Nike Mag Replica V3 Modding/Customization/Power Laces

Gosh after seeing those apart, its hard to see how they come up with a $720 price tag looks like they are probably $30 to make lol...and I love it how they kept saying they were going to release a power-lace shoe for more of the "general public" yet they only release them in a handful of stores...way to go Nike.

I know.... I guess I shouldn't be surprised. I am little disappointed now that I see the actual mechanism. Don't get me wrong, a self-lacing shoe is cool and Nike made something that will hopefully hold up. That being said, that is a pretty basic system that could be prone to the gears breaking inside the mechanism (I could be wrong though and maybe they will hold up the lifetime of the shoe).

I was hoping to be able to purchase a pair at some point, however, this is Nike, and their most popular and innovative products are usually unattainable by the general public. They obviously market that way for a purpose (which alienates its customers), but also builds hype for their products.
 
Yeah $720 is a bit steep for these shoes. I believe I heard there would be a wider release after the first of the year.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

I keep seeing releases for December 20th, but still only limited stores. I just want a metallic pair already haha. Their "lace engine" does look like something we could fit in the mags fairly easily though. And probably easily cast and duplicate them. Davids mags + Hyperadapts + $1200 Self Lacing Mags?? I am getting tempted here lol I bet when the Chinese sellers start selling the self lacing mags they'll be at least that amount anyways.
 
Oh dear, that is one disappointing shoe. I have a bit of a disconnect with them though. I believe they have served Nike's purposes, and our mistake might be in assuming Nike's purposes are the same as ours. Nike has literally hundreds of millions of dollars, an army of paid employees, and is an attractive company to work for so one must assume they have some sharp minds on their payroll. Andddddd, they put this out. I have two guesses as to the real purpose of Nike's efforts:

1. Nike is selling advertising with the hyperadapt shoe. They couldn't care less about making a power lace shoe. They are only in it because it gets lots of people talking about their products. The market is buzzing about Nike, so people gravitate towards buying Nike products because everyone is talking about Nike. I believe this is the bandwagon approach to marketing.

2. Warning, this option is probably hoping for the sake of holding out hope. Nike is deliberately dumb-ing down the technology so that they can make revisions and sell old technology and new technology as the model progresses. This would not be too different than Apple selling attractively packaged slightly outdated electronics. It is absolutely the case where Apple offers less in the hardware specifications than what PC competitors make available for cheaper.

There may be a glaring problem with #2, because a limited release and a stupid price tag doesn't exactly support the premise that Nike is trying to sell shoes. Unless Nike were to come over the top with a flood of pairs, it really doesn't logically follow they are implementing planned obsolescence.

If Nike wanted to innovate, they could have some ground breaking stuff. They have far too many resources at their disposal than reflected by their design. I have said it before, Nike's mechanism is whinier than any ex-girlfriend. The future is not a rotatory motor. The future is not $700 shoes (all inflation jokes aside). I am going to double down on #1, and this is Nike trying to sell its other products.

- - - Updated - - -

I keep seeing releases for December 20th, but still only limited stores. I just want a metallic pair already haha. Their "lace engine" does look like something we could fit in the mags fairly easily though. And probably easily cast and duplicate them. Davids mags + Hyperadapts + $1200 Self Lacing Mags?? I am getting tempted here lol I bet when the Chinese sellers start selling the self lacing mags they'll be at least that amount anyways.

I think you would be disappointed.
 
Does anyone remember ADIDAS's "computer shoe? Probably late 1990's or very early 2000s. The computer measured and adjusted their "torsion" bar technology of the time and also had adjustments for something in the heel. I remember seeing these shoes in high end retail for $500 and thinking how bulky it looked for a runner. When I look at the HyperAdapt, I think that looks quite chunky for a runner. If you want to capture the imagination of the seller on "future shoe", it needs to look cool, not something found in an old people's home.

An updated version of these would be better than the black and white grandpa shoe.

