Polar Lights 1:350 Enterprise refit - my build up

[ob1al]

Re: Polar Lights 1:350 Enterprise refit - build up, questions and reference images

Thanks opal. It was really the fact that I couldn't get them in sequence, along with the possibility of a reduced lifespan on the flashing LED's. As you mentioned, I didn't want the lights to fail a year or two down the line, once this is sealed and painted I want it to stay that way.

I'm still working on designing and installing the lights, building them up as I go along:

Since this pic was taken I've installed the four yellow LED's around the deflector dish too.

I'm getting too much light bleed in certain areas, I will try to fix that later.

I'm working on the nacelles and the shuttle bay at the moment. I'm scratching my head on the best way to light the nacelles, still experimenting and trying to figure this problem out.

Several times over the course of this build to date, I've wished I'd just ordered a trek modeller lighting kit. It would have been much quicker, I think. The only 2 positives from my method are the ability to customise the lights to suit and the satisfaction of having done it myself. The downside is a few more grey hairs...

 

[clancampbell]

Good work, i like how your spots look nice and bright!

This was my last build using the Raytheon method....

Rich

 

[LMFAOSchwarz]

Coming along just great! I've got to commend you: I'm not sure I'd have the nerve to attempt this!
I really like your 'fake' projected light on the saucer section. The diffused light as it travels away from the light source really helps sell it!
One thing I really enjoy is your arboretum! It has a real 60's-ish "Lost in Space" feeling to it, and while that's the wrong show, the era certainly comes across well! It's a nice, subtle reminder of the original series in a model of the movie-era ship!
Also, your approach to customizing the lighting will pay off in extra experience!

 

[opal1970]

Re: Polar Lights 1:350 Enterprise refit - build up, questions and reference images

It was really the fact that I couldn't get them in sequence...

yes, I did not think about that but I also had that problem using two separate microcontrollers and keeping them in sequence, I ended up ordering a larger microcontroller that had enough pins to do all the lighting that needed to be in time with each other.

I put my Revell Galactica on ice, and have been busying myself with the Workbees, Travelpods & Co for my 350 Enterprise (until the Timeslip Galactica kit arrives). Lighting them with SMDs should not be the problem, but getting everything in place "inside" is proving to be a really fun task. I had to order some SMD resistors, which should arrive next week (Conrad), as the normal ones were too big. When I have one lite up I will give you a sneak preview.

 

[ob1al]

This is the circuit I intend to make tomorrow:

Please let me know if anyone spots any problems with this circuit - I'd rather know now before I build it.

Bear in mind this will be running from a 9v wall supply.

 

[ob1al]

Thinking about the nacelle lighting. Here are a couple of screen grabs from TMP I found online:

And here's the studio model pic again, unlit:

After some consideration, I think I should add a translucent purple to the inside of the clear plastic nacelle light parts so it appears purple when unlit, like the studio model, add black lines in the grooves with paint, then add blue, rather than purple, lighting behind via an EL strip.

What do you guys think?

Rich, great build there. I see you went for the purple/UV nacelle lighting. I have have a question, how did you light block the ends of the nacelle clear parts to restrict the lighting from going all the way to the edge? In the screenshots the nacelle light rounds off well before reaching the edge, like your model. Any tips on how to achieve that? Did you light block the inside of the clear part with paint?

 

[clancampbell]

Thanks for the compliment!

Hmmm... if i remember correctly, i painted the outside of the clear part, but light blocked the inside with black electrical tape, i think! I used transparent purple lighting gell for the uv/purple effect......got loads left if you want some....FOC of course! My only problem with that, was i was using the Trekmodeler lighting kit, and the 2 big led's he supplies for either end of the warp grilles just wasn't enough to get the even bright light i wanted......

Rich

 

[ob1al]

That's very kind of you cheers mate. Yes I would love some of the lighting gel. PM sent.

I've been having a look at 9" blue cold cathode tubes. Any thoughts about using those instead of LED's?

 

[clancampbell]

I don't have any experience with CCFL's.....all i know is they give a beautiful even light....however, if you go the led route, this was the result i got on my2nd last Enterprise using spaced apart led's in a lightbox with lot's of diffusion......(granted i went for blue that time) but at least it worked on that attempt! LOL!

Rich

 

[ob1al]

Looks beautiful Rich.

