i have an eps and a pdf file, whomever wishes to upload it pm me your email addy
I believe Cavx said he would. Expect a PM from him.
Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)
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I believe Cavx said he would. Expect a PM from him.
The bottle had the plastic needle moulded on it, depending where you cut it decides the hole size, the loctite fabric glue i dont think is available in the uk, at least i could not find it through loctites uk product catalogue or in any shop in a 50 mile radius of trying
DL4567
Sr Member
Brad, in this series of pictures you posted a while ago of a completely modded pair, I'm just now noticing the outer laces area looks nice and "rounded" like the real shoes. On the V2's these usually look too straight and flat, giving the shoes kind of a triangular shape.
Is the nice round shape below a pleasant side effect of ironing the laces? Or is there something stuffed in there pushing it out a bit?
Is the nice round shape below a pleasant side effect of ironing the laces? Or is there something stuffed in there pushing it out a bit?
Well, there isn't anything inside pushing up but I am not sure if its a true side effect or just some shoes are more rounded than others. Hmmm...
RobertTX
Active Member
Yes a connector for the charge port was in that previous picture, but nothing was connected to it. Below you can see what the loom looks like fully connected.
You can see how the charge port has direct access to the 9 volt battery, while everything else must pass through the on/off button.
The 2 way connectors all came with my inverter/el sheet purchases. I did buy additional connectors here:
Male Female JST Connectors 2 Pin Wire 10 Pieces USA Seller | eBay
I'll be buying a new pair later this month to mod again this way. I will sell them once they are done. If anyone is interested let me know.
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Anyone with cloneprops's ankle buckles, do they affect wearing the shoes in any way, or does it not make much of a difference if you stay with the originals that come with the shoes?
No offence RobertTX, but your midsole EL could use some trimming.
RobertTX
Active Member
DL4567
Sr Member
Ahh ok. However it came to be, it looks great.
Thank you, that picture is very helpful.
cavx
Master Member
i have an eps and a pdf file, whomever wishes to upload it pm me your email addy
PM sent
Taff83
Sr Member
Can anyone tell me what thickness of plasticard (styrene) is best to use?
I'm going to do a detailed tutorial for a parallel led setup as some folk are having trouble de-soldering the leds on the current v2 boards.
Any advice would be great as i'm guessing its 1mm or 2mm thick that is needed.
I'm going to do a detailed tutorial for a parallel led setup as some folk are having trouble de-soldering the leds on the current v2 boards.
Any advice would be great as i'm guessing its 1mm or 2mm thick that is needed.
airair
Sr Member
hi
i ended up going with plain 1.5mm copper board from maplin in final.
for wiring in series, styrene is probably ok.
i think the v2 board is less than 0.75mm, less than a mm, its so thin and is pre copper boarded, but its a pain to desolder. its no wonder i screwed mine up!
i think most people most be using 1mm or 1.5mm styrene. Best would be 0.75mm styrene, but this would probably be easily burned with solder, unless you are really careful.
If you are wiring in series, its ok, because there are only 3 rows and they are easily spaced so not much solder.
If doing in parallel, theres just too much crowding, and on styrene, its a bit more difficult to do it.
I did it using some biscuit tin styrene plastic and it worked.
but what i found was the solder was just sticking out too much and it was too thick so i had to abandon it.
I eventually finally have gone with 1.5mm standard copper strip board from maplin.
because its a copper board, you can just dap a very tiny (i mean as tiny as possible) bit of solder and no need for joining up any ends since its already conducting, other than making connections for the 3 negative rows.
i did it this way, its reasonably flat, and fits in fairly well under the ankle area.
im going to go with this solution now, even in series, it would be fine also.
cavx
Master Member
Email received. I have Friday off, so should have something by then.
You can't solder the wire tape to the EL tabs unless they have the connector leads coming from the EL sheet. Also, make sure you are using the correct side of the wire tape. One side is sticky and the other side is not sticky. The current flows on the non sticky side.
airair
Sr Member
hi thanks
ive done the el to tape wire with wire glue
but i mean the end bit, the end of the tape to the wires coming from my shoe behind the buckle.
ive tried to solder to the non sticky side, doesnt seem to stick?
am i supposed to put a small hole into the copper tape, and slide the wires through, then solder?
or just place the wire ontop of the tape and drop solder onto it.
damn newbie to tape wire aint i! lol
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