Nike_basketball_sneakers_2.jpg
 
Last edited:
Does anyone remember ADIDAS's "computer shoe? Probably late 1990's or very early 2000s. The computer measured and adjusted their "torsion" bar technology of the time and also had adjustments for something in the heel. I remember seeing these shoes in high end retail for $500 and thinking how bulky it looked for a runner. When I look at the HyperAdapt, I think that looks quite chunky for a runner. If you want to capture the imagination of the seller on "future shoe", it needs to look cool, not something found in an old people's home.

An updated version of these would be better than the black and white grandpa shoe.

http://www.luxurylaunches.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/Nike_basketball_sneakers_2.jpg

I had a pair of those hyperdunks 2015's. I believe I sold them for around 800. They were nice and all, came very close to saying screw it and wearing them.
 
So, I bought a Shore A Durometer and went to work on my V3's. There is variation in each reading (how the meter is held, how straight is the sensor depressed, where on the part is being measured, etc.). Here are my findings:

Midsole readings measure predominately between 45 and 50.

Heel cup is 60 - 65.

Ankle buckle 55-60.

Sole EL panel covers are 55-60.

Sole pyramid pattern area 50-55.

Happy modding fellas
 
Last edited:
I am very excited for these. Just a question. When you are walking with them on and your foot lifts up won't the pressure decrease and the shoe will basically turn off?
 
Last edited:
So, I bought a Shore A Durometer and went to work on my V3's. There is variation in each reading (how the meter is held, how straight is the sensor depressed, where on the part is being measured, etc.). Here are my findings:

Midsole readings measure predominately between 45 and 50.

Heel cup is 60 - 65.

Ankle buckle 55-60.

Sole EL panel covers are 60-65.

Sole pyramid pattern area 50-55.

Happy modding fellas

Very useful information. In regards to the shore hardness differences between the side wings and the base, how much would be due to thickness of the material?
 
I am very excited for these. Just a question. When you are walking with them on and your foot lifts up won't the pressure decrease and the shoe will basically turn off?


If you are posing this question to me, I would say the options are huge. You could use the pressure switch to turn on the controller board, and then set a timer in the program to turn off unless it receives another input from the pressure switch within a prescribed amount of time. Alternatively, you could set the pressure switch between the magnet connection so that for as long as they are intact the power would flow. I believe Cavx did a similar version of this with a strap light.

These are just a couple ways to accomplish it, and is a ridiculous number of other ways it could be affected too. Start with your end in mind and work backwards from it to find the solution. I wouldn't let the coding deter your thinking/options either. There are large repositories of code written for the arduino platform. Most of it is assembling what you want it to do, and then toggling the timing of it.

https://arduinocode.codeplex.com/
 
Very useful information. In regards to the shore hardness differences between the side wings and the base, how much would be due to thickness of the material?

You know I am not sure. I can give it another whirl when I get home later. If I remember correctly, I was having to press on one of the square ridges to get a full reading. The interior of the square did not allow the sensor to go all the way down because the square sidewall kept it raised. I will measure it on the backside of the sole I have removed and see if I can get a better read.

Your sole molds look baller man! I have some curing at the moment too:)


ETA - Looks like the sidewalls are 55-60 when measured from the backside of a removed sole. Still a bump up from the pyramid pattern, but not outside the realm of simple measurement error. The variation could also be explained by different batches of parts being made too.
 
Last edited:
You know I am not sure. I can give it another whirl when I get home later. If I remember correctly, I was having to press on one of the square ridges to get a full reading. The interior of the square did not allow the sensor to go all the way down because the square sidewall kept it raised. I will measure it on the backside of the sole I have removed and see if I can get a better read.

Your sole molds look baller man! I have some curing at the moment too:)


ETA - Looks like the sidewalls are 55-60 when measured from the backside of a removed sole. Still a bump up from the pyramid pattern, but not outside the realm of simple measurement error. The variation could also be explained by different batches of parts being made too.

I going to pour the bases today. I am hoping that I can pour these in 1 piece over 4 stages, so I will need a flat based container with a lid to to keep dust out. And I just found 2 :) I am sure my wife won't mind.

