Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)
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cavx
Master Member
We all know that the 2011 RD MAG has the power switch in the cuff and that is pretty cool. In the film, the lights do not "power up" until the straps are tight.
Could this be done on our replica MAGs?
HERE is a video I shot a while back with this concept in mind.
Since modding my MAGs, I have found a neat little pressure switch that is normally "open" (circuit) and becomes a "closed" (circuit) when pressure is applied. I am thinking this could be build into the Ankle Buckle (would need to cast a new custom part here that can hold a 9V battery, the 9V inverter and this switch) so when the strap is pulled tight, the switch contacts close and complete the circuit. IE the lights come on when you tighten the strap and go out as soon as you loosen the strap.
Also I have been asked about these soles being wearable, so HERE is another video for that.
Could this be done on our replica MAGs?
HERE is a video I shot a while back with this concept in mind.
Since modding my MAGs, I have found a neat little pressure switch that is normally "open" (circuit) and becomes a "closed" (circuit) when pressure is applied. I am thinking this could be build into the Ankle Buckle (would need to cast a new custom part here that can hold a 9V battery, the 9V inverter and this switch) so when the strap is pulled tight, the switch contacts close and complete the circuit. IE the lights come on when you tighten the strap and go out as soon as you loosen the strap.
Also I have been asked about these soles being wearable, so HERE is another video for that.
airair
Sr Member
airair
Sr Member
cavx
Master Member
The switch is about 8mm wide (round) and it is probably a bit larger than most would like, but I think that most of this can be recessed into a new cast part.
The red/black things in ^^ this image.
Absolutely a 2 part mold. Here is a photo of the front oval parts. I do have a photo of the back parts somewhere.
airair
Sr Member
thanks,
did you do the back parts of the clear sole in 1 single 2 part mould?
or do the sides have a seperate mold? and then you glue them on?
The switch looks great, whereabouts are you placing it? on your video you are tightening the strap, so it seems the side somewhere?
if you have any pics of it that will be great.
It should work great with all the EL panels and lights turning on after you tighten the strap.
I have a beater pair which I could try it on. Just not sure if it would stick out too much (the switch).
airair
Sr Member
https://scontent-a-hkg.xx.fbcdn.net...=6fc2d83325e9370d57685424fe5159d7&oe=547A8670
When you say its pressure sensitive, is it simply a tiny touch, or small bit of pressure on the button that will activate it?
When you say its pressure sensitive, is it simply a tiny touch, or small bit of pressure on the button that will activate it?
cavx
Master Member
Thanks Vormz. It will be better when I cast the new Ankle Buckle that can hold the switch.
My intention is to make the new Ankle Buckle that will hold a 9V Battery, the 9V Inverter Jedifyyfe linked to and the switch. The plan should be the button should press against the colth of the collar as you pull the strap tight. Based on how my shoes fit and feel, there will be good pressure.
You can't make the clear soles in a one part mold due to its shape.
If you attempted to make this as a flat part, you either fold it and lose the sharp edge or you make it 3 parts and glue it. My molds are done now, so a 1 piece cast of the complex 3D shape is possible. Also 2 part mold mean you don't have to have a 100% level bench to keep constant thickness.
It doesn't need too much, so tightening of the strap will be enough.
DragonGalvy
Sr Member
Perhaps I missed something in skimming the latest part of the thread, but what type of glue did you use to glue the new clear soles to the grey midsole? I've used a few good glues for repairing other shoes (such as selleys shoe glue) but it's a hideous brown colour and only suitable for solid rubber covering midsoles. Tarzan's Grip is a clear glue but it doesn't hold well enough. I've read that some other glues (and indeed paints) can react with the midsole foam and eat it away, so you've gotta be careful. I like what you've done with the strap switch. When I got mine (wow, 2 years ago now!!) I just used hot melt glue to position the switch that came in the shoe in a way that I could turn on the lights in the sole and side by pressing the buckle while I was wearing them. That still works, even though I never got round to lighting the strap like you did.
cavx
Master Member
I am field testing right now (will be 4 long days) where I have been wearing these from 8 in the morning until at least 9 at night. I have been walking over a variety of surfaces including bitumen, concrete, tiles and carpet. The bitumen and concrete have been wet and good grip, no slips.
