Painting first prop, some advice

[Hiddenevil]

Hi there everyone

I've been lurking around this forum for ages and finally signed up a few days ago. Really jealous of the people here who are able to make sure amazing things. I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask for advice, so i'm sorry if i'm posting in the wrong place.

Some years ago i picked up, what i think is a Starland Tricorder IV, it's a pretty plain looking thing, but it's been chipped and lost it's decels. As i only picked it up for a few pounds, i thought i'd us this as my first step in to learning how to paint and finish models. If i do this well, i plan on buying a Nemesis phaser and trying my hand at that.

I paint warhammer models all the time and used some of the green putty filler i have, to repair some of the chipped edges on the prop. It will need sanding. And i was wonder what advice people could give me in sanding and painting oh and masking..For instance i tried painting this thing using a brush, with limited success. I would get rid of brush strokes, do you guys airbrush or use a spray can? I know some people use car paints.

Lots of questions, thanks for your time

James

 

[AbsoluteSciFi]

Airbrush is the best way to apply paint to a model of any kind, for the simple reason that it delivers paint consistantly and without strokes that might give away the scale. It also allows you to control the amount of paint. Airbrushes also make a great tool for weathering techniques. There are plenty of videos on u-tube for that. If beginner advice is what you need- try looking at some of these forums: starshipmodeler.com, or cultTVman.com. They both have some tips and techniques sections that are great for that, as well as blogs and forums too. I myself picked up a great deal on the starship site.

 

[Jedi Dade]

true true the airbrush is THE tool. But for simple things, a rattle can in the right color works perfectly well. Things like base coats of one uniform color (or two) rattle cans can be pretty economical and effective.

For something like a tricorder that is essentially a basic gray color with a few accents. A rattle can with careful brushing of details (no brush strokes so thin the paint a bit, and use a good brush) will work fine. There was a source for tricorder decals around here but I can not remember who it was. I'm sure if you seach and ask the right people on the board here you can find them.

For masking I use blue plastic tape. you can find them in a variety of widths at an auto paint supply store... usually used in pin striping a car. You can also find Tamiya masking tape which is really good stuff... actually I've been happy with all of the Tamiya supplies I've ever used...

Good Luck,
Jedi Dade

 

[AbsoluteSciFi]

For masking I use blue plastic tape. you can find them in a variety of widths at an auto paint supply store... usually used in pin striping a car. You can also find Tamiya masking tape which is really good stuff... actually I've been happy with all of the Tamiya supplies I've ever used...

Good Luck,
Jedi Dade

Actually- Blue tape is not for pin striping at all- (there is a "tape" that IS the pin stripe) Blue tape is for fine detailed masking- and is used when regular "masking tape" is not flexible enough to do the job, blue tape stretches better and has better adhesion, as well as can bend around curves better- thus the different widths, a narrower tape is more easily bent.

Sorry for the rant- I used to paint cars. Blue tape is great for masking stuff... that is what it is made for!

 

[Hiddenevil]

Well i went to the hardware store today and picked up a can of light grey paint. This after all is just a project to train myself in painting and finishing. Plus the original TNG tricorders where a light grey if i recall.

I sanded the thing down with some 160 sand paper, having used some "green" stuff to fill in the holes. Green stuff, a puddy like substance that comes in yellow and blue striped bar. I use it for my warhammer and it did a pretty good job on the tricorder.

PROBLEMS!!

Having sanded the tricorder down, i didn't not sand it down to the resin base, i simply scored (think thats the right term) the surface, ready for spraying. Making sure the nozzle was ok, i coated the lower and smaller half of the tricorder. It did not go well, the paint seemed almost diluted on the resin, taking several coat before it was thick enough to cover what was underneath. While the sides took the paint, part of the back reacted in a crazy paving pattern. Which i'm going to wait till the paint dry's, before sanding again with 160, smoothing off and applying another coat.


I feel rather silly posting here, amongst loads of ppl who are a really dab hand at making amazing props. But i truly appreciate the input and it's coz of you guys that i've decided to give this a shot.

James

 

[Arketh]

As you've encountered, proper surface prep is what everyone's going to tell you is the most important thing.

Whenever possible, sand back down to the base material. Different types of paint can have some interesting reactions when layered, and by interesting, I mean it will have to be redone.

Sand, clean, prime, sand, clean, paint, repeat the last three as necessary to get the finish you're after.

 

[Pilot]

Some types of paint do not get along together well at all. You're really better off starting over with primer and paint of the same brand, or at least of the same type (laquer, alkyd, etc.) Mixing types can cause cracking, crazing, and/or a coat that will never actually dry all the way.

To echo Arketh - priming and sanding multiple times is really the best way to get a nice smooth surface for your finish coat to adhere to. A sandable automotive primer is the perfect type of thing for this...it goes on a little thick and fills in the pinholes and small surface imperfections. Spray it on, let it dry, wet sand it, and repeat until you're satisfied with the results. Then apply the actual paint.

It takes quite a bit of patience, but the results are worth the time and effort.

 

[Spartan375]

Hey, Hiddenevil,
the most essential think is to make tests.

That means:
* test the spray to find the ideal distance
* test who the paint applies to an object of the same material of the one you want to pain.
*test the brush to find the ideal for the job.
*test the paint in the old fashioned can and decide what amount of thinner like White Spirit you have to add.

If you have to brush, buy nice brushes with the hair you will need for the job. You can make your own though, especialy if you can't find the proper one like me.

