Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)

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found this little extract of information!

"Plasti Dip is available in 11 oz. Aerosol Spray and in liquid form in 7.25 oz, 14.5 oz., 22 oz., 1, 5 and 50 Gallon cans, pails and drums. Plasti Dip is also available with a UV inhibiting additive that protects both the item coated and the Plasti Dip itself from long term exposure to direct sunlight. This additive is standard in the Aerosol Spray but is only available in 1 Gallon and larger sizes of liquid."

With this in mind I think im going to buy the aerosol version of clear plastidip and spray it on the rubber sections of the shoes!

Do you know if this clear plastidip will peel off?

Plastidip is peelable according to the videos shown.

It would great to maybe respray any yellowing soles, then place something like this over them to enhibit any UV sunlight issues.
 
im going to be ginny the pig hear fam i just cant exept that crapy shinny toung lol it has to be leather or pleather going to joeannfabrics to pic out fabric
im thinking of going over original and extending to my likeing with anding foam to top of shoe probly a bit advanced at my stage but i just cant take it
ill take picks of progress in the making
what do you think about project have any of you try'd this ????
ps my other shoe toe slimming was 10 times easier than last alot alot learnd lmao
 
and to protect sole use armer hammer wipes to keep clear sole's s and ruber from discoloeing use every now and then DO NOT GET ON FABRIC
use only on the sole :)
 
it apparently can peel off but i dont think its very easy to take it off without trying to do so! I was just going to spray it on my soles before they start to yellow but after i finish my mods
 
it apparently can peel off but i dont think its very easy to take it off without trying to do so! I was just going to spray it on my soles before they start to yellow but after i finish my mods

Yes, i think it takes a certain method to actually get the plastidip off, and im pretty sure it would last a very long time when coated over the grey soles.

I'm still trying to work out which paint is likely to work best for respraying onto these v2 grey soles.

I've narrowed down to the following types:

1.) Vinyl dye spray paint. Apparently this will seep into the actual rubber according to a few sources on the web, i'll have to test this myself.

2.) Marine rubber based spray paint or brush on paint, or a Polyurethane rubber based floor paint.

3.) Using a combination of a latex water based primer and mixing it with a rubble textured spray paint and some fabric paint.

I'm sure one of these methods is likely to stick well to the rubber and provide flexibility. Even if any paint wore off the bottom, it wouldn't really matter, as the bottom wouldn't really be seen. And as it stands, a standard pair of v2 grey soles quickly get worn down underneath, especially after you've walked for a bit.

I have several of my pairs that have been worn out and about in London extensively on pretty rough surfaces and the bottom texture does get worn off rather quickly, but thats to be expected anyway.

Obviously, respraying the grey soles completely would mean the litle textured bits of the moulded rubber soles would dissapear (depending on thickness of the paint), so something like a rubbble textured paint would have to do (making it more like the screen used shoes which were just painted rather than actual texture moulded in the grey part of the soles).

As soon as I find the best solution, I will let you know my findings. I'm going to try and finish off my scratch made new uppers for the v2, and while I could leave the soles as they are, I think the grey soles need to be lighter. The v2 as they come, the shade of grey on the soles is slightly too dark in comparison to the 2011 release and the movie shoes.
 
im going to be ginny the pig hear fam i just cant exept that crapy shinny toung lol it has to be leather or pleather going to joeannfabrics to pic out fabric
im thinking of going over original and extending to my likeing with anding foam to top of shoe probly a bit advanced at my stage but i just cant take it
ill take picks of progress in the making
what do you think about project have any of you try'd this ????
ps my other shoe toe slimming was 10 times easier than last alot alot learnd lmao

Sounds good, but it might be tricky to stitch something over the existing tongue if you've already glued the toe back down.

The existing tongue is actually glued on both sides of the shoe very well.

I suppose you could slide a new piece of leatherette over the existing tongue and then stitch it a the bottom and sides before glueing the modified toe back down.

Good suggestion, I might attempt this on my next pair whilst I do the toe modification.

I agree though, it should really be leather! I don't know why they have used the shiny spandexy type fabric for the tongue, when they could have used the same material they put on the white collars!
 
you might be able to just put a 'cover' over the top part of the tongue, like an envelope over a folded letter, and then just sew along the bottom.
That way you wouldn't have to replace the whole tongue. I've been thinking of doing this for a while but havent had time to do it yet, using part of cavx's design shown below.
tongue topper.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

this paint worked okay for repainting the silver V1's, though I thought it was a little light,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=171199465731
 
Sounds good, but it might be tricky to stitch something over the existing tongue if you've already glued the toe back down.

The existing tongue is actually glued on both sides of the shoe very well.

I suppose you could slide a new piece of leatherette over the existing tongue and then stitch it a the bottom and sides before glueing the modified toe back down.

Good suggestion, I might attempt this on my next pair whilst I do the toe modification.