Today, on day 2 of this, one of the inside edges felt as if it was lifting. So out with the repair kit - cheap super glue. This is the same glue I have used for all my sole repairs on these shoes and the same glue was used to attach those clear side parts.
I will leave them dry over night and then back into them for day 3.
Unlike those clear side parts I did earlier, the fumes from the glue did fog these up, which only helps to diffuse the LEDs. Got lots of looks (a few of disbelief) and many positive comments when I wore these out last night around the CBD.
Today, on day 2 of this, one of the inside edges felt as if it was lifting. So out with the repair kit - cheap super glue. This is the same glue I have used for all my sole repairs on these shoes and the same glue was used to attach those clear side parts.
I will leave them dry over night and then back into them for day 3.
Unlike those clear side parts I did earlier, the fumes from the glue did fog these up, which only helps to diffuse the LEDs. Got lots of looks (a few of disbelief) and many positive comments when I wore these out last night around the CBD.
cavx
Master Member
Hey MAG (V2) fans, I think I found a paint that can be sprayed right onto the mid sole of the V2s. Like the previous grey paint I found that is suitable, this is also a vinyl dye so it should not crack or peel. Unlike this previous grey which dried darker than the colour of the lid, this one dries a few shades lighter than the lid. You can see the colour here where the owner of this AT-AT driver has painted his armour to make it look closer to the screen used rig. His helmet is still close to white for comparison.
I'll post a link as to where to buy this as soon as I have it.
I'll post a link as to where to buy this as soon as I have it.
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cavx
Master Member
These were taken about 8 hours ago. So as you can see from the first image, the liquid is full of tiny bubbles. If you attempted to pour this into the mold, you end up with a bubble ridden cast and it would like soft drink. Each of the first 7 images represents about 1min time lapse under vacuum.
This is how I am able to make bubble free clear soles.
The clear parts are ready to be de-molded now, but I will wait until tomorrow evening to do this.
This is how I am able to make bubble free clear soles.
The clear parts are ready to be de-molded now, but I will wait until tomorrow evening to do this.
Skotbot2099
New Member
That looks awesome cavx!!
also I got my $209 v2s and they look just as good as the first pair I bought, starting the moding next week since I finished my first mcfly jacket and hoverboard the pictures are in my albums but I am interested in those soles and if anyone has lighted straps for sale can't find them anywhere!!!
also I got my $209 v2s and they look just as good as the first pair I bought, starting the moding next week since I finished my first mcfly jacket and hoverboard the pictures are in my albums but I am interested in those soles and if anyone has lighted straps for sale can't find them anywhere!!!
DragonGalvy
Sr Member
cavx, how'd the second set of soles turn out? Also, any news on the vinyl spray?
cavx
Master Member
Not the best as its I trapped some air and the wing things on the side did not form propetly. The tread on the base was perfect, so got that dimple issue sorted. Tomorrow I will drill out the air holes so no air can be trapped.
The grey paint is a winner. Like all vynal paints, it does not crack easily, and the colour is good. I will be ordering a few cans soon.
The grey paint is a winner. Like all vynal paints, it does not crack easily, and the colour is good. I will be ordering a few cans soon.
Do you also think magnetic switches in the strap would work? In theory the lights would turn on once you strap the velcro down. Small holes would have to be cut in the first layer of velcro on the hook and soft sides of the velcro so the magnets could touch. This is just an idea and I have no idea if it is possible or not. Wishful thinking I guess lol
Hi folks,
really impressed with all the fantastic workmanship going on, on these forums. absolutely blown away!
myself however, I'm not all that handy, so I was just wondering if anyone was still selling the pre-made light up Nike strap and if so does anyone have a link?
much appreciated.
really impressed with all the fantastic workmanship going on, on these forums. absolutely blown away!
myself however, I'm not all that handy, so I was just wondering if anyone was still selling the pre-made light up Nike strap and if so does anyone have a link?
much appreciated.
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cavx
Master Member
That could work. Might be bulky though.
If you really want to raise the bar, you incorporate an electro magnet so it does not stick until it is energized - true power lacing.
Yeah that is the main problem with the research I did on it. I can't find simple flat circle magnet switches. They're always bulky rectangles.
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