NIKE MAG Patterns

Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

His recommendations are for more collar to counter for the width of the shoe. It looks from his drawing, that he has also drawn in more heel. I can see why he has suggested this, but from building all the physical models I have, the sole will not align with the upper if you change the length of the overall upper. The ONLY way I can see this working is to add length to the collar ONLY.

What I think you should try is once you get your V2s, you base the upper pattern's length on the soles of those. That is what the majority of people will be working with, so it seems like that will be a good idea.
 
Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

What I think you should try is once you get your V2s, you base the upper pattern's length on the soles of those. That is what the majority of people will be working with, so it seems like that will be a good idea.

From what I have seen I am betting the mid-soles on the V2s are exactly the same as the V1s. They have changed the outer-soles from solid to clear and changed the shape of that part and that seems to be it. The Heel Cup does now appear to be attached as well, but the shape of the

I don't think there will be too many people that pull their V2s apart even though it seems everyone seems keen to so. Just look at the V1 rush. Several pairs got cut down faster than long grass and how many got actually built back up? So far, one pair - mine. The other completed shoes (Calos) were MP conversions. And off course there was cloneprops and his awesome MAGs which is the only true scratch build to date.
 
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Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

Here is are examples of what I am referring to when I say about changing just the collar.

I'm not embedding them because the images are wider than 800 pixels.
 
Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

Apparently no cares about this in the MAG thread, so I am posting it here.
nike-mag-knockoffs-dscf2961.jpg-127681d1353366356

nike-mag-knockoffs-dscf2962.jpg-127682d1353366356
 
Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

Here is are examples of what I am referring to when I say about changing just the collar.

I'm not embedding them because the images are wider than 800 pixels.

Are those the 100% complete patterns?
 
Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

Are those the 100% complete patterns?
Not quite. The tongue, the strap, the cuff and the lace box are not there. This was posted as an example of how the collars can be modded, but nothing else can.
 
Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

So this is the only way I can see it will be possible to extend the collar without messing up the alignment with the shoe.
 
Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

So this is the only way I can see it will be possible to extend the collar without messing up the alignment with the shoe.

lol that looks really weird. I like the old design better.
 
Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

lol that looks really weird. I like the old design better.

You need to print and make it up before you can pass judgement because what your looking at is still a flat 2D pattern. It changes shape when joined up to form a 3D shape where some of the straight lines will become curves.

The collar is probably too large now, so somewhere between R9 and R10 might be the correct one. I won't know until I make it up. This is the ONLY way to add the width to the collar as cloneprops recommended and still keep the alignment to the sole correct. I have essentially added an inch extension which is pretty much what he sketched up. The different is, he just added it to the back and then won't align with the heel of the sole.

I still like the curved profile of R8 myself.

I really like the work .....

Thanks Mmorales :) Appreciate the positive comment :)
 
Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

OK here R11 which is half way between R9 and R10. Not only did I extend the collar, also the width across the back which increases the angles on the slope of the collar.

I'll print this out and tape it up to see how it looks.
 
Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

OK here R11 which is half way between R9 and R10. Not only did I extend the collar, also the width across the back which increases the angles on the slope of the collar.

I'll print this out and tape it up to see how it looks.

I don't think extending the collar will make it more accurate. It will just make it hang over the laces too much. I think it's a fair sacrifice to not lengthen it. We can't have something that doesn't fit the sole and having too much overhang on the collar won't look right. The old way will work just fine. Also I don't see the reason why the collar was changed to straight edges. Adding fabric won't round the corners much unless you use a thick fabric. Am I missing something?
 
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Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

I don't think extending the collar will make it more accurate. It will just make it hang over the laces too much. I think it's a fair sacrifice to not lengthen it. We can't have something that doesn't fit the sole and having too much overhang on the collar won't look right. The old way will work just fine. Also I don't see the reason why the collar was changed to straight edges. Adding fabric won't round the corners much unless you use a thick fabric. Am I missing something?

One problem the current design has is that it requires the tongue to be really wide to hide the gaps that will form once your foot is inside the shoe. Extending the collar is the ONLY way to fix this.

