painting your props!

[Kommissar]

what kind of methods do you use for painting your props?
airbrush? spray paint? hand painted acrylic?

i'm curious on techniques people like to use, and odd types of paint that work well?
for example, i've found a great primer/black matte to use is barbecue high heat paint from krylon and rustoleum, it's really resistant to wear..
on that matter, when your final piece is done, what do you coat it with to give it extra life?
i've experimented with a few spray on sealants and coats, but not found many that really stand upto a conventions wear and tear.. and i'm getting tired of repainting things or touching up.

 

[G17RDY]

I mainly use spray cans & brushes, mainly because nothing i have done in recent years has needed that airbrush precision.

Although with the imminent painting of a Hot Toys ED-209 i may have to dust the old airbrush and compressor off!!!!

 

[jaakub]

I go for spray can and brush with a lot of the stuff I paint. I have used a couple spray on sealants from companies that work okay. When I was in college one of my art classes we used spray glue as a sealant on a lot of stuff. It works pretty well, it doesn't gloss over. I basically just use that on projects that I want to have a stone like texture. When it dries if you run your hand over it, it feels just like rock. I try to stay away from airbrushes, haven't mastered them yet.:lol
Jim

 

[Phelyx]

I think a lot of it is in the technique. I know a lot of folks who just glop on the spraypaint, and then it looks like.... spraypaint.

Often with props you're trying to get something made out of plastic or resin or even wood to look like metal - or some other substance. Metallic spray paints are good if you buff them a little once the paint is really, really dry.

The best method is always going to be lighter coats plus more coats - instead of one or two heavy coats. Plus you should always primer first. Multiple (light) coats of primer and then maybe some sanding and more filler if necessary, then more primer. Always light coats. You can do some superfine sanding on the primer before you paint, but remember to rag off the sanding dust. And if you're doing any sanding around the same time as you're painting, make sure you use the shop vac to clean up as much of the dust as you can so you don't get it in your wet paint.

Light coats of a good quality spray paint. Then add some details with a brush or a rag or a sponge or however you want to add your details. Get some good metallic silver paint and lightly rag it on to "scratch" the edges and surface to make it look like the metal is shining through the finish. I'll sometimes buff the paint before a couple of light coats of Krylon matte clear coat. Or gloss - depending.

Sometimes if you're making things look old or aged, you can brush on some acrylic and wipe it off so it stays down in the cracks. Try some dry brushing with various rusty colors to put some fake oxidation around bolts or seams. Less is always better than too much.

Also there's some interesting 2-part paints and finishes out there in the craft shops that are laced with metal powders. If you want ancient metals, you can paint with these, and then apply the "patina" part that will make it rust or go all green like old copper, etc...

A couple of good protective coats of Krylon clear will keep it all safe, relatively durable and looking good when you're ready to sign off on the look.

 

[TheSt.LouisKid]

Krylon paint. Few coats of primer fine sanding between each coat with Scotch Brite or 3M pads. I use Krylon clear coat to protect the paint from handling. Clear coat comes in either gloss or matte. Gloss will be dullish and/or cloudy if applied during a humid day. Unfortunately matte seems to be reformulated so it stays tacky for months. After using Krylon clear coat never wrap a prop in bubble wrap or synthetic or cotton blend fabric as the clear coat will adhere and your work is ruined. Always wrap in paper towel or 100% cotton(for example when mailing a piece, transporting it to a show, storage). Even months after application clear coat can stick to bubblewrap or synthetic blends.

 

[puffbelly]

i use all three

 

[puffbelly]

cause it depeds what im doing ,spry can for large areas, airbrush when its raining or if i want god details and hand acrylics for dry brushing and tiny,tiny details

 

[FuzzyDrawings]

I'm looking to get a final sealer on my kingsguard armor - I've got the actual painting done, but I'm looking to toss a sealer of some sort on top that will not only protect the paint job, but also give it that last little magic/sheen of polished metal. I've experimented with off the rack spray paint sealers (both gloss and semi gloss) but it just gives the paint job a cheap plasticy feel. What would be best? This is the armor I'm working with:

Also, I wouldn't want the armor to have the same level of gloss/shine all over - it is possible to sand down/roughen up the sealer to keep the beaten up look?

Thanks!

 

[Moviefreak]

I'm looking to get a final sealer on my kingsguard armor - I've got the actual painting done, but I'm looking to toss a sealer of some sort on top that will not only protect the paint job, but also give it that last little magic/sheen of polished metal. I've experimented with off the rack spray paint sealers (both gloss and semi gloss) but it just gives the paint job a cheap plasticy feel. What would be best? This is the armor I'm working with:

http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p544/FuzzyDrawings/IMG_2201_zps55289c65.jpg

Also, I wouldn't want the armor to have the same level of gloss/shine all over - it is possible to sand down/roughen up the sealer to keep the beaten up look?

Thanks!

I have seen Cap America shield builders take their shield to an automotive paint shop.
Have them hit it with high gloss clear. It will cost a little bit, but it is very glossy and very durable.

 

[bookface]

I'd go with this for your kingsguard armour http://www.sculptnouveau.com/Details.cfm?ProdID=111&category=7

And in answer to the original question, I use all three. It depends exactly what I'm doing. Always use the right tool for the job!

 

[propninja]

All of the suggestions are good. So the answer is, it depends. It depend on the material, the effect you want available time, and money. As one menber said, spray cans are faster, thought getting a good finish can be harder, airbrushes will give you a better finish but take a bit more practice. if you you use a spray can, Krylon Industrial is a safe bet, Stay away from the "regular" Krylon. It's been reformulated and takes forever to dry (at least in California). Automotive spray paints are also a good choice, b ut once again, in California those too have been reformulated and take linger to dry and harden. I'm talking days!. Lacquer is really my paint of choice but it's hard to get now. Catalyzed urethane is also a good choice but expensive. If you have an airbrush, fingernail polish works great, thins this lacquer thinner or acetone. If you want a water-based paint, try Tamyia brand, or Createx (this stuff comes in hundreds of colors). Now for thr fringe stuff, wood stain, leather dye (not necessity on leather) powdered pigments, inks, hair spray, Rub and Buff. Basically if you can get it to adhere and stay put. you can probably use it.

 

[KennyZ]

I've recently found that I can thin down acrylic and shoot it with my automotive detail gun. I tried the airbrush but it was just too small and was causing runs. My detail gun is perfect for medium sized jobs. It's a 20 dollar Harbor Freight gun I bought to do the interior of my Mustang. Turns out it's a perfect size for spraying props too.