Predator Spears Working New Stuff In Action Post #53

Eaglewood

Sr Member
DISCLAIMER: PLEASE READ CAREFULLY!!!!! DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS IF YOU DONT KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. THE SPRINGS AND TENSION CREATED CAN BE DANGEROUS AND WILL CAUSE BODILY HARM. NEVER POINT THIS ASSEMBLY DIRECTLY AT ANYONE AS IT CAN CAUSE BODILY HARM. I WILL NOT BE HELD LIABLE FOR ANYONE WHO FOLLOWS THIS HUNTORIAL AND HURTS THEMSELVES OR ANYONE ELSE. THIS IS FOR INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY!!!!

Now thats out of the way lets go on--


OK-- here is the way I got the Shurline one to work. PIcs are not in order-- havent got that figured out yet!!!!

First you have to roll back the rubber sleeve to remove the cap


Then you take the cap off


Then you insert the spring-- its about a 3/4 diameter by 4" long one-- may want to go a little longer but not much because if you increast the length of the spring you increase the amount that the end sticks out of the shaft

Make sure you glue the spring into the cap


Then you have to secure the cap so it doesnt come shooting off-- I drilled it and inserted a plastic rod and then a screw.


Then you have to drill a new catch hole in the top end of the pole. Due to the space that is now taken up by the spring, the catch wont hit the top hole. You just pull it down tight as far as you can, mark the end of the catch assembly, measure down about 1/4-3/8 of an inch and drill a new hole

That is pretty much it-- you are good to go. What I saw is that You need to have a pretty strong spring or added weight on the bottom of the handle fo rit to extend and catch completely. I actually give it a bit of a pull downward when I hit the release and it seems to work fine and actually adds to the effect.

I removed the rubber handle and put a piece of 1.1/4 PVC on. I cut it at an angle on the top end to match the angle of the handle. You have to cut the little loop off of the end of the butt cap and then insert a PVC cap. I glued this on tight .
I will then sculpt on the PVC, do some engraving and be good togo.
You CANNOT put any paint or anything on the aluminum tubes to dress them up--they wont slide correctly.
Here is a video of what the spear in action
Spear Huntorial--Kinda

Happy Hunting and good luck--dress them up

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Dude. Nice work. I watched the video very informative. You definitly put alot of work into it.

I cant wait to see it finished up. I have a feeling alot of people will follow suit with this and make their own spears.
 
I would TOTALLY put a disclaimer on this, ya know, liability issues. I dunno why, but this one scares the hell out of me. Maybe it's the concept of a spring-loaded flying spear not catching correctly and flying into a kid's face...
 
I would TOTALLY put a disclaimer on this, ya know, liability issues. I dunno why, but this one scares the hell out of me. Maybe it's the concept of a spring-loaded flying spear not catching correctly and flying into a kid's face...

But its all for a good cause :)


Those spears turned out very well, I was waiting for someone to actual turn one of those. Well done, I will loooove when the glyphs and such are on the spears

"I got faces, I got faces, I got hands, I got feets, I got....Boobs"
 
I like the spring extendable idea, good huntorial.
But I've been racking my brain all night trying to come up with a way to make it both retract and extend---I searched the internet for tons of stuff. Motorized wormgears and motorized car antennas.

It think I amy have found it. Although it wouldn't be movie accurate since the motor and battery would have to be mounted outside, but it would work. See the attached pictures. The idea is the moter spins a gear and makes the rails slide in and out the smalles diameter tubing. That way it all fits when retracted. If I ever decide to do this, it will be a while. I will have to find the right length of plastic rails with teeth and a gear. But I still think it would work. One switch makes it retract and the other extends it. It's two momentary switches, so it will stop retracting or extending when you let go. This is what happens when you are somewhat of a engineer (currently obtaining a bachelors degeree). The next part would be to try and fit it all (battery and motor) in the main housing. See picture attached, Enjoy!!

Possible_Working_Predator_Spear.JPG
 
I like the spring extendable idea, good huntorial.
But I've been racking my brain all night trying to come up with a way to make it both retract and extend---I searched the internet for tons of stuff. Motorized wormgears and motorized car antennas.

It think I amy have found it. Although it wouldn't be movie accurate since the motor and battery would have to be mounted outside, but it would work. See the attached pictures. The idea is the moter spins a gear and makes the rails slide in and out the smalles diameter tubing. That way it all fits when retracted. If I ever decide to do this, it will be a while. I will have to find the right length of plastic rails with teeth and a gear. But I still think it would work. One switch makes it retract and the other extends it. It's two momentary switches, so it will stop retracting or extending when you let go. This is what happens when you are somewhat of a engineer (currently obtaining a bachelors degeree). The next part would be to try and fit it all (battery and motor) in the main housing. See picture attached, Enjoy!!

This is a very nice design. Where do you find the linear rail in that length?
 
I like the spring extendable idea, good huntorial.
But I've been racking my brain all night trying to come up with a way to make it both retract and extend---I searched the internet for tons of stuff. Motorized wormgears and motorized car antennas.

It think I amy have found it. Although it wouldn't be movie accurate since the motor and battery would have to be mounted outside, but it would work. See the attached pictures. The idea is the moter spins a gear and makes the rails slide in and out the smalles diameter tubing. That way it all fits when retracted. If I ever decide to do this, it will be a while. I will have to find the right length of plastic rails with teeth and a gear. But I still think it would work. One switch makes it retract and the other extends it. It's two momentary switches, so it will stop retracting or extending when you let go. This is what happens when you are somewhat of a engineer (currently obtaining a bachelors degeree). The next part would be to try and fit it all (battery and motor) in the main housing. See picture attached, Enjoy!!

