Nike MAG replicas (V2 and V3 only)

Another sole piece, by far the most complicated part as far as molding it. (The edges need to be cleaned up a little from the mold still) Will probably glue the new soles on soon.

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Another sole piece, by far the most complicated part as far as molding it. (The edges need to be cleaned up a little from the mold still) Will probably glue the new soles on soon.

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Duuuuuddddeeee! You are a machine. I'm so tempted to take my outsoles off before I wear them any more and mold them so I can always make replacements as they wear down, but I could never match the quality you're pumping out. If you ever make Size 8's, you've got a customer!

Keep up the awesome work. Any chance we could see the pieces you've already cast together just so we can continue to appreciate their beauty? :lol

I'm drooling over here.

-Nick
 
Another sole piece, by far the most complicated part as far as molding it. (The edges need to be cleaned up a little from the mold still) Will probably glue the new soles on soon.

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That is looking good.

Is that smooth section on the underside where it is overlapped by the pyramid mat underneath the shoe? Did you do an open back mold here or 2 part here?

Note the tail of the wing is no where as long as the V2 part, so this is less likely to give the same grief due to splits or tears where it folds around.

If this is a one part mold, the only way to completely eliminate that slight rough edges along the top is to slightly overfill the mold (or add a slight tilt) and create a flash edges that can be cut back. The problem with doing that is that it makes the part slightly thicker and it might not fit back into the recess of the shoe as neatly as the level filled part.
 
Thanks guys. Yes the pyramid overlaps this part. This part was a 2 part mold. I wanted to be able to control the thickness and finish a bit more. Didn't feel I would be able to replicate it well enough with a single part mold.
 
What is the "friends and family" shoe ?
If this helps a "Family and Friends" shoe is basically a shoe from any company, it's where the shoe is either still in development or in testing phase or in the final product stage, where limited quantiesof shoe were made during that phase so for example if Michael Jordan was releasing a new pair of shoe he would get a handful of shoes that are at the testing/final product stage and hand some out to family and friends that is why many "family and friends" shoes are # so and so out of so and so.
 
There is a video of a guy doing a review on the "friends and family" pair and he said that the left shoe is US6 and the right is a US7. Because the left shoe is supposed to the a true 1:1 replica of the shoes MJF wore in the film, it is possible that he actually wore US6.

I'm only one inch taller than MJF and I wear a size 8 normal shoe. And I don't have big feet compared to my body size. So unless he has baby feet or they made the shoes too small for him, I doubt he wore a size 6 in the movie.
 
Thanks guys. Yes the pyramid overlaps this part. This part was a 2 part mold. I wanted to be able to control the thickness and finish a bit more. Didn't feel I would be able to replicate it well enough with a single part mold.

Are you able to take a photo of this over the EL to see how it looks when back lit?

So for everyone else, surface finish of the master part pending, the inside of a 2 part mold can be as smooth as glass. If the part is produced bubble free, there is no reason why the part will not be "water clear" like the part I did using an open back mold.
 
I am about to charge a pair. how long do they take to charge? Will they brake if I leave the charger in? as in, can they overcharge?
 
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Finally got got this shirt I've been wanting for years now that I finally got a pair of mags! Got it from ilthy.com in case anyone wanted it to match theirs
 
Please give @davidjones888 the recipe :) !

Add clear blue polyurethane tint to Part B of the two part mix. It is not rocket science. It is simply visible light filtering. The effect is no different to why a swimming pool looks blue when full even if the pool walls (tiles etc) are white. Blue filters out the red end of the spectrum.
 
Add clear blue polyurethane tint to Part B of the two part mix. It is not rocket science. It is simply visible light filtering. The effect is no different to why a swimming pool looks blue when full even if the pool walls (tiles etc) are white. Blue filters out the red end of the spectrum.

Actually, I (and all of us I guess) don't want them to turn yellow again. Maybe it's a simple choice of material for the clear rubber... Like yours, they're still perfectly clear!
That's why I'm waiting to purchase the V3s. I don't want to remove the soles again and glue back new ones, this is not easy and I'd prefer a factory finish and sealing!
 
Actually, I (and all of us I guess) don't want them to turn yellow again. Maybe it's a simple choice of material for the clear rubber... Like yours, they're still perfectly clear!
That's why I'm waiting to purchase the V3s. I don't want to remove the soles again and glue back new ones, this is not easy and I'd prefer a factory finish and sealing!

My guess is that they are using a clear flexible polyurethane. Manufacture pending, the quality of the "clear" will vary. If I compare the clarity of the different products I use, there are different levels of clear. The flexible polyurethane I have is the clearest, but also the most expensive product in my stash. The cheapest product I have (rigid, not flexible) looks water clear from the front, but is slightly yellow on the cross-section.

All can be made clearer by adding a very small amount of clear blue to filter the red.
 
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