Re: John Long Phaser 1 Kit Buildup plus MM P2 Restoration
Ahhh... couldn't make up my mind between chores and a nice nap, so I did the chores in my sleep.
I was feeling very refreshed until just now when I wrote the word "chores." So I'll try to get this post out before I start nodding again.
[Also, it seems RPF went down for a while tonight -- I thought my post was lost, but the auto-save recovery button saved my bacon.]
Once again, Captain Obvious here proceeded as though "lazy" were the same thing as "efficient" and took three tries before figuring out the right way...
That's Mister Captain Obvious to you, a$$høle!
I cut myself a 1/2" x 1/2" square of 0.040" brass with a 1/8" hole punched in it. First I cut out the strip on the metal shear, then I marked and punched the hole, and soldered on a steel 4-40 nut I had handy. The screw head has to fit the holes in the shaft of the nozzle, and a 6-32 is a bit too big, and seems like overkill anyway. Plus I had a pair of 4-40 brass oval head screws on hand that seemed like they'd work well.
I had to cut the screw down a little, of course...
So how's this for too clever by half: I figured I'd set down a ball of JB epoxy steel putty, push in my little screw mount, and be done with it. Uh, no. I had huge problems lining it up, and had to Dremel it back out and restart.
Then I had this "clever" idea:
Surely the joystick method would give me the control I needed to line it up properly!
I purposely died to avoid doing that joke ever again,
so finish your post and STFU.
And, no.
So with my back against the wall, I remembered the P1 kit instructions. I co-wrote them, which means I never read them, cuz I'm too smart for that, which means I have very fuzzy memories of what's actually in them, and that has consequences...
Wow, she really gets around...
Anyway, I remembered the instructions for seating the nut into the back of the phaser, and finally did it the right way:
I screwed the mount as tightly as possible to the nozzle stem, dropped in my ball of epoxy putty, and then held the nozzle tightly in place till the putty set up. Once that was done, I removed the nozzle and potted in the screw mount with JB Kwik, and that was that. I took one more picture tonight of the screw mount for clarity. Looks horrible, but that sucker's in there and doing its job.
Finally, I sanded and shaped the rear fins last night, and I'm very pleased with the way they came out:
I also did just a bit of additional sanding on the curves of the clip with a 180 grit sanding block. The right side is right where I want it, the left side needs a few more strokes (don't we all?).
And now, the moment I've all been waiting for: Phaser porn!
In the first picture, you can see the Wand front window is narrower than the one from the kit, and I think that's one of their changes. But the screen cap shows my clip is too short in the front (but the Wand has that right), which is my bad, but I'm not fixing it. That would involve lowering the bottom of the window and making the top of the window thicker to match, and at this point that's not something I want to do on this phaser. But it's definitely noted for when I make my master tooling for my scratch-builds.
Final thoughts for tonight:
So, jigs. Not doing the fins and clip quite this way again. I'm going to create a jig for the fins and for bending the front clip in Inventor, and 3D-print myself a nice, precise set of jigs for those parts. The form I printed for bending the brass for the handle works incredibly well, so I'm going to carry that forward to every other sheet-metal-forming part of the phaser. I'm very much inclined to make them available as free downloads. We'll see.
Next Time on Phasers and Fµçkups: The Early Years --
I think next I'll create the brass slide for the nozzle, and I'll be ordering the brass for that on Friday, and drill out the acrylic emitter. I'll also finish the ribs for the back of the pistol, and go ahead and install the 10-turn knob as well.
That will leave the side dial as the final exterior feature, and I'll leave you with a teaser: A clue gleaned from another board about how that may have been built on the originals (and therefore how I'll be doing it)...