Paintball Blade Runner Blaster with Umarex HDR 50 internals

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W1nn13

New Member
I guess I should have said, "Made available." Thanks again for all your hard work. I've been lurking on this forums for some time, and see your project is what finally convinced me to sign up to be a part of the community.

Since you're doing this Parametrically, once you have these 2 pieces ( the HDR50 and the PKD) the possibilities become almost endless. Someone (not to put all the work on you) could adapt the PKD to its little brothers, the Umarex Brodax and Elite Force H8R (BB/pellet/Airsoft versions of this marker) for those who missed out on the Airsoft PKD from several years ago.

Likewise, the bare HDR internals look a lot like Rey's blaster from the newer SW franchise, I could see adapting it to that, or to several iconic blasters, depending on fit.
Absolutely, the main reason for going parametric was to be able to easily adapt to other internals, paint ball or airsoft or - in countries where this is allowed - to create a 'wrapper' for a real firearm.
I'm currently stuck a little as the cylinder of the HDR is in the way as it sits much further forward than the original Charter Bulldog cylinder. I still haven't made a final decision if I rework everything to bring the HDR internals further back or if I pretend the HDR cylinder as 'not there'...

Will keep you posted.
 

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Don B

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Can’t believe I missed your posts until now. Great idea and execution. Took some time to learn Fusion 360 myself last year but this is way beyond my level - superb work. Will continue to follow with interest.
 

W1nn13

New Member
Can’t believe I missed your posts until now. Great idea and execution. Took some time to learn Fusion 360 myself last year but this is way beyond my level - superb work. Will continue to follow with interest.
Thanks Don, I started to learn Fusion 360 myself only a few months ago. With exception of the grip - which obviously is sculpted - I tried to understand how the parts were made/machined in the factory, i.e. the Steyr receiver and magazine housing and just transferred that into Fusion 360. That made it easier to build the individual parts.
 

CharlieBecker

New Member
Anyone interested in Making one of these for yourself once it's finished, Big5 Sports here in the US Sells the Umarex HDR50 (known here as the T4E TR50) and they often have sales. Just got one with a 20% off coupon, which I can share, but I don't know the rules here enough to know if that's against the rules. But good to know it's more widely available than I thought.
 

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CharlieBecker

New Member
If the HDR50 portion is complete, would you be interested in sharing/selling that file so others can start trying out different options? I'm curious if it can be adapted into an EE-3
 

W1nn13

New Member
If the HDR50 portion is complete, would you be interested in sharing/selling that file so others can start trying out different options? I'm curious if it can be adapted into an EE-3
If someone wants to adapt to another base weapon, I think I will share the CAD files. However, still a long way to go. I was kept up a bit in the last weeks due to work and a lumbar disc :-( but should be able to continue from next week.
 

MangyDog

Sr Member
Nice work, a tip for the grips. I found if i want to FDM print near clear stuff. PETG transparent filaments. and you print SLOW and HOT...

So 5-10mms speed no faster youll have to experiment. And 250-260c

I print in resin for that stuff now. But i had some some what okay results.

Doing it this way helps eliminate trapped bubbles. But it wont ever be crystal clear. And you might get the occasional trapped burnt plastic too.

But sand and polish and use a hot iron and some kind of metal relief pattern to do the grip texture.

Or alternatively, get a resin printer buy some transparent orange resin. Or even transparent and mix some amber resin dye into it and print that.
Thats what im going to do when i do my blaster.
 

CryptoSpectr

New Member
Wow, okay, so this is fantastic! I just recently bought a HDR 50 mostly because of its similarity to the BR Blaster (with the 2nd trigger pepper spray launcher mounted). This is exactly what I've been looking out for, for a number of years, some bright spark to clad a working pistol of some kind with the Blade Runner Blaster styling. Personally I never saw much point in investing in a prop pistol which doesn't at least fire paintballs or BBs if nothing else. I really can't wait to see pictures of the finished article, what a great little project! Stellar work W1nn13.

Another favourite of mine is the M41A Pulse Rifle from Aliens ;-D
 

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W1nn13

New Member
Nice work, a tip for the grips. I found if i want to FDM print near clear stuff. PETG transparent filaments. and you print SLOW and HOT...

So 5-10mms speed no faster youll have to experiment. And 250-260c

I print in resin for that stuff now. But i had some some what okay results.

Doing it this way helps eliminate trapped bubbles. But it wont ever be crystal clear. And you might get the occasional trapped burnt plastic too.

But sand and polish and use a hot iron and some kind of metal relief pattern to do the grip texture.

Or alternatively, get a resin printer buy some transparent orange resin. Or even transparent and mix some amber resin dye into it and print that.
Thats what im going to do when i do my blaster.
I just ordered an Anycubic Photon Mono X ;-)
 

MangyDog

Sr Member
I just ordered an Anycubic Photon Mono X ;-)
oh my thats a quick jump :p

I hope you get on with it... Get onto Reddit Any Cubic Photon Mono X group... Get all the tips you can, Ive had some trouble with it but im hoping things are slowly going in the right direction now. Most users talk about using 80% UV power but im thinking go lower. At 80 ive been getting skin forming in my resin vat from light bleeding, and i suspect on the base layers... So going lowe while will make layers take longer to cure, might fix those problems.
 

W1nn13

New Member
oh my thats a quick jump :p

I hope you get on with it... Get onto Reddit Any Cubic Photon Mono X group... Get all the tips you can, Ive had some trouble with it but im hoping things are slowly going in the right direction now. Most users talk about using 80% UV power but im thinking go lower. At 80 ive been getting skin forming in my resin vat from light bleeding, and i suspect on the base layers... So going lowe while will make layers take longer to cure, might fix those problems.
A friend of mine owns one and has done fantastic prints with all kinds of resin, so I'm confident this will work.
 

