Nightvision Goggles working replica from Jurassic Park

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davidJurassic

Active Member
Holy cow that was quick. Thank you so much sir! You can certainly try em on :).

It's kinda heartwarming to see the space inside the lens housing is similar to mine when it's closed up. Looks like the bottom one is an unfinished casting or stunt pair. The switch on one side was glued on, suggesting it was a dummy. I actually think it may be made out of some form of dense foam hence the speckled paintjob as the foam shrinks over time, again suggesting stunt pair.

The harness even has same metal attachment strips from the Huntsman 930p! That was one thing I couldn't be sure of, thats great news, it's right.

Anyway, I'm geeking out. Here's an image that shows you some of my thought processes when managing space inside for mine.


eg01.jpg
 
Last edited:

cyrix9445

Active Member
Thanks again for posting your findings, I've been wanting to tackle this build for a while (a must-have prop for my Explorer 04 build) but without the lenses identified I've been holding out.

I managed to gather a few cameras and an accurate headband; I had a couple of questions.

Did you end up re-using any of the camera electronics? The gears in the lenses grind when they hit the stops (when using just a DPDT switch), not a huge issue if you ware aware of it, but it's going to bother me if someone else uses them and really grinds them. I would like to utilize the limit switches built into the lenses, but I'm trying to figure out if it would be easier to use the existing logic, or get my EE friend involved to build a board (or maybe just use an arduino).

Also I noticed that you have have built a custom piece to hold the motor on the left lens (white piece). Did you have to relocate the motor for fitment?


-Brandon

nvg_build1.jpg
 

davidJurassic

Active Member
Thanks again for posting your findings, I've been wanting to tackle this build for a while (a must-have prop for my Explorer 04 build) but without the lenses identified I've been holding out.

I managed to gather a few cameras and an accurate headband; I had a couple of questions.

Did you end up re-using any of the camera electronics? The gears in the lenses grind when they hit the stops (when using just a DPDT switch), not a huge issue if you ware aware of it, but it's going to bother me if someone else uses them and really grinds them. I would like to utilize the limit switches built into the lenses, but I'm trying to figure out if it would be easier to use the existing logic, or get my EE friend involved to build a board (or maybe just use an arduino).

Also I noticed that you have have built a custom piece to hold the motor on the left lens (white piece). Did you have to relocate the motor for fitment?


-Brandon

View attachment 762518
That was fast sourcing of the parts! Im glad you found them, did you Ebay the harness? It looks new!

Space is a premium in these goggles. When you scale up from the 3D scans you realise there is little room for boards etc. So I had to strip it down to bare essentials.

Initially I thought they preserved the camera parts as when Mazello turns on the goggles the lens caps go up like the camera. But as I looked more I think this may have been accidental pushing of the rocker switch by Mazello. Especially if you look at the refurbished pair for Jurassic World in a props behind the scenes featurette, they dont have this functionality at all. So I think even the screen used pair grind gears when fully extended.

If you look at the screen used dismantled pair above it appears the same treatment has been applied, stripping down to just the lens and motor. Thats not to say camera parts arent tucked away but I doubt there is room.

Also you can see in the film bundles of wires stuffed behind the lenses, see attached. But I wanted mine to be self contained like a real product.

So the motor fits in its default position on the right lens. But yes the left motor needed repositioning to fit. This was tricky to be honest. I made the housing out of styrene and cyanoacrylate and had to pay careful attention not to get any filed or sanded pieces styrene in the cogs as these lenses do die with minimal stress on the motor. I used 2mm styrene but had to double up thickness to give the housing strength as the motor liked to pull away from the lens. Looks like the screen used pair has a metal housing. Ive included an image of my first draft but I had to sand the styrene back to fit it all in after this.

I also had to reposition the lens sheath/tube plastic part that has the teeth on it so the new position would work. This process was trial and error and I have to admit to losing two lenses at this stage. Heartbreaking both times.

Timed motors would be great. Id be interested in chipping in to commission a duplicate board if possible?

Any more questions let me know. I think another poster document is in order for extra build info!


Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 

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cyrix9445

Active Member
That was fast sourcing of the parts! Im glad you found them, did you Ebay the harness? It looks new!

Space is a premium in these goggles. When you scale up from the 3D scans you realise there is little room for boards etc. So I had to strip it down to bare essentials.

Initially I thought they preserved the camera parts as when Mazello turns on the goggles the lens caps go up like the camera. But as I looked more I think this may have been accidental pushing of the rocker switch by Mazello. Especially if you look at the refurbished pair for Jurassic World in a props behind the scenes featurette, they dont have this functionality at all. So I think even the screen used pair grind gears when fully extended.

If you look at the screen used dismantled pair above it appears the same treatment has been applied, stripping down to just the lens and motor. Thats not to say camera parts arent tucked away but I doubt there is room.

Also you can see in the film bundles of wires stuffed behind the lenses, see attached. But I wanted mine to be self contained like a real product.

