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That was fast sourcing of the parts! Im glad you found them, did you Ebay the harness? It looks new!Thanks again for posting your findings, I've been wanting to tackle this build for a while (a must-have prop for my Explorer 04 build) but without the lenses identified I've been holding out.
I managed to gather a few cameras and an accurate headband; I had a couple of questions.
Did you end up re-using any of the camera electronics? The gears in the lenses grind when they hit the stops (when using just a DPDT switch), not a huge issue if you ware aware of it, but it's going to bother me if someone else uses them and really grinds them. I would like to utilize the limit switches built into the lenses, but I'm trying to figure out if it would be easier to use the existing logic, or get my EE friend involved to build a board (or maybe just use an arduino).
Also I noticed that you have have built a custom piece to hold the motor on the left lens (white piece). Did you have to relocate the motor for fitment?
View attachment 762518
That was fast sourcing of the parts! Im glad you found them, did you Ebay the harness? It looks new!
Space is a premium in these goggles. When you scale up from the 3D scans you realise there is little room for boards etc. So I had to strip it down to bare essentials.
Initially I thought they preserved the camera parts as when Mazello turns on the goggles the lens caps go up like the camera. But as I looked more I think this may have been accidental pushing of the rocker switch by Mazello. Especially if you look at the refurbished pair for Jurassic World in a props behind the scenes featurette, they dont have this functionality at all. So I think even the screen used pair grind gears when fully extended.
If you look at the screen used dismantled pair above it appears the same treatment has been applied, stripping down to just the lens and motor. Thats not to say camera parts arent tucked away but I doubt there is room.
Also you can see in the film bundles of wires stuffed behind the lenses, see attached. But I wanted mine to be self contained like a real product.
So the motor fits in its default position on the right lens. But yes the left motor needed repositioning to fit. This was tricky to be honest. I made the housing out of styrene and cyanoacrylate and had to pay careful attention not to get any filed or sanded pieces styrene in the cogs as these lenses do die with minimal stress on the motor. I used 2mm styrene but had to double up thickness to give the housing strength as the motor liked to pull away from the lens. Looks like the screen used pair has a metal housing. Ive included an image of my first draft but I had to sand the styrene back to fit it all in after this.
I also had to reposition the lens sheath/tube plastic part that has the teeth on it so the new position would work. This process was trial and error and I have to admit to losing two lenses at this stage. Heartbreaking both times.
Timed motors would be great. Id be interested in chipping in to commission a duplicate board if possible?
Any more questions let me know. I think another poster document is in order for extra build info!//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170930/ef70da2b8f5d4c63283aed867d0d3738.jpg//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170930/1474b0028b8db1a7839dcbaacf2fd8ce.jpg
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Maybe I can trade some tubing for the board as a thank you? It needs to be that unreinforced PVC hose as it has a rubbery quality. It grips the lens sheath, stays attached like a thick rubber band.Yep! eBay, it was used but in very good shape. You weren't kidding, the translucent version with the beaded band is very rare. I found quite a few gray or white ones, but just the one correct version (and it had just listed).
I noticed the lens sleeve with the teeth, did you have to drill new holes when you rotated it? or did the existing holes line up?
Last question lol, where did you source the 2" clear flexible tubing? Every place I found online had like 50 feet minimum orders. What made you go that route vs casting some rings like Rylo's (I don't have a set of his, but they look resin cast).
A board is on the house for you sir! I really appreciate all of the help. Can't wait to see your MK2!
Thanks for the info! I dont see why not as long as it has the accurate beading on the sides. Also mine came with those metal brackets seen in the dismantled prop images. Then it would be a case of matching that white translucent nylon for the repros. Its like a waxy pale white.Here's another shot of the Islands of Adventure goggles after they were moved into the Discovery Center. Haven't seen them in a few years now.
They look to be casts of the originals, but as one solid piece, lens included. I'm surprised they actually have accurate headgear! I suppose it does say Huntsman on the band, so perhaps it was easier to track down. They must have struggled with the switches!
View attachment 774766
On a side, the screen accurate headgear is the Huntsman K117. I've seen the white nylon pop up on versions of the 951p and 411p as well as the 930p. Problem is Huntsman/Jackson Safety continued selling these masks with the updated K117A Headgear, which I assume fixed the ratchet issue, but lacks the correct sweatband and differs in a few other areas. Most sellers on eBay are using stock photos so it's almost impossible to tell which headgear the helmet has on it.
I think I've found a wholesaler who has a few of the K117 Headgear left in grey, I'm planing on ordering a couple and using them as a base until I can track down the correct one, at least they'll have pristine Sweatbands and Gearwork. Most of the ones on eBay are covered in rust and scratches. Which I supposed you would expect for 25 year old welding gear! Failing that, is there any physical difference between the grey and black straps to the white ones? Would taking a cast of an incorrect one be out of the question?