MangyDog

Sr Member
A friend of mine owns one and has done fantastic prints with all kinds of resin, so I'm confident this will work.
Oh it should work... Assuming you dont have a duff LCD panel like I have :p

Still waiting on them to replace it too... But!
assuming yours is fine, it wont just work out the box. Youll need to do several things... Firstly make sure your build plate is flat. Get a large set square or something with a true flat edge and make sure there is no curves in your build plate.
If there is get anycubic to replace the built plate. But keep the old one as a spare as you can always sand it flat.

When you know its flat you can then do the level process on the bed. Check youtube theres some guides on how best to do that.It might be a firmware thing but the mono x has sometimes been known to try to go bellow Z 0, So when leveling remember to send the Z up 1 or 2 "0.1mm" before setting zero. Seems to do the trick.

Then youll need to run a couple of calibrating prints.
This is to work out what to set your print settings to...

Setting your layer too high, youll get larger than designed parts. Loosing detail and being dimensionally inaccurate.
Too low, you can have failed prints with either layers not curing properly or more likely supports not holding on well enough and the print being partly cured in the vat after falling off.

Also get a wired strainer, to begin with youll be needing to filter your resin between every print till you got your settings just right. And youll burn through the paper filters in no time. So a reusable strainer, I printed off one on my FDM thats a funnel and designed to fit the bottles of resin i use, and has a removable strainer cup built in ...

IMG_20210125_152030.jpg

IMG_20210125_152050.jpg
IMG_20210123_234159.jpg


Also get a 5lt bottle of 99% IPA, some containers to clean in... And some general all purpose undiluted cleaner, if youre in america, Mean Green is very popular to clean resin parts with....
Some just use the detergent, but here in the UK I cant get mean green so trying various cleaners, I found I still need to first shake the parts in IPA before going into the detergent.

One very important thing. Get gloves. Nitrile gloves are the best. IPA and resin eats through vinyl and latex. But ive really struggled to get any here thanks to covid :/ Do everything you can not to get this stuff on your skin as you can end up getting some nasty allergies develop to it.
Alternatively some decent washing up gloves and reuse them as long as you can, its what im doing at the moment.
 
Last edited:

W1nn13

New Member
Oh it should work... Assuming you dont have a duff LCD panel like I have :p

Still waiting on them to replace it too... But!
assuming yours is fine, it wont just work out the box. Youll need to do several things... Firstly make sure your build plate is flat. Get a large set square or something with a true flat edge and make sure there is no curves in your build plate.
If there is get anycubic to replace the built plate. But keep the old one as a spare as you can always sand it flat.

When you know its flat you can then do the level process on the bed. Check youtube theres some guides on how best to do that.It might be a firmware thing but the mono x has sometimes been known to try to go bellow Z 0, So when leveling remember to send the Z up 1 or 2 "0.1mm" before setting zero. Seems to do the trick.

Then youll need to run a couple of calibrating prints.
This is to work out what to set your print settings to...

Setting your layer too high, youll get larger than designed parts. Loosing detail and being dimensionally inaccurate.
Too low, you can have failed prints with either layers not curing properly or more likely supports not holding on well enough and the print being partly cured in the vat after falling off.

Also get a wired strainer, to begin with youll be needing to filter your resin between every print till you got your settings just right. And youll burn through the paper filters in no time. So a reusable strainer, I printed off one on my FDM thats a funnel and designed to fit the bottles of resin i use, and has a removable strainer cup built in ...

View attachment 1432206
View attachment 1432207 View attachment 1432208

Also get a 5lt bottle of 99% IPA, some containers to clean in... And some general all purpose undiluted cleaner, if youre in america, Mean Green is very popular to clean resin parts with....
Some just use the detergent, but here in the UK I cant get mean green so trying various cleaners, I found I still need to first shake the parts in IPA before going into the detergent.

One very important thing. Get gloves. Nitrile gloves are the best. IPA and resin eats through vinyl and latex. But ive really struggled to get any here thanks to covid :/ Do everything you can not to get this stuff on your skin as you can end up getting some nasty allergies develop to it.
Alternatively some decent washing up gloves and reuse them as long as you can, its what im doing at the moment.
Thanks for your information. I am working with resins for fiberglass and carbon fiber molding since a couple of years, so should have all the equipment needed.
Will keep you posted about the results from the printer.
 

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W1nn13

New Member
A sign of life after a few weeks silence. Got my resin printer and played with different settings to properly print the grip as it is the heaviest and the only transparent part. The first image is how it came out of the printer, the second is after dipping it in clear resin. The bubbles are my fault as I dropped the part when taking it out of the resin vat :D

Will now continue with the covers and the greeblies.

20210329_060449 (2).jpg


20210329_184520 (2).jpg
 

CharlieBecker

New Member
Rear side still needs to be ground and polished to remove the marks from the supports, but other than that I call it ok for glueing together the first prototype during the Easter break.

I'm getting excited...

View attachment 1442602
Great work. What did you add to color the resin? Also, a pic of your render has made it to one of my HDR50 Facebook groups, so you may soon have a LOT more people hounding you for this. Would you like me to share with them the proper link? Or keep it a secret until you are finished and ready to sell/share?
 

W1nn13

New Member
Great work. What did you add to color the resin? Also, a pic of your render has made it to one of my HDR50 Facebook groups, so you may soon have a LOT more people hounding you for this. Would you like me to share with them the proper link? Or keep it a secret until you are finished and ready to sell/share?
The resin was colored with cheap alcohol based translucent resin dyes from a set I bought at Amazon for 15 Euros or so. A mix of "tangerine", "coffee" and "black currant" :)
Feel free to share the link, happy to get input from others.
 

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