Thanks for sharing that. On a thicker portion of plastic nonetheless. Wow.
Thinking back on my Bandai Y-Wing build, it is possible that after I primed the ship with Tamiya fine primer from a rattle can and then a base coat of eggshell, that the grime wash of thinner and flat black and brown contributed to the engine rods to crack and break. It still befuddles me because the primer and base coats had dried and cured before I attempted the wash, which shouldn't have permitted the wash to get through to the plastic. Considering they broke when applying the wash, had me thinking it was the primer and base coat that did the damage and that brush pressure just helped it snap in half. Clean breaks, but had to be re-cemented and that caused some melted styrene bumps on an area that was supposed to be smooth. Thankfully you can hide imperfections like that on Rebel ships with weathering and battle damage effects, but I am also aware that re-glued breaks in joins and other parts are never as strong as the original molded plastic.
Was my first Bandai model and the first and last time I used enamels or rattle cans on a Bandai kit.
My go-to primer on Bandai kits now is Stynlrez, and water-based acrylics. Mostly due to the fear of that kind of plastic stress happening again when using enamels and secondly: no complaints from the wife-unit about fumes.
Other kits like the Moebius Pegasus and Galactica kits I built - slopped on the rattle can primers and the grime wash thinner and encased all of them in testers dullcote and enhanced with gloss coated aztec panels from a Testors rattle can. No problems whatsoever.
Figured with the Bandai kits given the multiple colors of plastic on single sprues that it had something to do with the kind of plastic used to achieve that or way they injection mold their kits that make using lacquers and enamels a risky medium.