When I traced the initial patterns, I've used 2D images of the actual shoes. The problem with 2D images is that don't get the sense of depth, so if a straight line bends on the actual 3D model, you see it as curved line in 2D.

Also if a line of a given length bends around as the collars do, they will be seen as shorter when curved around in 2D. Therefore the size of the item is not truly represented in 2D. This is in part why cloneprops made the suggestions he did. he did his modeling in 3D.

To really nail this, I need to make it up in paper, make any mods and cuts I feel it needs, pull it apart and redraw the image in 2D again and this is pretty much how I've done it to this point except I'd missed the points cloneprops has made me aware of and would like to include those if I can.

The squarish look should round if you make this from cloth over foam. If you use mesh like I am using, not so much even if double layers are used.

I have found another large section of mesh in my stash, so will knock out a new pair based on R11 this weekend.
 
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Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

attachment.php


This might be getting out of hand :unsure
 
Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

OK here is a shoe based on the R11 pattern above [post #91] and you can see it laying flat in the image above [post #94].

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There will be an need for an R12 :unsure because the sharp angles of the front of the collar don't seem to pull out enough to keep the proper shape. I think simple 45 degree angles on the corners will fix this.

This version of the shoe is fully lined and was assembled by the following steps:

1. Cut out the main outside shell [2 pieces].

2. Stitch these parts together and turn inside out so the stitching is on the inside.

3. Attach the back of the liner [you could so this part as a single piece if you want] and stitch that over the top of the outer. Again, its seam will be on the outside. No NOT stitch the front seam yet.

4. Fold the flaps over and pull the seam out tight. If making this shoe out of cloth, now is the time to insert the foam and the foam seams could be joined - ie having a foam form that free stands like my blue foamied, but with out a sole.

5. Attach tongue to inner skin of clean toe.

6. Attach the inner sole to give the shoe its final shape.
 
Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

Here is an update.

Not happy with how the above shoe was turning out, I went back and re-worked the revision 8 pair.
So with a bit more thought, I have been able to hide the seams, add the essential linings and still keep the weight down.
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I've added the tongue and lace box (which works quite well BTW).

I still need to line the collar, add the cuff and the ankle strap and then sole the things.

Then I think I will be ready to make a proper grey/white pair.
 
Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

Ah so this is where your hiding your mag thread, you sneaky russian you!!

Excellent work Cavx!

that pic with all the mags, i have one of them it depresses me every time i see it due to the loss of money but the positive it shows the perseverance we have both gone through haha :D
 
Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

Ah so this is where your hiding your mag thread, you sneaky russian you!!

I'm sure you mean "rustralian" :cool

Excellent work Cavx!

that pic with all the mags, i have one of them it depresses me every time i see it due to the loss of money but the positive it shows the perseverance we have both gone through haha :D

Yeah I have pretty much surrendered to the idea that the V2s are really the phantom MAG and that I may never get a pair. It bothers me a bit but is the reason to now push forward with this project.

In the next few days, I will get the collars and cuffs sorted. You have already seen my progress on the clear soles :)
 
Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

Haha Rustralian, thats hilarious!

Nice, I plan on doing the cuffs next but since the snow has finally dropped all I'm doing is shredin the hills :D

The soles and strap kit is packed and ready for shipping tomorrow so you should get it all for your Christmas :p
 
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Re: Nike mag patterns with Tutorial part 1 pg 1 post 7

Awesome :)

The more of these mesh uppers I make, the more I think we need to start on the liner and cuff first.

If you do a full liner (with inner sole, which can be a slightly modded upper with two seams at the side between lace 1 and 2), you can then stitch the tonge directly to this and know your upper skin will hind the stitching.

The same goes for the cuff. If you stitch this part in (up side down and fold it up) your stitch line will not be visible at all. better still, don't make the collar extend all the way up, rather have the cuff as the liner collar and make a half piece to be attached to the outer skin later on.

This way you can sew around the hole on the cuff only and fold and glue the actual upper.

Does this make sense?
 
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