So the motor fits in its default position on the right lens. But yes the left motor needed repositioning to fit. This was tricky to be honest. I made the housing out of styrene and cyanoacrylate and had to pay careful attention not to get any filed or sanded pieces styrene in the cogs as these lenses do die with minimal stress on the motor. I used 2mm styrene but had to double up thickness to give the housing strength as the motor liked to pull away from the lens. Looks like the screen used pair has a metal housing. Ive included an image of my first draft but I had to sand the styrene back to fit it all in after this.

I also had to reposition the lens sheath/tube plastic part that has the teeth on it so the new position would work. This process was trial and error and I have to admit to losing two lenses at this stage. Heartbreaking both times.

Timed motors would be great. Id be interested in chipping in to commission a duplicate board if possible?

Any more questions let me know. I think another poster document is in order for extra build info!//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170930/ef70da2b8f5d4c63283aed867d0d3738.jpg//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170930/1474b0028b8db1a7839dcbaacf2fd8ce.jpg

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Yep! eBay, it was used but in very good shape. You weren't kidding, the translucent version with the beaded band is very rare. I found quite a few gray or white ones, but just the one correct version (and it had just listed).

I noticed the lens sleeve with the teeth, did you have to drill new holes when you rotated it? or did the existing holes line up?

Last question lol, where did you source the 2" clear flexible tubing? Every place I found online had like 50 feet minimum orders. What made you go that route vs casting some rings like Rylo's (I don't have a set of his, but they look resin cast).

A board is on the house for you sir! I really appreciate all of the help. Can't wait to see your MK2!
 

davidJurassic

Active Member
Yep! eBay, it was used but in very good shape. You weren't kidding, the translucent version with the beaded band is very rare. I found quite a few gray or white ones, but just the one correct version (and it had just listed).

I noticed the lens sleeve with the teeth, did you have to drill new holes when you rotated it? or did the existing holes line up?

Last question lol, where did you source the 2" clear flexible tubing? Every place I found online had like 50 feet minimum orders. What made you go that route vs casting some rings like Rylo's (I don't have a set of his, but they look resin cast).

A board is on the house for you sir! I really appreciate all of the help. Can't wait to see your MK2!
Maybe I can trade some tubing for the board as a thank you? It needs to be that unreinforced PVC hose as it has a rubbery quality. It grips the lens sheath, stays attached like a thick rubber band.

You can quite often wrangle samples from manufacturers if you call them up, or even on aliexpress. I must have been lucky to find a metre or so of it.

That tubing was the second hardest thing to source. Why? Because I worked out its thickness and nowhere stocked it. It was an obscure number of milimetres, 6.5mm thick I think. So after experimenting I realised this hose was the correct thickness - but only when stretched. Thats why it didnt exist as far as I can tell. Im not guaranteeing Im right, but if you scale it up from scans and screen captures, its thickness is not standard.

As for the sheath I had to superglue it in place. The sheath didnt like being biased to one side, so you cant screw it in on just one side I found. I hated the idea of gluing it but that was the only way I could get it to work. You have to imagine gluing it equidistant all the way round to work. I think I put a bit of glue on the lens body (but not too much as you dont want any going in the channels). The glue was where the screwholes would be underneath. Those (three?) adhesive points are important for it to spin properly with no catching.
 

JoeG

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I've noticed a few of the correct cameras showing up on eBay since this thread and the prices are starting to go up.
 

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davidJurassic

Active Member
Thanks guys.

If six year old me had known I would one day make a working pair of these using a 3D printer no less (how futuristic from 1993), I probably would have flipped out.
 

JoeG

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I thought this may happen - how much have you seen them going for now?
The first couple of auctions I saw after reading this thread ended between $20 and $30. The latest one has 9 bids and is up to $79 with 4 days left to go.
 

davidJurassic

Active Member
If only we could travel back in time and horde the Konica stock! It's ironic that this has gone for under $10 for years, it's a love/hate camera for many. Reviews are usually describing its retro charm or plain awful design. If you are at boot sales look out for this hidden gem!
 

davidJurassic

Active Member
One thing I have to add to this thread as I've had a member of the RPF raise this with me already. How the camera shutters work.

As I explain in the video the props department at Universal made pairs Joe Mazello could see through and ones that were opaque for filming purposes.

I decided to go with a pair that was see through. From close study of the screen used pairs, they removed the lens and shutter mechanism so this could be achieved. Only problem was when I dismantled the Konica AiBorg - some of the actual screws were fused with age and I couldn't dismantle the body of the lens to remove the shutter mechanism and glass lenses.

So I left the lenses in for mine, as it didn't detract from the look. But this meant the shutter had to be left open to make the lenses appear see through. How did I do this? Before dismantling I left the battery in but opened the battery cover. While holding the battery in I turned the camera on and set it to rapid shoot mode in the options, then while it was taking pictures, I removed the battery. After a few tries the shutter was left open and I continued to dismantle the camera.
 

