Nostromo Emergency Destruction System. The big build
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vaderdarth
Master Member
very nice!
SKIN JOB 66
Sr Member
Glad to hear news of this awesome project !!!
Damn, what a difficult project this proves to be... but from the photos you share here one can see it's definitely worth it... GREAT WORK once again Phil !!!
:cool
Fred
Damn, what a difficult project this proves to be... but from the photos you share here one can see it's definitely worth it... GREAT WORK once again Phil !!!
:cool
Fred
I’ve finally managed to do a bit more to the hatch over the last few weekends.
The reason for the lack of progress is that a few construction problems have been holding me back;
• Should I make the hatch as a one-off!
• Should I be taking a mould of it for future use?
• How to fit lighting (and maintain it) in something that has no access points?
In the end I worked out how to get the lighting in and that I was going to make just the one - for now. Easy!
I started by cleaning up the basic shapes and strengthening the internal joints as it’s starting to get a little heavy.
I finally realised that the only way to get to the inside was to cut away as much of the area behind the instruction panel as possible.
Was this the way they did it on the original? We’ll probably never know.
The crew back then had to contend with using neon, which is notorious for breaking with even the gentlest of knocks – I know as I’ve used it!
I’ve chosen to use Led’s which should have a very long life and will generate little or no heat when mounted on a heat sink.
When I was happy with the interior I glued the two halves together and attached the hinge box structures.
There’s another box section between the feet but I didn’t add it at this stage as it would have been too difficult to finish and paint between the structures.
Also this is where the hinge mechanism needs to go.
After adding some filler and some more rubbing down it was time to start the process of making it look like it was all made out of the same material.
To get a really perfect surface finish I’ve started to use a sprayable resin material.
The product used is called Crystic Primecoat by Scott Bader.
It was developed to coat timber patterns and moulds for the fibreglass industry.
The finished surface is extremely tough and can be polished if need be.
You add a hardener to the resin and then apply by spraying.
It’s quite similar to fibreglass resin in that you add catalyst and thin it with acetone.
You spray it in thin layers and let it dry for a few minutes between coats.
Using this method you can build up to 1.5mm of thickness at one go without it sagging or running.
I only used about four coats and that was enough to obliterate the majority of the surface imperfections.
I let it dry overnight and then sanded it smooth before adding a bit more filler and another couple of coats.
The result is a great surface finish with no hint of the different materials used underneath.
Once I was happy with the surface finish I fitted properly the remaining lightbox (in white primer) which sits underneath the overhang.
The lightbox will need to be removable and will be attached using magnets or some very small machine screws.
The three ‘padded looking’ objects around the lightbox were made from 3mm Mdf.
I’ve just realised that these will also have to be removable if I ever want to remove the lightbox.
These last two photographs are a couple of general shots.
I think it’s starting to look pretty good now that its got some colour on it.
Next task will be to wire up some lights and see if all that effort was worth it!
The reason for the lack of progress is that a few construction problems have been holding me back;
• Should I make the hatch as a one-off!
• Should I be taking a mould of it for future use?
• How to fit lighting (and maintain it) in something that has no access points?
In the end I worked out how to get the lighting in and that I was going to make just the one - for now. Easy!
I started by cleaning up the basic shapes and strengthening the internal joints as it’s starting to get a little heavy.
I finally realised that the only way to get to the inside was to cut away as much of the area behind the instruction panel as possible.
Was this the way they did it on the original? We’ll probably never know.
The crew back then had to contend with using neon, which is notorious for breaking with even the gentlest of knocks – I know as I’ve used it!
I’ve chosen to use Led’s which should have a very long life and will generate little or no heat when mounted on a heat sink.
When I was happy with the interior I glued the two halves together and attached the hinge box structures.
There’s another box section between the feet but I didn’t add it at this stage as it would have been too difficult to finish and paint between the structures.
Also this is where the hinge mechanism needs to go.
After adding some filler and some more rubbing down it was time to start the process of making it look like it was all made out of the same material.
To get a really perfect surface finish I’ve started to use a sprayable resin material.
The product used is called Crystic Primecoat by Scott Bader.
It was developed to coat timber patterns and moulds for the fibreglass industry.
The finished surface is extremely tough and can be polished if need be.
You add a hardener to the resin and then apply by spraying.
