Painting Bare Latex Are These Steps Correct.

joeyd

New Member
hi guys i have got a bare p1 latex costume i was going to get painted but after a cash crisis I'm going to have to paint it myself.

i have done a search on the forums and read lots of posts but just want to make sure i have got these steps right.


1, clean the latex costume with some soapy water and let it dry.

2, apply neat pros aide with airbrush to the whole latex costume. ( 2 coats )

3. paint costume with prefered colours ( will be using create paints )

4. wait till createx paints to dry

5, apply neat liquitex gloss medium ( 3 coats)

have i got this right?
 
thats right mate,but only 1 coat of pros aide needed.you could do 2nd coat after paint.only thin light coats of paint so to build up colour(not 1 heavy coat).good luck mate and show pics as you go.
 
thats right mate,but only 1 coat of pros aide needed.you could do 2nd coat after paint.only thin light coats of paint so to build up colour(not 1 heavy coat).good luck mate and show pics as you go.
thanks mate for clearing that up. can i dilute the prosaid or is neat better.

will of course put a post up when im starting with porgress pictures etc.
 
thanks mate for clearing that up. can i dilute the prosaid or is neat better.

will of course put a post up when im starting with porgress pictures etc.
i used it neat,as a little goes a long way.i used a brush and sort of scrubbed it on
 
I used one base coat as well, and didn't cut it with anything. I also mixed in a little bit with each layer of paint to be safe. So far it's held up well with 3 coats of permawet on top.

Brian
 
ok thanks guys i will use 1 coat of pros aide. i takei t you can spray it on or dab it on with a sponge.

and no mixing with the createx paints needs to be done? so i just layer each createx paint.

cant wait to start it this will be my first paint up and first use of a airbrush. i have got to do a full suit to paint so im guessing 120ml bottle of each createx paint will be enough? they do it in 60ml but not sure if this will be enough or how far it goes.

will get my paints etc ordered on monday.
 
As far as thinning down the paint, all I can add I'd I did. Reason being Is because my ab couldn't handle the paint straight it of the bottle (pigments we're too big I guess). It went on a little thinner, but gave me more even coverage. YMMV however.

Brian
 
thanks guys.

i got all my paints today and tryed to make a start on painting however im haveing problems.

for the base coat i loaded the liquitex titanium into my airbrush and its too thick as its clogging up. so i tryed adding water to dilute it down which helped but when i use it its producing water spots and also air bubbles in the paint.

i have tryed a bit of createx in the airbrush and flows fine. so only haveing problems with the liquitex as its alot thicker.

should i just brush it on?

bubble.JPG


DSCN0521.JPG
 
You know, in the future, you could always use rubber cement paints. It is cheaper than the Prosaide method, and bonds to the latex better. It also requires no separate sealer. Saves money, lasts longer, takes more abuse.
 
for FW inks, you still need a bonder, like ProsAide and a sealer, and they could crack even still. All of those various pen and airbrush inks are essentially rigid when they dry, not flexible, and have minimal adhesion properties. It would be no different than using Badger inks, Golden inks, Createx paints, and so on.
 
for FW inks, you still need a bonder, like ProsAide and a sealer, and they could crack even still. All of those various pen and airbrush inks are essentially rigid when they dry, not flexible, and have minimal adhesion properties. It would be no different than using Badger inks, Golden inks, Createx paints, and so on.

You have mentioned rubber cement in numerous threads is this the stuff you mean?

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=290780701767&index=3&nav=SEARCH&nid=97194287820

When I come to do the skin and hands I want something that is flexible and tough. I used the pros aid method on my feet and was not to impressed , however on saying that I think i was a bit frugal with the pros aid

Cheers

Sean
 
Rubber Cement paints are not something you can buy, you need to mix them yourself, using a high quality rubber cement as the base. The Elmer's stuff in the picture is alright, but the one I like best is Barge Rubber Cement TF. Comes in a teal can. I feel that the quality is better. Best Test is alright too. Then you thin with Naphtha, although in California they banned Naphtha, so I am using Industrial Coating Maintainance Thinner, and you tint with a tough of artist oil paints.

The thing you need to understand about these systems, is the rubber cement paint is going to bite into the latex, and the Prosaide is just a medical adhesive, not a rubber adhesive product, and though it is flexible, you are layering inks on top of it that are not. A lot of people here favor it because it has worked for a few, but also because there are no solvents involved.
 
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