Hey Dude you really got me thinking on this. Eaglewood and I have been working on this for a while now. Our ideas are similiar but different. We are using springs with a motor and pully system to retract and extend the spear. I have a working piece but I feel it is a little dangerous. If the locking mechanism fails or the cable fails the spear will extend. I would hate to have that happen.

I am considering shelfing this concept in favor of your rack gear concept. I currently am using a battery powered screw driver head with a right angle drill head hooked to a battery. I think I can attach the spur gear where I now have the pully. I believe your system would need a couple of things added. I think it will need limit swtches at each end on the movement to stop the motor at least with the system Im using I think it would. The screw driver is geared down so much to give it torque that at the end of each movment there is always a coasting effect. I would try it with out the limit switches first just to see what would happen. I would hate to tear things up. Also, insead of 2 switches iI would use one 2 pole rocker switch. I believe there would have to be a bushing of some sort on the back side if each rack where it meets the gear to keep it in place. Let me know what you think about all of this.
 
Hey Dude you really got me thinking on this. Eaglewood and I have been working on this for a while now. Our ideas are similiar but different. We are using springs with a motor and pully system to retract and extend the spear. I have a working piece but I feel it is a little dangerous. If the locking mechanism fails or the cable fails the spear will extend. I would hate to have that happen.

I am considering shelfing this concept in favor of your rack gear concept. I currently am using a battery powered screw driver head with a right angle drill head hooked to a battery. I think I can attach the spur gear where I now have the pully. I believe your system would need a couple of things added. I think it will need limit swtches at each end on the movement to stop the motor at least with the system Im using I think it would. The screw driver is geared down so much to give it torque that at the end of each movment there is always a coasting effect. I would try it with out the limit switches first just to see what would happen. I would hate to tear things up. Also, insead of 2 switches iI would use one 2 pole rocker switch. I believe there would have to be a bushing of some sort on the back side if each rack where it meets the gear to keep it in place. Let me know what you think about all of this.

Just throwing this out there, but what if, instead of a rack gear system, you used a spool with a winding cable or even high-strength fishing line, that had a set length? That way, the spears can only go as far as the cable/line is long?
 
Great feedback guys, appreciate the input. I had a duh moment when "alphatech686" stated to use a rocker switch--LOL. It was 3am when I finshed this, so I was tired. To limit the extension and retraction, small actuator switches can be used. They usually come with a roller on a flat metal spring that pushes in the switch. If you wire it in you need it normally open, when not engaged. My idea is that when the roller reaches the end of the rail, it opens the circuit stopping on the extension movement. Also the gearing concept would have both ends extending/retracting at the same time and speed.

The hardest thing to find would be the railing with teeth. It would most likely be easier to find it in metal, but I would hate for the entire spear to be too heavy. Also the rail guides just have holes in them to keep the aligment with the gear. The railing passes through and stays engaged to the gear. Anyways, here is verison2 of my design. Feel free to comment.

Possible_Working_Predator_Spear_v2.JPG
 
Even though I came up with the gear design. A motorized car antenna would work too. One for each end. You'd have to attach something to the end of the antenna to the end of the last pole. The biggest issue would be to power to the motor. But you could most likley find a 12 volt rechargeable battery pack at RadioShack, after that the only issue would be how many times can it retract/extend on one charge. I found Motorized car antennas as cheap as $20 a piece.

Even in my rail design I was planning on using a rechargable battery pack, with power enough to drive whatever motor I would use.
 
I was looking at this type of rail system as well originally but im not an engineer so I went a bit more simplified. I like it and I have to agree with Alpha that this may be the way to go.
Awesome--great work.
Keep us posted.
 
I love it when great minds get together and tackle an issue and eventuallysolve it for the benefit of the whole board.
keep it up guys I'm sure you guys will come up with the best solution for this.
And thank you in advance :p
 
Great feedback guys, appreciate the input. I had a duh moment when "alphatech686" stated to use a rocker switch--LOL. It was 3am when I finshed this, so I was tired. To limit the extension and retraction, small actuator switches can be used. They usually come with a roller on a flat metal spring that pushes in the switch. If you wire it in you need it normally open, when not engaged. My idea is that when the roller reaches the end of the rail, it opens the circuit stopping on the extension movement. Also the gearing concept would have both ends extending/retracting at the same time and speed.

The hardest thing to find would be the railing with teeth. It would most likely be easier to find it in metal, but I would hate for the entire spear to be too heavy. Also the rail guides just have holes in them to keep the aligment with the gear. The railing passes through and stays engaged to the gear. Anyways, here is verison2 of my design. Feel free to comment.
The actuator switches you are talking about are called limit switches which is what I was talking about above. They have to be played with a little as if you have them at the very end of the movement you get a crunch effect as electric motors want to keep turn for a few seconds after the power is cut. As for the battery issue, there is a store here called Batteries Plus that will build any battery you need. They are finishing up one for me right now that was going to be for my spring/cable spear. I believe it will now be for my Predetoray31/Alphatech686/Eaglwood Rack and Pinion spear. I just got off the phone with my dad up in Iowa is is a Mechanical Engineer who has all the catalogs to order just the right stuff. I will keep you all updated. He told me not to sweat shlefing my origianal idea qas this apparently happens a lot when designing things. It was a good exersize though. I'll post a couple pictures in a minute.
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here is one i did a few years back!
all it is just 2 $4 umbrellas
i cut off the hook on the handle, put the ends over fire and melted them together...
covered with pipe insulation and just made sure that both buttons that extend it are placed together!!!
you have to cut off all the cloth on the umbrella and then cover it with duct tape and then plastidip, or whatever you want to cover it with!



here is a short video of it!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aw3tZbFM_k8
 
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