I've bought 2 9" cold cathodes from halfords and tested them. They are perfect with little or no diffusion, happy with that. Ill post some pics later, at a bbq right now! The purple gel and painting black lines should do it, I think.

 

[clancampbell]

I'm totally in awe of your electronics expertise!

I'm probably preaching to the choir here, but, remember it's the thin inner lines that are lighted......a lot of folks light the raised flat surfaces......i used some .75mm masking tape from ebaywhich fills the recesses very nicely! Then it's spray away!

Also, sounds crass, but after painting the warp grilles, i used (on my last build) a Black Permanent marker to go over the flat surfaces.....this gives a mettalic black/purple look to the grilles.....

Rich

 

[ob1al]

No expertise here Rich! Like Indy, I'm just making it up as I go along.

Here's a light test of the 2 cathode's:

A quick video:

Narcelles cold cathode light test - YouTube

For some reason the lowermost cathode wasn't lighting properly in the test. I think they need a couple of minutes to warm up sometimes, it's fully lit and working fine now.

In person it's really bright and with the purple diffusion in front of it, I think it should work out well?

 

[Garbaron]

Hey guys, opal1970 redirected me here form StarshipModeler.



Very good work on your Refit so far. Keep it up and the more time you put in to her, the better she'll look at the end.

Since I am at the process of building a 1/350 Refit too, and already having got past the warp nacelles I'd like to chime in on the subject.


*hijacking your thread for a moment*


The picture of the studio model you posted does indeed show the real color of the inboard warp nacelle grills.

If you know what to look for, that violet / purplish color, you can see it on all color pictures of the Refit. It is this color that made a lot of people think the inner grills where kind of a dark blue, or anthracite, since depending on the light conditions it will look like either.


Anyhow, I found me some purple form Marabu (violet 051) that is pretty much the color of the inner grills you can see on that picture of the studio model. I did not color the warp grill clear piece at all. I masked the recessed trenches, applied two layers of black as a light coat and then two with the purple. A LOT of fine trimming on the lit trenches needed to be done after the tape was removed since the color edge got a jagged after the tape was gone.


The violet under a flash

under daylight

The warp glow is achieved with four 5mm cold white LEDs which are mounted on to a styrene strip at an even distance to each other. The LED tips are flattened to reduce the hot spot the lens would create.

The LED strip is mounted face down at the outboard wapr nacelle half a distance of 6mm, so the LED illuminate the inside wall. To further reduce the hot spots at the LED I painted blue blobs at the LED locations.

The blue glow is achieved by a semi transparent blue foil, you want purple warp grills, substitute with a purple foil (and purple blops at the LED locations).

(The white paper "diffusion layer" was not used on the final setup)


Finished nacelles

Resulting warp glow

If you are interested in my WIP Refit build up, you can find it here:
Starship Modeler Discussion Forums


*returning thread to you*


Hope this helps a little on how to proceed on the nacelles.
Building the Refit lit is a real challenge and I found that looking at how others overcome certain problem, like how to get the onscreen deflector dish effect, helps you find your own solutions.

 

[ob1al]

Thanks for that. I'll follow your technique of painting the grills leaving the trenches clear, great idea.

I'm going to stick with the cold cathodes for lighting as I'm happy with the even glow they create.

Nice work on your big E!

 

[ob1al]

More lighting tests. I still have a bunch of white led's to add to the hull and in the struts, then the strobe lights and flashing navigation lights, then the lighting aspect will be finished. It'll be a relief, I've had enough of the electronics at this point. I want to make a start with cementing all the substructures together, light blocking and painting:

I feel like I've learned a lot on this build so far. If I built another one of these kits, I would correct a lot of the early mistakes I made (light blocking the saucer walls BEFORE adding the windows for instance) and proceed much more smoothly and assuredly. But I guess thats the way with everything.

Anyway, onwards and upwards hopefully!

 

[postmanpat]

Wow!!! Great build. It's amazing how much lighting brings it all to life.

 

[Garbaron]

Looking really goot, although I'd tone down the warp engines.
Those are supposed to glow, not act as a night lamp

 

[ob1al]

Thanks. The grills aren't painted yet plus the purple gel is going in front of the cathodes, that'll tone it down loads.

 

[clancampbell]

Thanks. The grills aren't painted yet plus the purple gel is going in front of the cathodes, that'll tone it down loads.

You should be getting the purple gel today sometime....

Rich

 

[ob1al]

You are a star cheers mate