Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)
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DragonGalvy
Sr Member
Looks awesome dude! Have you already repainted the midsole on those? It looks like the original to me. I found it easier repainting the midsole while the clears were off.
Gotta get a set of cavx's second release of clear soles to put on my next V2s.
These are
going to my buddy that paints shoes professionally. He did my McFetts and Footwear mags. He'll give them the special treatment.
soundswipe
New Member
Question: Has anyone tried using the "heat sink" method to try and solder wire to the EL panel pins? You put an alligator clip on the pin to help absorb some of the heat. My brother recommended the method to me but I'm concerned about testing it on the EL. Do you guys think it'll still get too hot?
soundswipe
New Member
Heat shrink and heat sinking are actually two different things, with heat sinking you using an alligator clip on the component that is heat sensitive, in this case the EL panel's terminal pins. Then when you solder onto the pin, the alligator clip actually absorbs some of the heat, protecting the sensitive panel. I tried tonight and can confirm it works!
NikWink
Well-Known Member
These look real good Brad. Taking your advice, I am currently installing my cavx soles. Pictures soon. Not sure my install looks as clean as yours though.
Sneek peek
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Vormz
Sr Member
They look perfect Brad, as usual!
Your EL panel looks really aqua on pictures where did you get it from please?
Mine looks more cyan than aqua...
cavx
Master Member
Your right, my bad. I 'sweat' the parts together so that the panel is not taking heat from direct soldering.
When it come to light driven to 100%, equal amounts of green and blue make cyan. Aqua is both a colour or light and a pigment, though darker than cyan. Aqua might be best to describe the MAG and splatters. The problem with some of this EL is that there is more blue than green, , so the light looks blue/green, not cyan. I actually measured my EL with my colorimeter and ideally we would want to see R0 G100 B100. What I saw was a massive push towards B by at least 50%.
cavx
Master Member
Just remember that the this "oxidization" isn't just a surface thing like rust on steel. So even if you are able to "bleach" the surface, the rubber is and always will be yellow.
slowfinger33
Active Member
Hey all. Mag mod noob here. Really thankful for all the contributions you all have made to this thread. Picked up a set of v2's last week, and really excited to start the mod process.
After taking a week to read all 300+ pages, I felt I was ready.
First order of business: Toe Mod
I'm a size 12, and after trying the steam method, there was way too much muffin top. Decided to try removing the toe box.
Big shout out to cavx for the vids and information he's provided on it.
Here's the result on my first shoe (took me 2 hours to try and remove the front part of the sole. SO MUCH GLUE).
The infamous Toe Box
Do you guys have any tips in regards to gluing it back?
Should I fold everything in first and glue it down? Start with edges or front of toe first?
My concern is that once I try to glue it to the sole, that it might be uneven (because of the bulk of fabric on the fold).
Cheers everyone!
After taking a week to read all 300+ pages, I felt I was ready.
First order of business: Toe Mod
I'm a size 12, and after trying the steam method, there was way too much muffin top. Decided to try removing the toe box.
Big shout out to cavx for the vids and information he's provided on it.
Here's the result on my first shoe (took me 2 hours to try and remove the front part of the sole. SO MUCH GLUE).
The infamous Toe Box
Do you guys have any tips in regards to gluing it back?
Should I fold everything in first and glue it down? Start with edges or front of toe first?
My concern is that once I try to glue it to the sole, that it might be uneven (because of the bulk of fabric on the fold).
Cheers everyone!
cavx
Master Member
So BEFORE you glue or cut anything, you need to fold the cloth back over the way it was before your removed the toe box and just note the way it sits.
If you are satisfied and are ready to glue, run a big bead around the base (essentially under where the sock liner sits and press the cloth back down. If your dry test run was good, the glue process should work as it should go back to the same shape as it did with no glue.
Stage 1 of gluing back down.
Note that you can still see the original glue line here. This is your alignment mark for BOTH dry run and glue run. Once the toes are fully glued, the rubber rim should perfectly align with this glue line.
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soundswipe
New Member
Is there any tutorial out there on how to install the button on the white collar part of the shoe? That's the last bit I'm confused by.
cavx
Master Member
I think Jedifyfe did one, just some of his videos were pulled from YouTube for what ever reason.
You would need to unpick the stitching and using a chop stick to push the button and wire up inside.
So I ran more "battery life" tests on my all EL system and I got over 24 hours from the pair of cheap Aldi 9V batteries.
Pretty crappy snap. They went from this level of brightness to almost non-visible over the run, yet the batteries still measured 6.3V this morning.
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DSplayer
Active Member
Jedifyfe said that it was from copyright infringement.
Vdirty
New Member
Sorry guys work has been taking over my life, especially around the xmas period. But dont worry as i have not lost any interest in the project. Still super keen to get this done! I will see if i can manage some time over the holidays so stay tuned
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