NIKE MAG Patterns

UPDATE:

Outside opened
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Side profile
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I am sewing these up now :)
 
UPDATE:

And this is where I am up to now :)

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You will notice that the front of the white cuff seems a bit short. After I stuff the cuff, add the outer skin, it should all come back into the shape it is above where it is just pinned.

Also you can see the seam that holds the cuff. On the K-MAG (both V1 and V2), this seam is visible on the outer shell. It is not visible on the RD MAG and it won't be visible on mine either.

After I stuff the cuff, I can start work on the tongue and laces.
 
Coming along nicely I think :)

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I am about half way done on the other one.
 
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UPDATE:

The 2nd cuff is done finally.

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I have made a start on the laces and once the tongues are done, can attach the outer shell.
 
It is all coming together :)

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I have made up a new tongue and false lace section.

And another side shot.

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I might have to redo the false laces though as you can see the ends here.
 
Yeah I am happy with how they have turned out so far. I hope that by the time the outer shell is sewn onto the liner, it will free stand without any foam for support.

I think I may have solved (or at least have a theory to the solution) the issue with attachment to the mid-soles. I am going to sew a vinyl cutout of the innersole to the mesh base of the upper (or could just ditch the this mesh part altogether) because my adhesion tests proved that glue will stick like the proverbial poo on a blanket to the shiny side of the vinyl where it still let go (with some pull) of the mesh alone.

The other break through is the flexible heel cup. MitasTouch asked if it were possible to make this part from a flat sheet and fold and until today, I didn't really think it could be done. Truth is, yes it can. In its flat form, it is either 2 parts stitched or an odd shape with two big slits top and bottom. Point is, it can be made from flat material and made to curve in the two directions at the same time.

Will post pics off this soon.
 
Mitastouch, A while ago you asked if it were possible to make the Heel Cup from a flat 2D pattern. At the time, I didn't know how to. Since then, I have had a think about it and came up wit this.

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This is just a quick sketch up of the pattern and will need some work. Basically, if this was sewn on the seam (which provides the curve in the vertical direction), the flaps at the sides would fold providing the curve in the horizontal direction and create the complex 3D shape the Heel Cup is. Note I made left and right parts.
 
I will post images of these made up early next week. I also have the over locker and will giving that a go over the week end. Here is hoping to an end of hand sewing :)
 
UPDATE: Have not done too much this week. I did get the tongues stitched, but I still need to run the gross grain around the edges and stuff them before I can attach them to the liners. I am also going to make up a set of the heel cups and inner soles out of the vinyl and sew those onto the uppers before attaching the soles. This should give a good contact for the glue with the synthetic parts that need to be glued in place. The vinyl heel cup should also provide extra strength to the heel of the upper.
 
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Really struggling with this. Maybe it is best not to sew up the back and inner side seam until the trim is done :unsure
 
I am actually annoyed with myself right now because this is as far as I think I can go on these. I can't complete the trim right around because I just can not access the seams from the inside the way I have done these.

I think what I need to do next time is NOT sew the back seam on the shell until I have the trim sewn right around. This will also allow me to attach the cuff and keep the seam hidden.

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Lucky I bought a heap of the grey mesh :thumbsup
 
UPDATE: I made a new upper that solved the issues above. However, what is on my mind right now is the fact that all the scratch build MAGs so far have been cloth stretched over foam. The foam is cut to the correct shape, then the cloth is stretched and takes that shape. Sounds like a plan. However, what I have found is that I needed to add more material to the shape of the collar because as I stitch the liner in and turn it inside out, the seams cause a loss of the shape and the overall size.

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Note that I made the pattern quite angular. As it turns out, the process of transforming a 2D shape into a 3D shape tends to distort straight lines, and because the top image was created off a 2D image of the 3D shape, it is impossible to know exactly that the shape is when flattened. I have not made this using this revised pattern yet, but think this will help solve a few issues I am having right now.
 
UPDATE: Further refining of the patters - will I ever finish this?

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The challenges I have had along the way include (but certainly not limited to) shrinkage due to sewing and folding, hidden seams and the joining of said seams.

So I have taken parts and broken them down into smaller parts to hopefully allow this to happen with greater success.

From the top left:

  1. Foot bridge (re-worked)
  2. Inner and outer liners that are now cut down (new)
  3. Inner collar liner (new)
  4. Tongue
  5. Heel Cup (needs further work)
  6. Cuff stuffing (re-worked)
  7. Cuff (re-worked)
  8. Outer shell (re-worked)
  9. Inner Sole
 
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