I agree though, it should really be leather! I don't know why they have used the shiny spandexy type fabric for the tongue, when they could have used the same material they put on the white collars!

your right airair but i was thinking on going over the existing tongue kind of like dragongalvy said but diffrent . cutting top of tongue removing foam all togther stuffing
and add all new foam to my shape and liking more movie accurate:) im not doing the sewing my wife is she likes making clothes as a mater a fact the still pick of marty you posted a couple a pages back is what im going for but maybe a bit bigger i have bin wearing shoes with giant tongues for as long as i can remember lol im a turntablist ,,,,, but the whole removing all the foam ill ask my other master LMAO she knows best she,ll probably say leave it and glue to it and just cut the seem with round foame tube out :)
 
CRAP can't be dun with toe mod dun but when the frount of shoe is opend completely different story thanks so much AIRAIR we will make the dream :)have to wait for my other 3 pair at end of month these are going to be my beaters anyway but still trying to make them as best as posable still learning but I'm kind of crazy matriculate to detail my first toe mod was kickt my butt lol got a spot of glue on side of shoe but i got it out the best i could its my ginny pig par i jump back and forth to each pairs so skill is more fresh rather than finishing whole shoe then go to the other since this is my first pair
 
can anyone tell me what the original battery that comes in the replica shoe's voltage is? It all looks very complicated in there and Im hoping that it has sufficent voltage that i dont need to change the battery as well as all the lights
 
If you are at the stage of cutting up the sole, I would be changing the battery. My wear pair died within 2 days and my display pair would only hold charge in one shoe for any time. Like the wiring, the battery is crap. Just ordered my 3rd pair.
 
light and battery are crap so is switch
but dont throw them away i found another use for them we can make hats to go with are mags wit them :) lmao
 
can anyone tell me what the original battery that comes in the replica shoe's voltage is? It all looks very complicated in there and Im hoping that it has sufficent voltage that i dont need to change the battery as well as all the lights

What are you wanting to do exactly?

are you trying to do a full modification or just light up the strap?

If you are just wanting to light up the strap, you will need a seperate switch, inverter and battery. You cannot tap into the existing battery, as its useless.

If you are doing a full modification, the battery is useless and you will either need a 9v, 3v or 3.6v/3.7v battery setup depending on how you want to power your shoes.

9v is the normal method for a full conversion, but you can also try the more complicated 3v and 3.6v/3.7v methods.

Either way, you can't really use the existing crappy battery that comes in the shoe.

For starters, its either a CR202 or similar rechargeable coin cell battery, so most likely 3v or 3.6v, i'm not sure, I've never bothered to try and take it out of the plastic its inside. It will have a finite lifespan for sure, so maybe a couple of hundred charges before it starts to die out.

It also has a custom circuit board that its wired to which powers the 2 leds in the soles and the 12 leds in the ankle bubble. As it is, the leds are very dim and not accurate in any way shape or form. The wire is seriously thin too, and will snap very easily, and thats why you see many people's shoes with leds going out and then not charging. Once the wires snap, thats it, its game over.

The momentary switch thats at the back is also prone to snapping off, so that itself is not really a suitable long term solution.
 
How easy is it to just replace the v2 battery for a more heavy duty one? Mine only last an hour or so before dying.

Well you can get to the battery with a little work.
Just lift the grey sole insert, and underneath you will see a white stitched fabric. Punch a hole through it and rip it out, underneath it is a pink cardboard type piece.

You will then see the small rectangular hollow space where the Coin Cell battery is sat inside. You may find however that the coin cell is glued down, and thats when you will start to feel pain!

You may need a flat screwdriver to try and pull it out. If you are lucky your's might not be glued down heavilly. I've had some pairs with the battery glued down like a pain, whilst other times the battery has just popped out without any force.

As for replacing this coin cell with another, if you know your elecronics and circuit boards, you may try, but like I said above, the coin cell is actually encased in a hard plastic shell which you will need to smash open somehow.

And since the coin cell is soldered to a custom circuit, you will have to check what the circuit is doing what in terms of the wiring.

Its not worth the hassle to be honest to even attempt to replace that crappy coin cell.

The coin cell is most likely 3v or 3.6v, probably a CR2032 rechargeable or something similar. They only have a finite cycle and since they have such low maH, they will only last a short period as they are powering 14 leds in total.

Coin Cells are best for watches, alarm clocks and other devices which don't suck so much power.

Even if you replace just your battery in your V2 somehow, you will still have the crappy lights which will eventually die out on you, and your shoes will still have the incorrect lighting anyway!
 
Hey guys,

Question please!!

I'm finally getting around to fully modding my 2nd pair of V2's (ughh... it's still a terrible job!!) and I've run into some trouble with the EL. I soldered the wires onto my painstakingly cut sole pieces, and now they don't light up. After doing the first one, I tested the 2nd one before soldering to make sure the inverter is working fine, and the 2nd piece lit up just fine. Soldered on the wires to the 2nd piece, and now it too doesn't work. WTF!?!?! I did it the exact same way on my first pair and had no problems whatsoever. Any idea what's going on?

Can too much heat ruin a piece of EL? I tried to be as quick as possible with the soldering on the 2nd piece for minimum heat, but as I said now both don't work. I'd hate to have to order more EL from China and have to wait 3 weeks to get it, nevermind the cost.

yxec.jpg


9v89.jpg
 
I soldered the wires onto my painstakingly cut sole pieces, and now they don't light up. After doing the first one, I tested the 2nd one before soldering to make sure the inverter is working fine, and the 2nd piece lit up just fine. Soldered on the wires to the 2nd piece, and now it too doesn't work. WTF!?!?! I did it the exact same way on my first pair and had no problems whatsoever. Any idea what's going on?

Even though people say that you can solder onto EL sheets, I have NEVER been able to do it without ruining the EL. What happens is the solder burns the inside layers of the EL, rendering it useless. That is why I use Wire Glue.
 
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