I do about the tips being softer. I know that then they were new, they seems way more spongy than they do now that they are bald flat in some places.

EG: On acoustic foam where you have little pyramids, the tips absorb higher frequencies and the thicker parts tend to soak up mids. If that makes any sense.
 
Built a couple of new LED boards for my V3 project shoes tonight. For the board, I used this Schmart board project board. LEDs are 5v with built in resistor.
329c91a1d0a3b691b4a3fc8cde01cc91.jpg

First thing I did was paint the board white.
2f946f317586c749961b6cf23a2d24fe.jpg

I then used the V3 board to get an idea how the LEDs needed to be lined up.
abde7b0c07324ded839a01280ed6bab2.jpg

Once I figured that out, I got to soldering. For my setup, I simply soldered all the positive legs together then all the negative together. Notice the score marks in the project board. This is because many of this boards holes are connected to each other, kinda frustrating at first before I realized this.
19b2ed15f153051f3a20d4a8530b16e8.jpg

V3 leds
e27f2bb231b18b6c322ee0922f25f7da.jpg

7d21bbb57d69c74f17d4778ccdb6ba01.jpg

My new LEDs
f39987b1e50d7dc4001d8ef6a23d1391.jpg

e6c75675863322de03c8bf5cd0e62402.jpg

Much better looking, just need to defrost that bubble next.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
Built a couple of new LED boards for my V3 project shoes tonight. For the board, I used this Schmart board project board. LEDs are 5v with built in resistor.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/329c91a1d0a3b691b4a3fc8cde01cc91.jpg
First thing I did was paint the board white.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/2f946f317586c749961b6cf23a2d24fe.jpg
I then used the V3 board to get an idea how the LEDs needed to be lined up.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/abde7b0c07324ded839a01280ed6bab2.jpg
Once I figured that out, I got to soldering. For my setup, I simply soldered all the positive legs together then all the negative together. Notice the score marks in the project board. This is because many of this boards holes are connected to each other, kinda frustrating at first before I realized this.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/19b2ed15f153051f3a20d4a8530b16e8.jpg
V3 leds
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/e27f2bb231b18b6c322ee0922f25f7da.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/7d21bbb57d69c74f17d4778ccdb6ba01.jpg
My new LEDs
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/f39987b1e50d7dc4001d8ef6a23d1391.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/e6c75675863322de03c8bf5cd0e62402.jpg
Much better looking, just need to defrost that bubble next.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
do you run everything from the tiny inverter you found ?
 
Catfish45 did you tear your V3s down or are these the $40 spares? Normally, you don't get Heel Cups is why I ask?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
cavx I purchased them along with the soles and straps from AirMagMan.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Built a couple of new LED boards for my V3 project shoes tonight. For the board, I used this Schmart board project board. LEDs are 5v with built in resistor.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/329c91a1d0a3b691b4a3fc8cde01cc91.jpg
First thing I did was paint the board white.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/2f946f317586c749961b6cf23a2d24fe.jpg
I then used the V3 board to get an idea how the LEDs needed to be lined up.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/abde7b0c07324ded839a01280ed6bab2.jpg
Once I figured that out, I got to soldering. For my setup, I simply soldered all the positive legs together then all the negative together. Notice the score marks in the project board. This is because many of this boards holes are connected to each other, kinda frustrating at first before I realized this.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/19b2ed15f153051f3a20d4a8530b16e8.jpg
V3 leds
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/e27f2bb231b18b6c322ee0922f25f7da.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/7d21bbb57d69c74f17d4778ccdb6ba01.jpg
My new LEDs
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/f39987b1e50d7dc4001d8ef6a23d1391.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161218/e6c75675863322de03c8bf5cd0e62402.jpg
Much better looking, just need to defrost that bubble next.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

That is good looking stuff right there! I had only been exposed to making your own board out of some re-purposed board material. It is cool to know they have such a thing!

What is the smallest RGB you have seen? I can only find 5mm. It would be nice to have such a board for the lace strap so that it is programmable.
 
This thread is more than 7 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top