It’s quite similar to fibreglass resin in that you add catalyst and thin it with acetone.
You spray it in thin layers and let it dry for a few minutes between coats.
Using this method you can build up to 1.5mm of thickness at one go without it sagging or running.
I only used about four coats and that was enough to obliterate the majority of the surface imperfections.
I let it dry overnight and then sanded it smooth before adding a bit more filler and another couple of coats.
The result is a great surface finish with no hint of the different materials used underneath.
Once I was happy with the surface finish I fitted properly the remaining lightbox (in white primer) which sits underneath the overhang.
The lightbox will need to be removable and will be attached using magnets or some very small machine screws.
The three ‘padded looking’ objects around the lightbox were made from 3mm Mdf.
I’ve just realised that these will also have to be removable if I ever want to remove the lightbox.
These last two photographs are a couple of general shots.
I think it’s starting to look pretty good now that its got some colour on it.
Next task will be to wire up some lights and see if all that effort was worth it!
This is just SO FREAKIN COOL!!!
I love it!
I love it!
vaderdarth
Master Member
This is one of the coolest builds ever on the RPF. Nice attention to detail!!!
Wicked.
Gorgeous work!
SKIN JOB 66
Sr Member
AWESOME WORK, as always !!!
Can't wait to see it lighted with these nasty little leds...
:cool
Fred
Can't wait to see it lighted with these nasty little leds...
:cool
Fred
SKIN JOB 66
Sr Member
No prob at all Phil, it was just a (too) private joke... You know, they can be nasty and hurt your eyes if you look at them directly... at least that's what I have to explain to my kids all the time these days with all the leds used in toys and promotional keyring torches...
The Led option is a GREAT option for your Destruct System, have no doubt, I 100% agree with that !
(damn these new emoticons are pretty ugly, I preferred the former ones)
Fred
The Led option is a GREAT option for your Destruct System, have no doubt, I 100% agree with that !
(damn these new emoticons are pretty ugly, I preferred the former ones)Fred
Last edited:
retrogarde
Well-Known Member
This is just amazing! I know lots of folks would like to buy these, but I applaud your decision to simply see the one version through to completion first. It has never been successfully reproduced (especially with such attention to detail!), so keep going and know that we're all cheering you on.
Monster Dave
Sr Member
Wicked.
I'll second that!!
Checkboard
Member
From the quick look I had, it seems there are a lot of in-jokes and Easter eggs on those key graphics!
I don't suppose you are going to include a sound card with the destruct sequence alarms and instructions?
I don't suppose you are going to include a sound card with the destruct sequence alarms and instructions?
Today I managed to get a couple of more things completed on the hatch.
I started with the lighting.
As I stated earlier I’m using Led’s for their long life, high brightness and low heat generation.
Unfortunately I got so engrossed in what I was doing that I forgot to take any photographs of the process – sorry about that.
I used the 12volt, self adhesive type that comes in rolls of up to 5m.
It’s simply a case of cutting to the lengths required and sticking them to pieces of aluminium sheet which act as heat sinks.
I attached some right angle brackets and then wired the four sections together.
The wire you see in the photographs leads to the transformer. Eventually I’ll run it out the bottom of the hatch.
I’ll take some photographs of the lighting when I eventually strip it down for spraying.
Next task was to come up with some method of hinging the hatch.
As you can see from this photograph the hinges look quite rudimentary and are probably just a pair of butt hinges that you’d hang a door with.
If you look closely in the blue circle you can see a piece of chain used to hold the hatch open. Thanks to Skin Job 66 for that observation.
I decided to hinge mine from the inside edge of the two legs.
I made a simple test rig using steel brackets, Mdf and chipboard and it worked first time.
I decided to stick with the brackets for the main unit.
There appears to be some sort of cover in this area so they’ll never be seen.
It was at this stage that I realised that the vertical walls I’d fitted weren’t deep enough so I added another strip of 80mm MDF all round.
Once I finally work all this out I’m going to rebuild the box so I wasn’t worried about the joint and all the screws.
At this stage I fitted the white inner frame followed by the hatch.
As you can see the hatch and the box are completely different sizes.
I’m reasonably confident that both items are correct dimensionally.
I suspect that as you never see a shot of a neatly fitted hatch in the film that theirs didn’t fit either.
