DTLSchiller
Active Member
Thanks 
Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)
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mcabrera1275
Well-Known Member
I purchased from link #1 last month. All went well with that transaction.
DTLSchiller
Active Member
Custom made by NIKE for the film.
cavx
Master Member
And the shoe I feel was responsible for the whole hi-top craze for the next few years.
Nah.... The hi-top craze was already in full motion by time the film came out. I recall being in grade school before the film came out and just how cool it was to be rocking the hi-tops. That was prior to 1985 as I started High School that year. And all through high school, hi-tops were the shoe to wear.
I think the hi-top craze that was happening might have actually influenced the film and their decision for the style of shoe to create.
Remember....the second film came out in 1989.
cavx
Master Member
NIKE did release the AIR PRESSURE the same year (1989) to compete with REEBOK's THE PUMP. The AIR PRESSURE was probably the tallest hi-top NIKE had done to date as well as being the most futuristic (not to mention most expensive). It came in a translucent case and featured a few cool things that should have remained standard on shoes. Whilst the AIR bag in the collar was limited to that run, the speed lace system, velcro ankle strap and clean toe were very cool and should have been used on other shoes.
cavx
Master Member
Yeah maybe. I was already wearing NIKE hi-tops before the film. Some AIR FORCE thing and then I got a pair of AIR PRESSURE
mcabrera1275
Well-Known Member
I have a couple of questions about the EL sheet...
1) There seems to be a clear film over the EL sheet. Do I leave this on or peel it off?
2) Are there any precautions to be aware of like shorting out the EL?
3) I saw on a Youtube video that after cutting the EL sheet, the exposed sides can result in giving electrical shocks if touched. Have any of you experienced this? And if so, can it be sealed off with some sort of electrical tape?
4) Is it better to use the connections with the prongs that are sticking out on the EL?
Thanks,
1) There seems to be a clear film over the EL sheet. Do I leave this on or peel it off?
2) Are there any precautions to be aware of like shorting out the EL?
3) I saw on a Youtube video that after cutting the EL sheet, the exposed sides can result in giving electrical shocks if touched. Have any of you experienced this? And if so, can it be sealed off with some sort of electrical tape?
4) Is it better to use the connections with the prongs that are sticking out on the EL?
Thanks,
If anyone wants a MAG plaque, let me know. I made the ones for Moviefreak and I still have the template. Can switch it up or put it on a different color of metal if you want. I have a thread in The Junkyard.
airair
Sr Member
it looks like thats an extra clear film to protect the EL sheet whilst its been posted to you.
So i think you can peel it off. Double check just to be sure.
I think you should be ok, shorting out isn't a problem i don't think, just make sure you don't touch together each end for safety.
I've cut the EL shapes out, and haven't had any shocks by touching the ends of the exposed sides. I don't think it should give a shock as far as i'm aware.
You can use either. Some prefer wireglueing onto the EL sheet, whilst I sometimes just use the Pins given.
So i think you can peel it off. Double check just to be sure.
I think you should be ok, shorting out isn't a problem i don't think, just make sure you don't touch together each end for safety.
I've cut the EL shapes out, and haven't had any shocks by touching the ends of the exposed sides. I don't think it should give a shock as far as i'm aware.
You can use either. Some prefer wireglueing onto the EL sheet, whilst I sometimes just use the Pins given.
mcabrera1275
Well-Known Member
Thanks airair! How strong is the wireglue bond? I've never worked with it before.
PropFreak1
New Member
feezle -nutz how much are they??
PropFreak1
New Member
I just want to do a quick post here through out this whole thread I have seen post after post about the batt that comes with the shoe is non removal-able due to is plastic encasement which appears to be liquid molten plastic poured into a mold around the circuit brilliant design ...UGH! ......so I thought I give it a try and let me just tell you it was a true bi*ch!! so after 3 hours a lot of patience and a awesome dremel tool success!!! .... I wish I had thought to take pics of the process...but I do have pics of the old batt I removed ...what a **** poor design...not only did I have to cut through that plastic casing avoiding clipping any of the wires of pieces of the circuit ...but once I got to the batt it was GLUED into place in addition to the metal contacts glued on also (which are super thin metal) which act as the positive and negative terminals for the batt.... then I placed a new 2032 rechargeable button cell and coated it with hot glue to hold it in place..and it worked like a champ.. but good god man what a immense pain ..it is truly easier to just rip it all out and replace it...its not impossible but a nightmare I will say that....just some FYI
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airair
Sr Member
what was the point of replacing the battery?
the whole wiring that comes with the shoe is dreadful, its a waste of time trying to change anything of the existing wiring.
the only thing its good for is to be ripped out and chucked in the garbage can.
the whole wiring that comes with the shoe is dreadful, its a waste of time trying to change anything of the existing wiring.
the only thing its good for is to be ripped out and chucked in the garbage can.
View attachment 254030View attachment 254031View attachment 254032 I just want to do a quick post here though out this whole thread I have seen post after post about the batt that comes with the shoe is non removal-able due to is plastic encasement which appears to be liquid molten plastic poured into a mold around the circuit brilliant design ...UGH! ......so I thought I give it a try and let me just tell you it was a true bi*ch!! so after 3 hours a lot of patience and a awesome dremel tool success!!! .... I wish I had thought to take pics of the process...but I do have pics of the old batt I removed ...what a **** poor design...not only did I have to cut through that plastic casing avoiding clipping any of the wires of pieces of the circuit ...but once I got to the batt it was GLUED into place in addition to the metal contacts glued on also (which are super thin metal) which act as the positive and negative terminals for the batt.... then I placed a new 2032 rechargeable button cell and coated it with hot glue to hold it in place..and it worked like a champ.. but good god man what a immense pain ..it is truly easier to just rip it all out and replace it...its not impossible but a nightmare I will say that....just some FYI
mcabrera1275
Well-Known Member
Am I doing the toe mod correctly? I tried to follow Brad's tutorial on YouTube , but wasn't able to successfully separate the upper from the sole like he was. On his, it is cleanly separated where the gray t-shirt material was not removed in any way. On mine, I wasn't able to separate it cleanly like that (see pic #2 below.) I still have t-shirt material glued into the rubber sole, as it was simply cut away from my butter knife.
Did I screw up this pair? Was I supposed to use a blowdryer first to make the glue softer or something?
Did I screw up this pair? Was I supposed to use a blowdryer first to make the glue softer or something?
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