Pee-Wee's Big Adventure Bike

Having already gone down this road, I will caution that 3D scans are not readily useable without a lot of post-processing. The model is basically a point cloud with a wrapper that has been placed around it. I modeled the siren housing due to resolution issues with 3D scanning. They often do not provide crisp prints.

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Oh I know, this is exactly the kind of work I do as a day job. I have had commissions for parts modeling using 50k+ scanners, and even those require cleaning and reworking for a printable print in the work pipeline. On projects that are using hobby- or personal-grade scanners (<6k), those scans are really just guidelines, and I am scratch-modeling a completely new mesh with that data just as a reference. With the 100+ scans I've worked with over the last few years, only one was useable as-is, and even that particular organic scan still had to be stitched up in a few places.

I love the scan technology and it is absolutely an asset to some projects, but we are a long ways off from an affordable scanner and process software that is a one-stop shop with little or no clean up. I am working with a member to put together a 'fresh' siren using scans, but (as you said) there is still a lot of legwork to take that reference material and turn out an accurate set of parts. I'm expecting a good 10-12 hours of work even with good scans, and I'll still need a lot of reference measures taken to confirm stuff as 'simple' as making sure repro decals will fit as they should and the additional rear details are correct to the original siren.
 
I would love to eventually be able to injection mold the housing and backplate. Started refining my files at one point to include necessary draft. Just not enough hours in the day though.
 
I would love to eventually be able to injection mold the housing and backplate. Started refining my files at one point to include necessary draft. Just not enough hours in the day though.
I've seen home injection molding that looks promising. This sounds probably very stupid lol, but my largest roadblock to a lot of projects is that initial cost :lol: At this point it's still cheaper to go out and buy a NICE resin printer and print a part than it is to just get the injection molding tooling made. Same goes for high end cnc machining, I am paying pretty lofty prices to outsource work on industrial machines, but I also can't afford a300k machine :lol::lol::lol: I've got this thin metal-stamped piece for a prop project that originally cost maybe 1/2 cent each to make at the factory, but just the tooling for me to press myself is $400. I really need to get on that whole winning-the-lottery plan. :):rolleyes:
 
Finished the 20” and gave it to my little guy..he loves it!

Building a 20” is way harder than a full size! Big thanks to Tyler at Big Adventure Bikes for the parts!
 

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Very cool. It looks like you did a “preservation” style resto on it? That is not meant as anything more than a compliment. Back in the early 90s I restored my ‘50 green Phantom and had considered having it repainted; back then I thought “shiny” was better (I was in my 20s). A friend talked me out of it, and I left the paint original (with some minor touch ups). On a historically significant bike I’d think that’s even more important.
 
Very cool. It looks like you did a “preservation” style resto on it? That is not meant as anything more than a compliment. Back in the early 90s I restored my ‘50 green Phantom and had considered having it repainted; back then I thought “shiny” was better (I was in my 20s). A friend talked me out of it, and I left the paint original (with some minor touch ups). On a historically significant bike I’d think that’s even more important.
Yes no chrome or paint was redone. Replaced missing parts with accurate replicas. It’s only original once!

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Hello everyone! Long time reader, first time poster. I found a 1952 Schwinn on Craigslist that looks to be the right body shape, all the right curves and the proper rear wheel configuration. There's plenty to add/replace, but is this something I should pull the trigger on? It's 200$, but I have to go out of state to fetch it, so I thought I'd get some feedback first.

Thank you so much for your help in advance. I'm a big fan of everyone's beautiful work. I can't wait to get started (possibly)!
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Hello everyone! Long time reader, first time poster. I found a 1952 Schwinn on Craigslist that looks to be the right body shape, all the right curves and the proper rear wheel configuration. There's plenty to add/replace, but is this something I should pull the trigger on? It's 200$, but I have to go out of state to fetch it, so I thought I'd get some feedback first.

Thank you so much for your help in advance. I'm a big fan of everyone's beautiful work. I can't wait to get started (possibly)!
View attachment 1954232

Hello everyone! Long time reader, first time poster. I found a 1952 Schwinn on Craigslist that looks to be the right body shape, all the right curves and the proper rear wheel configuration. There's plenty to add/replace, but is this something I should pull the trigger on? It's 200$, but I have to go out of state to fetch it, so I thought I'd get some feedback first.

Thank you so much for your help in advance. I'm a big fan of everyone's beautiful work. I can't wait to get started (possibly)!
View attachment 1954232
Just my opinion, but I would wait for one with fenders. You may also be able to find one with a springer fork.
 
Just my opinion, but I would wait for one with fenders. You may also be able to find one with a springer fork.
Thank you for the advice! This is the first one I've seen locally, so I have an itchy trigger finger.

No fenders is a big downside, but I've seen them pretty abundantly online, so I feel it's something I can get separately... unless this bike isn't made to accept them.

I have seen some pics of base schwinns with springer forks, but not in the right style. Would it be easier to replace a fork than to try to retrofit one onto a bike that isn't made with one?
 
There are definitely fenders and springer forks out there. All the new ones are made in China. Although not terrible, they often have fitment issues with the vintage bikes. Original Schwinn fenders and forks can be pricey. That's why I recommended just trying to find a bike with the fenders and/or springer. It really comes down to how authentic you want the bike to look.
 
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