Obviously I can’t prove that so I may add some packing blocks to the rear wall to push the hatch more to the front or I’ll just have to leave it open all the time which isn’t quite as obvious.
My box is much deeper than the films as I suspect their hydraulics to make the rods move up and down went through the stage floor, whereas mine will have to live within the box.
So, box altered and hinges added, time to turn on the lights.
Unusually, it’s been a beautiful day in Manchester and the workshop was really bright even after I turned out all the lights. Fortunately the lighting stood up pretty well.
Checkerboard, there aren’t any Easter eggs on the keys that I’ve noticed and I think all the in jokes were to do with Indian mysticism.
If I can work out how to or, can find someone who can, I will certainly be including the soundtrack in the system.
I started with the lighting.
As I stated earlier I’m using Led’s for their long life, high brightness and low heat generation.
Unfortunately I got so engrossed in what I was doing that I forgot to take any photographs of the process – sorry about that.
I used the 12volt, self adhesive type that comes in rolls of up to 5m.
It’s simply a case of cutting to the lengths required and sticking them to pieces of aluminium sheet which act as heat sinks.
I attached some right angle brackets and then wired the four sections together.
The wire you see in the photographs leads to the transformer. Eventually I’ll run it out the bottom of the hatch.
I’ll take some photographs of the lighting when I eventually strip it down for spraying.
Next task was to come up with some method of hinging the hatch.
As you can see from this photograph the hinges look quite rudimentary and are probably just a pair of butt hinges that you’d hang a door with.
If you look closely in the blue circle you can see a piece of chain used to hold the hatch open. Thanks to Skin Job 66 for that observation.
I decided to hinge mine from the inside edge of the two legs.
I made a simple test rig using steel brackets, Mdf and chipboard and it worked first time.
I decided to stick with the brackets for the main unit.
There appears to be some sort of cover in this area so they’ll never be seen.
It was at this stage that I realised that the vertical walls I’d fitted weren’t deep enough so I added another strip of 80mm MDF all round.
Once I finally work all this out I’m going to rebuild the box so I wasn’t worried about the joint and all the screws.
At this stage I fitted the white inner frame followed by the hatch.
As you can see the hatch and the box are completely different sizes.
I’m reasonably confident that both items are correct dimensionally.
I suspect that as you never see a shot of a neatly fitted hatch in the film that theirs didn’t fit either.
Obviously I can’t prove that so I may add some packing blocks to the rear wall to push the hatch more to the front or I’ll just have to leave it open all the time which isn’t quite as obvious.
My box is much deeper than the films as I suspect their hydraulics to make the rods move up and down went through the stage floor, whereas mine will have to live within the box.
So, box altered and hinges added, time to turn on the lights.
Unusually, it’s been a beautiful day in Manchester and the workshop was really bright even after I turned out all the lights. Fortunately the lighting stood up pretty well.
Checkerboard, there aren’t any Easter eggs on the keys that I’ve noticed and I think all the in jokes were to do with Indian mysticism.
If I can work out how to or, can find someone who can, I will certainly be including the soundtrack in the system.
Checkboard
Member
Thanks for that. I thought that the key graphics would be an opportunity for the makers to reference previous films, as they didn't make sense in English.
... I also have to say that it is quite frightening to see a panel marked with obvious DANGER signals opened...
... I also have to say that it is quite frightening to see a panel marked with obvious DANGER signals opened...
SKIN JOB 66
Sr Member
Great update Phil, WOW, I'm very impressed once again !
I think it's even simpler than that : They used to different boxes and the same hatch.
The box used for the scenes with Ripley was the shorter of the two, and only filled with what looks like a panel from the infirmary set. (the "Destruction room", aka "Brett & Parker's room", was built in the infirmary set, they "simply" revamped it )
Then the hatch was mounted for close-ups on a taller version of the box later during production, this time filled with hydraulics and the bolts, etc...
Fred
I think it's even simpler than that : They used to different boxes and the same hatch.
The box used for the scenes with Ripley was the shorter of the two, and only filled with what looks like a panel from the infirmary set. (the "Destruction room", aka "Brett & Parker's room", was built in the infirmary set, they "simply" revamped it )
Then the hatch was mounted for close-ups on a taller version of the box later during production, this time filled with hydraulics and the bolts, etc...
Fred
