Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)

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Re: Nike Mag V2 mod discussion and builds

unfortunately you can't get those. those stupid websites in the states don't know how to send by standard airmail which only costs $5!

so either you have to pay the extortionate postage costs, or you can do what i did, and go the 3v route.

All my pairs are powered by 3v (2 x AAA batteries) and i'll be testing out some 1.6v AAA 900mah rechargeable batteries so they will last really long!
So you can just take your rechargeable batteries out, charge them and then you're good to go.

The only downside to using AAA batteries is you can't connect a chargeport, but hey, since I couldn't find the 9v thin inverter, I had to adapt!
Hope that info helps!

Thanks for the info! In the end, I emailed them to see if they would mail via USPS, and managed to get the shipping down to $16!

And I'm also modding these mags for people, so if you are interested and are UK based, pm me.
 
Re: Nike Mag V2 mod discussion and builds

$16 is still extortionate. Those people must be a bit thick if they can't send regular airmail!



I've taken dumps with corn that look better than those.

My word. That shoe is terrible! I think that person must have been on crack!
 
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Having compared the sizes of the v2 to RD using multiple pictures and comparisons,
its clear the v2 heel cup is too small by at least an few cm.
Since the back of the soles are too high, if chopped down, then the heel cup would be too low, so i guess a scratch built heel cup is in order ala cloneprops!

The v2s because of the back of the soles being too high and front being too short, give off an uneven vibe which is very hard to rectifiy, even after all modifications.

But i'm going to give it a go to see what I can come up with.

For most people, fully modded V2s are probably good enough, but me personally, I need more accuracy!
So will invest some time into making the perfect pair movie style.
 
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For most people, fully modded V2s are probably good enough, but me personally, I need more accuracy!
So will invest some time into making the perfect pair movie style.

Yeah cool :) Will you start your own build thread?

Give sculpting them out of EVA a go as you can get a pretty neat finish. I made a start to a new set with outrigger profile and just need to get some 1.5mm ~ 3mm for the surround. Probably not the most durable, but cost effective and easy to work. I will do the clear parts from Shoe Goo once I complete my resin mold of the pyramid mat.
 
Thanks

What type of glue is best for Eva foam?

I tried hot glue last time but not really good for joining the Eva seams as it sticks out a bit.
 
The back of the V2 midsoles are actually more accurate to the movie. Are you going to have RD midsoles with movie accurate everything else? I believe the reason they edited the back of the midsole for the 2011s is that that part of the shoe would get a lot of friction when walking and wear it down a lot if it stayed like the movie version. More practical.
nike-mag-knockoffs-1989-vs-2011-mag.jpg-124831d1351949538
 
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Thanks

What type of glue is best for Eva foam?

I tried hot glue last time but not really good for joining the Eva seams as it sticks out a bit.

Super glue. I used it with my BTTF II jackets for the pocket, belt, and cuffs, and it's great.
 
I'm actually glad they modified a bit the 2011 mags, the 89 versions looks a little large

The back of the V2 midsoles are actually more accurate to the movie. Are you going to have RD midsoles with movie accurate everything else? I believe the reason they edited the back of the midsole for the 2011s is that that part of the shoe would get a lot of friction when walking and wear it down a lot if it stayed like the movie version. More practical.
http://www.therpf.com/attachments/f9/nike-mag-knockoffs-1989-vs-2011-mag.jpg-124831d1351949538
 
Super glue. I used it with my BTTF II jackets for the pocket, belt, and cuffs, and it's great.

+1 for that. Also if you run some masking tape on the inside of the seam (to hold it), and glue from the front, you will get a really strong bond. You can then remove the tape later if need be.
 
The back of the V2 midsoles are actually more accurate to the movie. Are you going to have RD midsoles with movie accurate everything else? I believe the reason they edited the back of the midsole for the 2011s is that that part of the shoe would get a lot of friction when walking and wear it down a lot if it stayed like the movie version. More practical.
http://www.therpf.com/attachments/f9/nike-mag-knockoffs-1989-vs-2011-mag.jpg-124831d1351949538

the v2s soles are too high at the back by at least 1cm and still not accurate. Add to that the heel cup which is too small in height by at least 1.5cm.
If you drop the height of the v2 soles at the back, the heel cup becomes too low, it needs to be made bigger, so thats another issue in itself!

I've looked at numerous pictures from all angles and the v2s are still not same as the movie versions.

There is not much difference between the RD version and 89 movie shoe back sole height.
Its actually the clear soles which are slightly different towards the back edge of the soles. The RD version goes much closer to the back edge of the soles than the 89 movie version.

The toecap height on the movie version is also maybe slightly bigger by a few mm.

The actual heel cup on the RD version is also different to the 89 movie version. The RD version seems to have a bigger "arse" lol, it sort of droops down more.

Another difference is the square section of the uppers thats level to the bottom line of the triangle cutout, on the movie version its straighter, while the RD version is slanted.

Trust me, ive studied these things inside out !

- - - Updated - - -

I used for my cloneprops 3M spray mount.hot glue deform EVA sheets.

how many seams did you have in your eva foam?

one for the back and one for the side?
 
So air air, are you going to sculpt, mold and then cast your parts in rubber? Making these from foam is not going to be durable OR accurate. Also are you going for RD accuracy or original prop accuracy?
 
I would like to aim for movie accuracy.

For the foam bits I meant just the uppers same like cloneprops did.

Will definitely cast everything else in rubber!

Even though it is sodding expensive!
 
If you're going for movie accuracy, using EVA foam for the uppers wouldn't be the way to go. Open cell upholstery foam is what they used. Maybe if you wanted to have the shoes keep some shape, you could still use upholstery foam with a very thin layer of EVA. And also maybe poke small holes all over the EVA so there is more air flow. It gets pretty hot with solid foam.
 
I would like to aim for movie accuracy.

For the foam bits I meant just the uppers same like cloneprops did.

Will definitely cast everything else in rubber!

Even though it is sodding expensive!

This is going to rock :)
 
i was wondering if anyone knows what this problem could be?

ive just soldered another set of electronics, but for some reason, on every 4th click of the on off switch, the lights don't come on?

this is everything soldered together, leds, el lights.

weird thing happening, i'm not sure what it is?
could it be a faulty switch? or something else?
 
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