Consider as well buying an airbrush or a similar machine because even if you find someone to make you a costume spray, its expansive.


So, you want to made the tricorder from Star Trek. That is a semi-gloss paint i believe.
You can find the color you want on spray?
Can you find primer in spray as well?

Otherwise, add thinner to the paint. And i mean much thinner, until you have a liquid that is more like water and less than honey.
Then take a brush with small soft hair and pick a small amount of paint each time, only with the brush's edge.
Cover the places you don't want to paint with masking tape before you start and Good Luck !!!


P.S.
Really, sprays are the best way most of the times. Search for them.

P.S. 2
there are many, many painting techniques and tips and tricks, don;t know them, but Google has them. just type [How to Paint (add the material you want here)] or search like [How to apply can/spray/airbrush/etc paint]

 

[Hiddenevil]

Hi there

thanks for the advice, i'm not using an amazing paint to be honest..i was considering buying some automotive grey paint. As it's a lot tougher then acyrlic.

I acrylic paints to paint the thing, but i was having to mix several colours to get the right grey and i was getting streaking. So i thought buying a can of paint from the model store would be easier. As this is a fairly cheap and simple prop, i wasn't bothered if the colour was an exact match. The model itself is hardly a Master Replica product :lol

I'm going to stand it down again with some 160 paper smooth it off and buy some car primer. Then i'll give it another go, i might even look and see if there are any car paints that are a closer colour to how i remember the TNG season 1 tricorders. They where a very light grey as i recall.

As for an air brush, i might get one of these eventually. But at the moment i'm trying to built my skills up. From nothing to hopefully a mediocre, maybe even pityful level..If by fluke i do i good job on this..i'm going to attempt, a resin nemesis phaser and perhaps making some PADD's.

I have a Mark X tricorder kit i'd love painting up, had it for 3 years. But there's simply no way i will touch it. I keep meaning to ask if someone on here would be willing to take on the job. I've always wanted a Mark X, even one without the bells and whistles.

Thank you guys for the input, it's really helping and encouraging me to keep at this project. I'll post some pictures up soon..

 

[Spartan375]

My advise it to use the 160gsp to flattern all the surfaces and remove scratches.
But if you spray paint above an area sanded with 160gsp, you will have many small scratches and the result will not be smooth.
You can ass many payers of course, but you risk that one of all the layers goes wrong and its very depressing when this happens.

So, what i do is to sand with 150 grain sp, then with 600 grain and then with 1200 until a nice result has been achieved.


Here is an example:

This part was cutted from the aluminum piece shown and filled to basic shape. After 10 minutes, the shape has been done with Jeweler's files and 150gsp.

After two or three hours sanding with 1200gsp, the past looked like that.


P.S.
Buy waterproof sandpapers, they are stronger, who can sand underwater, and you can wash them and use the again.

 

[Hiddenevil]

Thanks for that advice, i give it a go..Ha back out to the hardware store, i only just came back with some grey primer!! Argh now back for some finer sand paper lol

 

[Spartan375]

I know, it is trouble, but the result pays well. :cool

Good Luck!
Work Safely!

 

[AGxM]

All good advice there.......I'm a painting virgin too. Have had a Jarvis Kroenen mask sititng looking at me for months....still not plucked up the courage to give it a go

 

[steveclaus]

This info is invaluable to me as well. Thanks for starting this thread, Hiddenevil, and thank you to everyone that took the time to reply. I'm so glad I joined the RPF. You guys and gals are the best!

 

[Hiddenevil]

UPDATE!!

Ok well i have some photo's i'll have to upload later, but i bought some grey acrylic primer and did the sand/clean/paint process several times and the tricorder is looking really damned good. I'm tempted to keep with just the primer coat. Tho i understand using car paints it useful, as they set very solid and withstand a lot more handling then normal model paints.
The other option is to buy a can of plastic coating spray, which is also mean to protect the paint from scratching.

Once this is done, my next task will be tricorder decals.

On a side note, i also started another project. I had a plastic water bottle hanging around. Which i'm painting up to look like something from a starfleet survival pack.

 

[dropshipbob]

I've painted about 90% of my prop items that are mechanical in nature with spray cans, so while an airbrush is good to have, it's not a necessity.

 

[Alric]

As you piant warhammer figures have you looked at the airbrush that they have brought out ? Its basic but fairly cheap and the paint bottle has mixing levels on for their paints which you may alreay have.

 

[masterjedi322]

James,
'Not sure if it's too late to help, but I have two TNG-era tricorder builds posted on my website. One was a resin kit, while the other was the Rodd.com kit. The painting process was nearly identical for both. You can check them out at:

SeanPallas.com | The homepage of Sean Pallas! under Props>Projects

Sean

 

[Hiddenevil]

Thanks man, those are amazing, the mark VI is the one i have i think. but mine is made of solid resin and not looking half as nice as yours. However the hand scanner if identical to the one i have here. Did that come with the kit? as i notice your tricorder body is transparent. Sorry i didn't really read the pages, just scanned the images. I love the paint work.

I'm going to buy some car paint today and begin the final stage of painting the top coat. Then i need to source some labels.

Does anyone know where i might souce some Mark VI decals from?

 

[Hiddenevil]

Well as promised, here is the first photo of the prop. When i was in the initial sand, primer, clean, sand, primer, clean stages..



And here is a later one taken, after i'd found a suitable grey car paint