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cyrix9445

Active Member
I've acquired most of my parts and I figured I would share some links for purchase.


DPDT Switch 7205J1ZQE2 (lesnes)

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK-Components/7205J1ZQE2/?qs=oIfnSaRkEUkRYtf5DwVNiw==

Similar 7205 switches can be found on eBay for cheaper, but I couldn't find any with the correct terminations/mount.



SPDT Switch 7101J1ZQE2 (power)

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK-Components/7101J1ZQE2/?qs=4EnmSMTL3HNmzfJxI6BJLQ==

or eBay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/C-K-7101-ON-ON-Mini-Rocker-SPDT-Lot-of-5/261108644605?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649



3mm Green LED's

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-x-LED-3mm-Pure-Green-Diffused-Ultra-Bright-Round-Top-LEDs-Light-T1-Car-Model/161010848624?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

These are nice and bright, and truly green. Some of the cheapo ones are a yellow-green and not very bright.



5mm LED Holder

https://www.amazon.com/Aoyoho-Plastic-Holder-Mounting-Holders/dp/B01GMZTL1K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509834289&sr=8-3&keywords=5mm+led+holder&dpID=51pDBUpU9FL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

You can also order on eBay from China for like a dollar, but shipping will take a few weeks.



2" Clear PVC Tubing

https://www.hoseworld.com/2-51mm-i-d-x-62mm-o-d-clear-unreinforced-pvc-tubing-cup-51-62.html

UK shipping, you'll have to contact them for a shipping quote to the US.
 

davidJurassic

Active Member
Thanks for those Cyrix - very helpful for builders. A friend on twitter liked the name I gave to fellow goggle builders - 'gogglesmiths'. Or goat finders.

I think I got my tubing from 'hose world' too. Be interested to see how those LEDs look on camera. I'm considering upping to 6V LEDs as they aren't very bright on mine. The reason why I went with 3V is that I heard from the folks that made the goggles they used low voltage LEDs.

I'm looking at making a few adjustments to mine, nothing major, just tweaks to improve performance. When I do I'll shoot a video showing the innards, might help some fellow gogglesmiths.
 

Part Time Hero

New Member
Here's another shot of the Islands of Adventure goggles after they were moved into the Discovery Center. Haven't seen them in a few years now.

They look to be casts of the originals, but as one solid piece, lens included. I'm surprised they actually have accurate headgear! I suppose it does say Huntsman on the band, so perhaps it was easier to track down. They must have struggled with the switches!

100_0854.JPG

On a side, the screen accurate headgear is the Huntsman K117. I've seen the white nylon pop up on versions of the 951p and 411p as well as the 930p. Problem is Huntsman/Jackson Safety continued selling these masks with the updated K117A Headgear, which I assume fixed the ratchet issue, but lacks the correct sweatband and differs in a few other areas. Most sellers on eBay are using stock photos so it's almost impossible to tell which headgear the helmet has on it.

I think I've found a wholesaler who has a few of the K117 Headgear left in grey, I'm planing on ordering a couple and using them as a base until I can track down the correct one, at least they'll have pristine Sweatbands and Gearwork. Most of the ones on eBay are covered in rust and scratches. Which I supposed you would expect for 25 year old welding gear! Failing that, is there any physical difference between the grey and black straps to the white ones? Would taking a cast of an incorrect one be out of the question?
 

davidJurassic

Active Member
Here's another shot of the Islands of Adventure goggles after they were moved into the Discovery Center. Haven't seen them in a few years now.

They look to be casts of the originals, but as one solid piece, lens included. I'm surprised they actually have accurate headgear! I suppose it does say Huntsman on the band, so perhaps it was easier to track down. They must have struggled with the switches!

View attachment 774766

On a side, the screen accurate headgear is the Huntsman K117. I've seen the white nylon pop up on versions of the 951p and 411p as well as the 930p. Problem is Huntsman/Jackson Safety continued selling these masks with the updated K117A Headgear, which I assume fixed the ratchet issue, but lacks the correct sweatband and differs in a few other areas. Most sellers on eBay are using stock photos so it's almost impossible to tell which headgear the helmet has on it.

I think I've found a wholesaler who has a few of the K117 Headgear left in grey, I'm planing on ordering a couple and using them as a base until I can track down the correct one, at least they'll have pristine Sweatbands and Gearwork. Most of the ones on eBay are covered in rust and scratches. Which I supposed you would expect for 25 year old welding gear! Failing that, is there any physical difference between the grey and black straps to the white ones? Would taking a cast of an incorrect one be out of the question?
Thanks for the info! I dont see why not as long as it has the accurate beading on the sides. Also mine came with those metal brackets seen in the dismantled prop images. Then it would be a case of matching that white translucent nylon for the repros. Its like a waxy pale white.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 

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