Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)
- Thread starter Taff83
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DragonGalvy
Sr Member
Lookin' good! Love to see what these look like on my HC's - haven't done any modding to them yet.
cavx
Master Member
You need to dremil (sand if you don't have a rotary tool) the letters off the back of the V2s and glue these on. The MAG is 25mm tall and the NIKE is about 18. I overlaid the clear over a factory and these look so much better.
slowfinger33
Active Member
Just need some confirmation guys:
Can I use the original stock switch from the v2's in my 9v setup?
They are waaaay smaller and more convenient than the white switches I acquired.
I think I can use them (thought I read it somewhere in the 300+ pages) but just wanted to see if they hold up fine.
Cheers!
Can I use the original stock switch from the v2's in my 9v setup?
They are waaaay smaller and more convenient than the white switches I acquired.
I think I can use them (thought I read it somewhere in the 300+ pages) but just wanted to see if they hold up fine.
Cheers!
it looks like the v2 switch is a momentary switch or button meaning that once pushed it comes back up is that Correct? If your white switch where it stays down when you push it down then use that be a the v2 doesn't look like a it stays down when you push it.
slowfinger33
Active Member
Yea you're right. I looked back to page 236 and Brad mentions it won't work with our 9v setup.
I guess what threw me off is that the original v2 switch turns on the stock V2 lights (ya know, the one's we rip out of the shoe), so I figured it would still be usable.
I'll play it safe and go with the white one.
MrSouthpaw
Sr Member
Late March is when it starts.
YoureTheDocDoc
Active Member
After a tonne of research I finally ordered a pair of V2's from who I "believe to be" Karin Chen on the 28th of Dec.
However t would appear that the link for my item has also been removed (much like #DSplayer) and the store is closed.
The tracking ref does not bring back any results either.
I am in contact with the seller who assures me everything is fine..........I'm not so sure!!!!
Will let you all know if I receive them.
However t would appear that the link for my item has also been removed (much like #DSplayer) and the store is closed.
The tracking ref does not bring back any results either.
I am in contact with the seller who assures me everything is fine..........I'm not so sure!!!!
Will let you all know if I receive them.
YoureTheDocDoc
Active Member
Thanks 
that's the seller/item I used/bought.
Hopefully they will turn up without issue and then I can start modding!!!
that's the seller/item I used/bought.Hopefully they will turn up without issue and then I can start modding!!!
DSplayer
Active Member
The silicone mold has been poured
http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=574708&d=1452169635
Can you try to make a full size heel cup and ankle bubble like cloneprops. You can ask him for a mold and how to make it.
cavx
Master Member
I will be making full sized heel cups, bubbles and these will have my lettering on them.
I had a silicone reaction, so had to throw that work all away this morning. Not happy Jan, but appears my silicone does not like my superglue.
Anyway, have a new mold curing now. But I am making these all silicone.
cavx
Master Member
So one of the new silicone molds is done. Just mixed, degassed and poured the 2nd. After these are cured, I will coat them is a spray release agent and pour the 2nd half. The release agent prevents the silicone sticking to itself (this is in part why I used polyurethane the first time.
Then I can start making rubber letters.
If I had not ruined the polyurethane casts I did earlier, I could have used them as masters to make this mold. Anyway, we live and learn. Don't use SUPERGLUE!
So the initial Heel cup will actually be a flat part based on Jewan's unfold. What I will do is -
1. Have the parts laser cut. I will get the mid-sole parts done at the same time.
2. Coat the parts with something sticky and add texture by way of either small stones or other rough grindings. I was looking at sand in a sand pit yesterday and it looked too fine for this. Will keep looking.
3. Once texture is added, mold that.
4. Then cast that.
5. Assemble to final shape and slush cast the inside to make the walls thicker and add strength.
I can either pre-coat the mold or just cast. Pre-coating adds a 2nd stage, but based on an experiment last night, should not have to let the first stage cure 100%. I left the first stage only 30min and the 2nd stage bonded extremely well.
Then I can start making rubber letters.
If I had not ruined the polyurethane casts I did earlier, I could have used them as masters to make this mold. Anyway, we live and learn. Don't use SUPERGLUE!
So the initial Heel cup will actually be a flat part based on Jewan's unfold. What I will do is -
1. Have the parts laser cut. I will get the mid-sole parts done at the same time.
2. Coat the parts with something sticky and add texture by way of either small stones or other rough grindings. I was looking at sand in a sand pit yesterday and it looked too fine for this. Will keep looking.
3. Once texture is added, mold that.
4. Then cast that.
5. Assemble to final shape and slush cast the inside to make the walls thicker and add strength.
I can either pre-coat the mold or just cast. Pre-coating adds a 2nd stage, but based on an experiment last night, should not have to let the first stage cure 100%. I left the first stage only 30min and the 2nd stage bonded extremely well.
Marty Hart
New Member
I was doing my slim toe mod and I discovered that to get the fabric unglued from the front of the shoe you can use alcohol to dissolve the glue by applying it with a cotton swab. After going over it a few times it becomes very easy.
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