everyone I'll probably end up mostly using the glazing spot putty but will have a go at that Aves Apoxie Putty too since

you can work it and shape it very much like clay

I think I know a place in my area that I could probably find it.


Thanks again!

 

[Sluis Van Shipyards]

One of the things I like about Aves Apoxie Putty it that you can work it and shape it very much like clay--something I haven't found in most putties. The trick is, once you've mixed the two parts thoroughly you have to let it sit for 15-20 minutes before you use it; otherwise it's quite tacky and tends to stick to your sculpting tools, fingers, etc..

Really? I always used it right away because I was afraid it would set up too quick. I guess I'll have to try that next time.

 

[epilepticsquirl]

if used in large quantities it can melt thin styrene as it cures.

I was wondering what the hell was happening to a model I've been working on. Thanks for the info! :thumbsup

 

[Zombie_61]

Really? I always used it right away because I was afraid it would set up too quick. I guess I'll have to try that next time.

Their website says it has a working time of 2-3 hours. Speaking from personal experience, it seems to start getting harder to work with after about 45-60 minutes. So, unless you work really slow, you should have enough time.

I was wondering what the hell was happening to a model I've been working on. Thanks for the info! :thumbsup

I learned about this from a modeler who tried to use it to fill in the feet (which are hollow) on Revell's Rat Fink figure kit; it didn't melt them completely, but it did give the tops of the feet some "unique textures".

 

[CaptCBoard]

Nitro Stan is about the best thing for filling small seams, surface scratches and pits. It comes in red and gray. 3M also makes a similar putty-- both are lacquer based.

From my experience, using anything made by Bondo is a waste of time when you consider there are so many better fillers out there. Evercoat and Dyna-tron are the two I use. They are more expensive than Bondo products, but the extra cost is very much worth it. The first time you sand either of these, you will never go back to Bondo! The only real problem is you have to go to an auto paint store to find them. The chain stores like Kragen and Pep Boys only stock Bondo products, mainly because they are cheap.

Scott

 

[sesl]

Nitro Stan is about the best thing for filling small seams, surface scratches and pits. It comes in red and gray. 3M also makes a similar putty-- both are lacquer based.

From my experience, using anything made by Bondo is a waste of time when you consider there are so many better fillers out there. Evercoat and Dyna-tron are the two I use. They are more expensive than Bondo products, but the extra cost is very much worth it. The first time you sand either of these, you will never go back to Bondo! The only real problem is you have to go to an auto paint store to find them. The chain stores like Kragen and Pep Boys only stock Bondo products, mainly because they are cheap.

Scott

Yeah Bondo sure can be a pain but then again I kinda just dove into it not too long ago and I'm learning a few tricks as I go along.. I've never heard of Evercoat or Dynatron but I have heard good things about something called Gold Body Filler. I'll probably check it out once I finish my huge gallon can of Bondo.

 

[James Tiberius]

Green Squadron with acetone, or some aves

 

[feek61]

I am also on the Bondo Glazing Putty train!

 

[zookone]

Milliput is awesome for small parts. It is a two part epoxy putting that hardens in about 4 hours. It has a great texture, work life and can be smoothed a shaped using tools wetted with water. I always had shrinkage problems with green squadron, which I don't using miliput.

Milliput